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Fuel filter canister over tightened

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25K views 59 replies 23 participants last post by  flyinhawaiian968  
#1 ·
Hello all

sorry was not sure where to post this. I have a 2018 gmc 3500 SRW Duramax denali and I cannot remove the fuel filter canister. I have tried even using a long bar to get leverage but it will not budge. Help ?

looking for help on how to remove this It appears to be a plastic that even though I have the 36 mm socket might strip.

do I have to cut the cap off somehow and replace it ? Any help would be great

thanks !
 
#4 ·
I’ve never had mine have that problem but I think I’ve heard couple others have the same issue. I would be really careful and use a long breaker bar. Might need an extra person to hold the socket on and straight while the other works the breaker bar.

Might be a good time to look at an aftermarket setup if your handy and plan to keep the truck for awhile.
 
#5 ·
I’ve never had mine have that problem but I think I’ve heard couple others have the same issue. I would be really careful and use a long breaker bar. Might need an extra person to hold the socket on and straight while the other works the breaker bar.

Might be a good time to look at an aftermarket setup if your handy and plan to keep the truck for awhile.
Yea that is why I stopped worried about the socket slipping

I am handy and plan to keep,it awhile. Ideas or recommendations on aftermarket improvement ?
 
#6 ·
You loosened the little cap for the water separator right? Don’t think it would matter but just a thought.
Few options out there I attached a few different ones. I am personally eyeing the 2 filter setup from VSE as I think it does a better job than the factory setup and keeps water separator sensor working like it should. Little pricy but it is superior IMO.

- just the billet bowl
- single filter replacing stock unit
-Dual filter replacement
 
#7 ·
You loosened the little cap for the water separator right? Don’t think it would matter but just a thought.
Few options out there I attached a few different ones. I am personally eyeing the 2 filter setup from VSE as I think it does a better job than the factory setup and keeps water separator sensor working like it should. Little pricy but it is superior IMO.

- just the billet bowl
- single filter replacing stock unit
-Dual filter replacement
Thanks. I think these void the warranty though ??
 
#8 ·
An entire replacement unit is only like $50 from the rock...
Search for TP1014.
Just have to be careful of the blue clips on the fuel lines.
 
#10 · (Edited)
An entire replacement unit is only like $50 from the rock...
Search for TP1014.
Just have to be careful of the blue clips on the fuel lines.
You saying to just replace the whole housing with a stock replacement and the part is TP1014 ?

yes just looked and sure enough the whole thing is $51.79. Need to find some videos on removing the old and installing the new one.
 
#9 ·
They would need to prove whatever the failure you had was due to the fuel filter housing you replaced. Depending on your dealer I am sure they would try for sure.

You would have to make the call if it’s worth it or not. I think the VSE system does a lot better job than the factory setup so the chances of it causing the failure are less. There has been a couple guys on here who had the factory filter fail and cause all types of issues. When you do get that housing off make sure your filter isn’t torn.
 
#11 ·
TP1014 is the housing, TP1015 is the filter that goes into the housing.

Here's a link for you:
 
#14 ·
If going with another one, might I suggest just getting a new filter housing like this:

DmaxStore Billet Fuel Filter Housing (2017-2022 L5P / 2020-2022 LM2) | DMAX Store

You can then use a large cheater bar to get the plastic one off and replace it with this one. Won't matter if you ruin the old one if you have this to replace it with. I'd still suggest one of these for the new TP1014 unit, as you're only replacing the unit with the same thing, which will possibly do the same down the road.
 
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#23 ·
Hello all

sorry was not sure where to post this. I have a 2018 gmc 3500 SRW Duramax denali and I cannot remove the fuel filter canister. I have tried even using a long bar to get leverage but it will not budge. Help ?

looking for help on how to remove this It appears to be a plastic that even though I have the 36 mm socket might strip.

do I have to cut the cap off somehow and replace it ? Any help would be great

thanks !
Image
 
#27 ·
Used an impact wrench and socket to remove then replaced with this billet aluminum
That screams cheap Chinese clone. You couldn't pay me to put that on my truck. An entire fuel system is in the neighborhood of $10k.
why? As long as you use the AC Delco made in America filter the cap is billet aluminum that will take a socket and impact if needed. I don’t understand your abhorrence to aluminum made in China. If it’s china manufacture you are so against then if you removed all Chinese stuff from your rig it wouldn’t get out of the driveway. Every chip in your rig is made in china.
 
#24 ·
That screams cheap Chinese clone. You couldn't pay me to put that on my truck. An entire fuel system is in the neighborhood of $10k.
 
#25 ·
I used to use a screwdriver punched through the filter, but now I use a strap wrench when I can't get a filter off. I do most of my own work on our vehicles, but in the middle of winter I will bring whatever vehicle it is to a shop to have the oil changed including filters if need be.

The strap wrench has never failed me. Don't get me started on the oil drain plug when someone else drains the oil. I've gone off on the shop many times for overtightening that plug.
 
#50 ·
I used to use a screwdriver punched through the filter, but now I use a strap wrench when I can't get a filter off.
Same thing I did with the original housing. I tried getting the canister off the first time using the nut on the bottom, but being that's it's plastic it started to round pretty quickly. The strap wrench, and a bit of cursing, got the job done. I swapped it with an aluminum housing so now I can comfortably use a socket. It's still a PITA to get off but at least I'm less nervous using a cheater on it.
 
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#28 ·
Hello all

sorry was not sure where to post this. I have a 2018 gmc 3500 SRW Duramax denali and I cannot remove the fuel filter canister. I have tried even using a long bar to get leverage but it will not budge. Help ?

looking for help on how to remove this It appears to be a plastic that even though I have the 36 mm socket might strip.

do I have to cut the cap off somehow and replace it ? Any help would be great

thanks !
Have you tried a strap wrench or oil filter pliers?
 
#29 ·
Hello all

sorry was not sure where to post this. I have a 2018 gmc 3500 SRW Duramax denali and I cannot remove the fuel filter canister. I have tried even using a long bar to get leverage but it will not budge. Help ?

looking for help on how to remove this It appears to be a plastic that even though I have the 36 mm socket might strip.

do I have to cut the cap off somehow and replace it ? Any help would be great

thanks !
I was to the point of dropping entire unit but decided before dropping I would try an air impact and socket, worked like a charm, I guess the hammering and vibration loosened it. I replaced with the aluminum cap
 
#37 ·
@Denny3500 , just as a different school of thought here...if you lube the o rings, use an actual torque wrench and tighten the plastic cap properly you'll be fine. I'm at 62k miles with 6 filter changes with the original plastic head and cap.
Personally, I'd put the money towards ditching the factory setup all together and get the VXE setup. 🤷‍♂️
 
#39 ·
Ok, so I'm doing this from memory, so the numbers might not be exact.

There are two different torque specs, one for the bowl, and one for the drain.

There is also a procedure, so 2+.5 Nm means first tighten to 2 Nm, then set the wrench to 2.5 Nm for final torque. The 2 Nm applies to the drain plug.

The bowl is 25 Nm + 5 Nm (once again, check what the bowl says)

2Nm is 17.7 in lbs

25 Nm is 18.4 ft lbs
 
#41 ·
Ok, so I'm doing this from memory, so the numbers might not be exact.

There are two different torque specs, one for the bowl, and one for the drain.

There is also a procedure, so 2+.5 Nm means first tighten to 2 Nm, then set the wrench to 2.5 Nm for final torque. The 2 Nm applies to the drain plug.

The bowl is 25 Nm + 5 Nm (once again, check what the bowl says)

2Nm is 17.7 in lbs

25 Nm is 18.4 ft lbs
my torque wrench doesn’t go that low. I’m going to buy a new torque wrench and re torque mine.
 
#42 ·
So I found with the drain plug that I just use the socket with no handle and just snug it by hand. The threads are tiny on the drain plug.
For the bowl, yes, I use a 3/8" drive torque wrench with a 1/2" drive adapter in order to tighten it up. Most 1/2" drive torque wrenches don't go that low.
 
#46 ·
Nice! Did it screw in smooth? All the threads meshed well with the oem part? Would be good info for future visitors of this thread!
 
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#47 ·
It fit perfectly and if I told someone it was OEM they'd believe me with how easy it went on. It's a pretty nice unit, there could be better ones out there however I'd buy that again in a heartbeat vs. that plastic piece that came with it. You won't have any issues with the Socket slipping on this one either as the 36mm on this is about X2 longer.
 
#51 ·
Jman and Cowboy, you both indicated you used an aluminum housing. Was it the one from Amazon? Cowboy had swapped the o-ring for a copper washer. My plan was to use the Amazon housing and verify clearances, perhaps tap out the hole and affix a proper drain valve such as found on an air compressor or similar but rated for fuel and well over 100 psi. That would make periodic drain and inspection a really easy task.