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Discussion Starter #1
I know this is pathetic....but I changed my first fuel filter today and I wanted to share my experiences...because I noticed that everyone's is different. First off...I don't understand how ANYONE can get a strap wrench around the fuel filter...I tried 3 different kinds with no success. And then I decided to rip my wheel wall off...and still couldn't get one to work. So I finally decided to just do it with my hands and it worked. So I took it off....used a reg. wrench to get the cheap plastic piece of crap water sensor off....it was easier than I thought. And I didn't use and type of lube or anything to put it back on...it was really easy....and I checked for leaks and there are none. I didn't even use a filter wrench to tighten it. And I primed an empty filter 3 times and it was full and my truck ran fine. I've heard horror stories and it wasn't that at all. And alot of people say the gas spills out....I had absolutely NO gas spill anywhere. And next time...I will NOT take the wheel well off. That was awful. Ok...I'm done now. I was just proud of myself doing it successfully with no help.:rockin
 

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Good to hear you got it done. I have no problems with a strap wrench....I guess my years of working on the F-16 and getting into tight spots there have helped me out. The places they put things on that jet are rediculous...I'm sure it looked good on the CADD drawings, but those guys never had to actually work on the jet.
 

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That is a bad spot to hang the fuel filter. Glad you got it. You can get a strap wrench on it but it is a pain. I use a big channel lock plier on the very top of it at the seam to get it loose if I can't get it by hand.
You should lube the gasket/0-ring with a little fuel before putting it on.
I had a spare RACOR 30 micron filter and base and went to put it on. There just ain't no good place for that either. Tried under the air filter, wasn't good there, couldn't see it and was a pain to get to when it came time to change. Ended up mounting it behind the grill. Yup, got to take out the grill to change the fuel filter but I can see it and drain the water out if it easily.
The idea is to have a 30 or 45 micron filter ahead of the stock to catch the big rocks and seperate the water, makes the one that is a pain to get to last longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does water get in the fuel easily? I read how to drain it...but I didn't think it was a common thing?
 

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You shouldn't have a problem with it (water) as long as you buy from a high volume fuel place. I run stanadyne for a little extra insurance not to mention I have 2 water separators on my truck. I have never had to drain water out of mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I buy from the same place all the time. And it seems to be good. Plus I run Stanadyne every single tank. If I do get water..it will let me know right? And all I do is unscrew that little white thing on the bottom of the sensor right?
 

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Yes, you would just open that wingnut drain on the filter. You should get a water in fuel warning on your DIC (where your odometer is) if there is water in the fuel.
 

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Yes, your water detector should alarm you if it detects water. That little float thingy in the bottom of your filter will float in water but not fuel and in turn turning on your warning light.

I would pay close attention should the light come on, pull over and stop immediately. Water in the injectors is not a good thing.

A fuel water seperator is a most excellent idea, get it out of the fuel before it has a chnace to do damage. I run a RACOR that is also a filter. 45 micron, takes out the big stuff and in turn allows the OEM to last a little longer. Would be a good idea to move the water detect there to give a littl emore of a warning should water get into your fuel.

When I fill with fuel I leave it running. Filled one time and got a huge gulp of rusty water, it stopped the engine as I was pulling out of the station, they denyed that I got the water from them. Filled a couple of years ago with the engine running (it was real cold out) and got water, the water detector light came on and I shut it down right then and there. Again the station manager denyed he was selling water. Did not pull the nozzle out of the tank, called the state (should have the number on every fuel pump) and the end result was the station called GM, had my truck hauled to the nearest GM dealer, pulled the tank, flushed it, flushed the fuel lines, new fuel filter and a fresh tank of fuel. All at that BP's expense, they even covered lost wages and time. State slapped a fine on them, come to find their underground tank was leaking, they ended up having to fix that too.

Not much of a fan of any fuel additive unless you are addressing a particular issue such as algae. Pretty much of a waste of funds.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
For me running stanadyne...it's only an extra 67 cents per tank. For me it's piece of mind and it doesn't bother me to spend the money. But as far as a fuel water seperator....how much is one? And is it hard to install?
 

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They are real easy to install. Problem is finding a good location. You want it ahead of the existing fuel filter. RACOR is a company in the filter business, might do a web search for them and see. I would not go smaller than 20 micron in a fuel water seperator ahead of the OEM. Let your new filter take out the large particles and water, let the OEM do the final filtering.

There is room under the vehicle, between the grill and the radiator but under the hood its pretty tight. Get the best quality lines you can afford, route them so they won't chaff and leak, leave enough slack so you can go back to using just the OEM should you need to. Give your self enough room to change the element without having to stand on your head.

I first mounted mine under the air filter box. Had plenty of room but turned into a pain when it came time to change the filter element. Couldn't see it so couldn't tell what was in the clear bowl. Now its behing the grill, ahead of the raditor. Yes, have to pop oout the grille to change it but that is easy and quick. I can see the bowl to see if it has water and if I had to, can easily add another one. Word of caution on that, if you are in cold country (I'm not) you might not want to mount there, exposure to cold air, possible waxing because of the cold it would be exposed to.

Anyone care to post their installations of additional filtering? I'm sure some of us have gotten creative and have some real good ideas.
 

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I have mine mounted on the frame rail right in front of the fuel tank. Works great. I still run additives because of the new ULSD and because it gets so cold here. It isn't that much extra and my truck seems to run smoother on the additive and I get slightly better fuel economy with it.


Here is the one I have: Racor setup
and more info on the same one: Racor PDF
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok...here is my next question. If I don't purchase this....what are the chances of me getting water in my fuel considering I live in PA which means the coldest it gets is around 0 and that's only 2 days a year. Typically it's around 18 to 35. And I use Stanadyne every tank. AND...I just googled it and looked everywhere and I can't find where to purchase one....and how much it costs. Can anyone tell me the price of this? And is the guard worth getting?
 

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You will be ok...the stock filter has a water separator. I bought mine for about $300 and it has the heater on it too. You can go go any marina or diesel shop and put one of these kits together for under $100. I felt the guard was worth getting, but mine came with a different one than the one pictured. Your best bet would be to actually call that company in the first link. They should be able to hook you up if that is the set-up that you want.
 
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