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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have read multiple articles on parts that need to or should be replaced during head gasket replacment but I did notice all the ones I seen are 7-10 years old so I am looking for any advice to what else should be changed or if there is improved parts now. I have a 2006 lly some daily driving mostly hauling a 9,000lb trailer every weekend. I am not looking for huge power gains I just want this to be a bullet proof reliable hauler with decent fuel economy. So far I have this list if parts to get

Head gasket kit with arp studs and c gaskets
Up pipe
Down pipe
Lbz mouth piece
Replacing all rubber hoses
New thermostates
Welded water pump
Glow plugs
Lift pump
Injector return lines
Air cleaner box
Then possible tuner for hauling/economy

Is there anything else that should be done will engine is tore down. Truck has 133000 miles and the heads will be going to the machine shop to be checked. I was told to replace nozzles with +30 but I dont see the need. Any input will help
 

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I would find the tunes you need before proceeding..
Keep all the parts you plan on leaving off..
You might need them in the future..
 

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Having just completed new headgaskets, turbo, injectors and water pump on my 2006 LBZ I would suggest a new Bosch fuel pressure regulator, PPE ported fuel fitting and race plug, ARP studs, up-pipe bolts, exhaust manifold bolts & harmonic balancer bolt, new oem injector hold-down bolts and oem upper & lower radiator hoses. I also replaced all heater hoses and used the Dorman stainless quick-connects at the heater hose/firewall connection. Also consider new idler and tensioner pulleys w/ Gates or Continental Elite serpentine belt. For ease of access I pulled the radiator stack and cleaned/pressure washed it before reinstalling. If using the Mahle upper engine gasket kit they do not supply the up-pipe to egr gasket so you will need to order that as well. Many have suggested replacing/upgrading the fan clutch, I did not do that but it is something to definitely consider. I replaced the lower valve cover bolts near the firewall with hex bolts and also replaced the two upper rear Y-bridge bolts with cap screws for ease of access when torqueing to spec. Make sure you have your injectors checked by a qualified shop, my balance rates were all good however two injectors failed due to high return rates so I replaced them all so I wouldn't have to cross that bridge again. Talk to Brent at Lincoln Diesel Specialties, an excellent resource and first-rate supplier. Many of the upgrades I did were mostly for preventive maintenance because once you go down that rabbit hole you may as well take care of everything while there because you'll not want to do it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's the plan with this job is preventive maintenance and economy. Roughly how much did your repair with your upgrades cost? I will call Brent after work now just hoping nothing is back ordered
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also my truck is classified as 2006 lly. Is there any difference between the lbz and lly when ordering parts. I noticed some websites list them the same and some just show lbz
 

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I have a stack of receipts a mile high... I just don't want to add them all up! Ballpark $$$ about $6500+. I replaced the t-stats and serpentine/pulleys last Fall so that's not included above. Turbo was in good shape and just needed the vanes/unison ring to be cleaned but I opted for the new and improved oem replacement. Beg, borrow or steal a Topside Creeper, you'll need it. Mechanically this job isn't difficult but it IS time consuming. Unless you are pulling the cab or removing the engine the Duramax will make you fight for every last nut and bolt. Take lots and lots of photo's and label everything while keeping things organized for re-assembly. Your LLY is supposed to be nearly identical to the LBZ except for tuning so for the most part they are the same but be prepared for small differences if and when they come up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Im planning on leaving the cab I did pull the box because I'm putting a lift pump and new lines on. My plan was to remove hood and fenders so I had more room. I have a back up vehicle so i am in no rush to get the job done.
 

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That works but you only need to remove the inner fender liners and put the hood in the "service" position which allows a lot more room. Passenger side has a lot of room to work, Driver's side you have to contend with a lot of wiring and fighting the fuel lines being in the way. Removing the stack was the best way to go for me. Depending on which lift pump you go with you may or may not have to remove the box. I used the Kennedy single and did all my work from below. Pics are near the end of this thread: My Lift Pump Kit
 

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You’ve got a good list and some good advise already. One thing i would change is just go with a new OEM water pump. Them welded ones are over rated and even a local sled puller wont use anything but a new OEM as any welded or whatever failed.
 

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Its an lbz order parts for an lbz.
 

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Check out kbdiesel performance. I have ordered alot of stuff from them. I did not have gasket failure but was considering doing a head stud upgrade because of a coolant leak by the turbo that had me thinking hg.
1086809
 

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They also sell gm parts too. I dont work or know anyone from there. Just looked around and found them. I did the turbo upgrade when I pulled the turbo to find the leak. It was a solid kit. Worked great. 1 more thing to consider is there is a coolant passage plate on the rear passenger side by the bellhousing that has a tendency to leak. Might consider an o-ringed version to replace a leak prone part. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What is the turbo upgrade? I ended up pulling the engine I found a scuff mark in the #7 cylinder just got done pulling the piston and it's a broken ring. Looking at upgrading anything at this point not for power gains just reliability while I have it apart.
 

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The turbo upgrade I did was the 10 blade exhaust turbine and a billet 63.5mm wheel and housing. It sounds alot better and spools much quicker. Probably would of done the 68 mm but it was out of stock when I did mine.
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Well, quicker spooling gets into boost quicker which helps with both power and efficiency. The stock turbo is great. But the extra boost builds torque faster which helps pull. The only thing that might be annoying is that the 10 blade turbine on the hot side whistles a little bit. With a good tune and small upgrades you will be alot more efficient and powerful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The truck is mostly our tow rig hauling a 9000ish pound trailer Friday and Saturdays with a little daiy driving. I am (fixing) the egr and upgrading the down pipe new head studs and now I have the turbo upgrade on the list. Ia there anything else I should consider. I am in debate on if I should change the pistons i have seen alot of people talking about cracked pistons but the truck is not going to be tuned for huge power and boost just a touch better than stock I have the pistons out do to one piston ring cracking so I planned on changing all of the rings. What's your thought on the pistons?
 

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Man.....from what I understand the pistons are the weak link in the lbz/lly engines. When I tear down an engine for repairs I dont usually just replace 1 piston. I 98% of the time just go through the engine. Fresh bore, great brand forged pistons, good set of rings. These engines are awesome at power and durability. But with all things there is always a week link. You patch it today and might wish you did not tomorrow. Ya know?😁
 
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