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Reign in Blood
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I was looking at making a front guard for my truck. I plan on using 125 wall box tubing, the plate will be 250 steel plate. All joints will be tig welded, single bevel v-groove. The 2 mounting plates will be wire cut...because I can. I plan on putting a winch on some time in the future so I wanted to make this thing fairly strong. I put a fairly large radius on the mounting plates to alleviate as much stress as possible. Dimensions are preliminary as I haven't totally measured everything. This is just for a baseline right now.

mount 1.jpg

mount 2.jpg

Comments, suggestions, changes welcome.
 

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Slave to the Interwebs
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9,954 Posts
The only weak point I see is the mount. If you put the winck up high I am not sure the plates on the bottom will be enough to pull 8000lbs. You may look into a brace to mount a winch lower. Or a tighter fitting mount in the frame rail.
I also do not know a whole lot about tig welding but I would use something with more heat and deeper penetration. I have always thought tig was for lighter gauge steel.
 

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Reign in Blood
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Discussion Starter #3
The only weak point I see is the mount. If you put the winck up high I am not sure the plates on the bottom will be enough to pull 8000lbs. You may look into a brace to mount a winch lower. Or a tighter fitting mount in the frame rail.
I also do not know a whole lot about tig welding but I would use something with more heat and deeper penetration. I have always thought tig was for lighter gauge steel.
My concern is the same on the brace. I may look into tying into the top bumper mounts to equalize the leverage. At this point the entire bending moment is at the .5 radius, so we will see.

As far as tig welding is concerned, it is just as strong or stronger than other welding processes. The best part is the finite heat control you have with a foot amptrol(pedal). The welder we have at work can go over 300A. Granted you can weld very thin material with it, but you can also weld very thick material. I have actually written a few welding how to's for other sites that I was a moderator on...if you want I can cut and paste them over here.
 

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Slave to the Interwebs
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My ranchand grille guard has two risers that come off the frame behind the bumper and then out to the center of the guard to support the weight up top. You may look into a bracket for that. I am sure with 1/4" plate on the top and bottom it would hold up well. You could also use thicker material for the bottom and 3/8" plate to for the mounts.
 

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Reign in Blood
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Discussion Starter #5
yeah i thought about going to 375 plate for the mounts. I might just do that, the thickness doesnt matter to me really, the wire machine can do over 12" thick lol.
 

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I would almost look in to beefing up where you're going to bolt it in to the frame.. my bumper has a real thick square tubing that slides in to the frame rail perfectly. Might be a little more stout than just a single piece of steel. Just a thought.
 

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Reign in Blood
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Discussion Starter #7
im probably going to bump it up to 3/8" steel for the chassis plates.
 

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Reign in Blood
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Discussion Starter #8
after looking at some pricing and taking some measurements I will be going with 4140 for the mounting plates and 4130 for the tubing...this is chrome moly tubing with a yield strength of over 50 ksi...when I get home I will redraw for final. I am also going to use the existing plow mounts for attachment. This will give me the best versatility and if I decide to get a plow in the future there will be no extra holes drilled to create possible rust paths or structural deficiencies. :D
 

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Are you going to weld it to the frame or just use the 2 bolt holes per side as in the drawing? Without welding I think you will shear the bolts before anything else would fail. You don't have to go very far up on the guard before producing the force necessary to shear the bolts. Other than that looks strong as heck.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Reign in Blood
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Discussion Starter #10
thanks, actually after looking at things on the plow mounts, I will use the single bolt in the front and i will make a radiused slot to slide into the bar in the back of the mount, the bolt hole will probably be slotted so I can get a nice snug fit. If I feel like it, I may make the front bolts from something like D2 tool steel...at 750 od the truck would bend in half before they broke :rof:
 

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Reign in Blood
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Discussion Starter #11
so after consulting with a buddy who has been in the machining industry for longer than i am alive (and a ME) we are back to regular 1018 crs...should do fine and solves a ton of issues.


to be continued...
 
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