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2018 Silverado 3500 LTZ Z71 L5P CCSB
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Ok, so I'm doing this from memory, so the numbers might not be exact.

There are two different torque specs, one for the bowl, and one for the drain.

There is also a procedure, so 2+.5 Nm means first tighten to 2 Nm, then set the wrench to 2.5 Nm for final torque. The 2 Nm applies to the drain plug.

The bowl is 25 Nm + 5 Nm (once again, check what the bowl says)

2Nm is 17.7 in lbs

25 Nm is 18.4 ft lbs
my torque wrench doesn’t go that low. I’m going to buy a new torque wrench and re torque mine.
 

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So I found with the drain plug that I just use the socket with no handle and just snug it by hand. The threads are tiny on the drain plug.
For the bowl, yes, I use a 3/8" drive torque wrench with a 1/2" drive adapter in order to tighten it up. Most 1/2" drive torque wrenches don't go that low.
 

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2022 2500HD High Country
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So, which billet canister you go with? Curious to know.
 

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2022 2500HD High Country
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Nice! Did it screw in smooth? All the threads meshed well with the oem part? Would be good info for future visitors of this thread!
 
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Nice! Did it screw in smooth? All the threads meshed well with the oem part? Would be good info for future visitors of this thread!
It fit perfectly and if I told someone it was OEM they'd believe me with how easy it went on. It's a pretty nice unit, there could be better ones out there however I'd buy that again in a heartbeat vs. that plastic piece that came with it. You won't have any issues with the Socket slipping on this one either as the 36mm on this is about X2 longer.
 

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2006 LBZ, 2009 LML, 2022 L5P. 1993 6.5 parked in the shed.
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Did it feel like the fuel filter fit in tight?
 

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I used to use a screwdriver punched through the filter, but now I use a strap wrench when I can't get a filter off.
Same thing I did with the original housing. I tried getting the canister off the first time using the nut on the bottom, but being that's it's plastic it started to round pretty quickly. The strap wrench, and a bit of cursing, got the job done. I swapped it with an aluminum housing so now I can comfortably use a socket. It's still a PITA to get off but at least I'm less nervous using a cheater on it.
 
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Jman and Cowboy, you both indicated you used an aluminum housing. Was it the one from Amazon? Cowboy had swapped the o-ring for a copper washer. My plan was to use the Amazon housing and verify clearances, perhaps tap out the hole and affix a proper drain valve such as found on an air compressor or similar but rated for fuel and well over 100 psi. That would make periodic drain and inspection a really easy task.
 

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I also bought this same billet cap through mail order. Boy do I feel stupid...they are manufactured about 5 miles from my home! I'll install the cap tomorrow. I just changed the filter, not too long ago, but I'll just use the same filter.
It's a nice piece, I think you'll like it.
 
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You talked me in to it. Thanks for the link. I'm coming up on my first fuel filter change and will throw it on then.
I did install my H&S cap yesterday and it fit quite well. The filter O-ring fit very snug and treads were perfect. I'm not in love with the drain plug and think the OEM was a much better design. When you change your filter, save yourself from getting a diesel bath by removing the drain plug on the cap. Nothing will drain immediately, but as you loosen the cap it will drain nicely into a little bucket.
 
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