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If you are not willing to listen to good advice, you get what you pay for. I won't tell you what to do, but in my mind, you have not even determined that you have a fan issue.

If you do in fact, have a correctly working fan, then you HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM, and that problem will not be remedied by replacing a fan which is doing what it is suppose to do. For example, if you MAP sensor is bad, you could be creating 10 psi more boost than you are suppose to. The heat from that malfunction, and many others, will create your condition.

Add to that, the Fan Clutch you are referring to, is 1000% more reliable than ANY electric fan configuration. It's your money. But get realistic, it is a fact these electric fans will only move about 30% of the air that the 21" HD fan clutch will. This is a very restrictive cooling stack. I can tell you also, there is no chance at all that you will pull 10,000 lbs on your grades, without spilling coolant, not in an otherwise stock LLY.

Also, have you scanned for OBD codes?
 

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Well... To confirm that I believe it is the fan clutch, engine temp is down to 70c (180f) from 98C(192f), I can hear the fan even at start up and driving away (sounds like a jet), and the biggest clue is this years winter frost on the inside windows isn't being cleared like it was in previous years... If that isn't evidence enough, I don't know what is, hence my inquiry here...
 

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That does describe the fan, with the usual "morning sickness", aka working correctly.

This time of year, nobody gets much above 180 without towing...so that's normal. 192 in warmer weather? Normal

So you get the same "jet engine" noise while running around empty, in your cold weather, correct? And this is even with a new fan clutch, also correct? Do we know for a fact it was replaced, or was the dealer scamming?

Now we have to figure out where the heat is coming from, because we know heat is the only thing that actuates a healthy thermo-viscous clutch.

The likely place that heat comes from is the CAC. But I asked about codes because if it is the CAC, there may be a boost, MAF or vane code that will help track the heat origin.
 

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For temp, it stays at 180 year round now, and the temp would come near 190 in the cooler days From start up and drive all the way to full operating temperature, which I should add takes 60% longer to warm up, the fan is operating with the 'jet noises'...

The clutch has never been replaced, I was doing price comparo's, also does the CAC represent the intercooler? Boost is still normal...
 

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Fan clutch replaced, problem solved. To much over thinking and engineering :rof
 
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