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Discussion Starter #1
So, I'll try to make this short and sweet as possible.

My heater core has been leaking for some time now, and being in southern California there wasnt a huge need for heat or a/c, although it could get a bit warm in the summer. I use the truck to haul cars so I can also plan my drive times accordingly and hot days really arent a problem, and heat I can just wear some sweatshirts etc.

So, been putting it off, being that the motor would never get hot or overheat. I'm thinking even tho the coolant is low, I'm good to go as long as the engine isnt getting hot. Now, every once in a while, going over a grade usually, I would get a cel, and reduced power warning, I could pull off the shoulder and stop and start the engine and the cel would be lit up but no more reduced power, and the light would always go away on it's own. However this last trip, on my way back from slc, ut, I got the 165 miles til 65mph max speed msg on the dic. Pulled into the closest dealer in st George, and 2 hours later, they came back with need to replace the egr cooler bypass valve and the turbo, 6500, and would be down for at least 3-4 days and the turbo was on backorder for at least 2 weeks.
So, really quick, what was happening or so I think, is that being that the turbo sits up above the motor, it was being starved of coolant, and then the oil got nice and gummified and started sticking when the vane actuator would try to adjust the variable vanes.

I was also stressing on how to get the truck home, and ended up flying back to st george and driving back. Now when I fid this I stopped off the coolant just in Hope's it might reset the light or whatever. Low and behold, after like an hour of driving the countdown timer went away. Couple hours later it came back on, but the mileage had gone back up, but started counting me down again. Stopped, topped off the coolant, but kept counting me down. When it hit 0, it said limiting to 65mph, but I was going about 85mph, and as long as I kept it over 85, I wasnt limited. I drove for hours like that, then I had to slow down just a little, and it took me down to 65, then I got 75 miles til 55mph, which I hit, then like 30 mins from home, it went off again, and I c oku uod go 85-90, in mexico, and made it home. Driving around town the next day to get the ac discharged I would get the 55mph limit jumping on and off...
So, lesson learned, either fix the heater core or at least bypass it to save all the other shit that lives off the cooling system. I'm not stupid, just a bit ignorant when it comes to diesel cooling systems of today. The truck is 2013 dually and as of now has 206k miles on it, 99% towing a one car enclosed trailer, and literally the only problems I had was, 36k miles there was a small lower pan seal leak, at about 105k miles, the def heater went, and I did it myself for like 150$, at about 175k miles, the dpf got clogged but that was on me, my fault. I let the air filter go top long, and it was so clogged it created positive crankcase pressure and oil was sucking out the exhaust into the dpf clogging it and not allowing it to regen the soot to 0%, and now thos problem, which I honestly attribute to my own ignorance and stupidity. I been putting off the heater core for 2 reasons, the main reason is the time involved in doing this job, which is reason number 2 which is if I paid a shop, were talking like 1k-1200, oh and if a shop did it, I would be so pissed if they fucked up any interior parts like scratching shit... specially after any bid i was lucky enough to find on YouTube. So, i just started doing it myself, for anyone that's interested I'll Go start a diy thread, I'm also going my egr bypass valve and the turbo is coming out, and I'll either rebuild it or get a garrett reman.

Anyone have any questions or can toss me any input to make it a bit easier. This is def a mothefucker of a job, actually each one is a motherfucker I'm ots own right, and doing all 3 at once.... fuck me, plus I have an air dog lift pump and a set of self leveling air bags/kit to install, I have new rotors and pads for the rear end as well as brand new diff fluid. And I also got one of those wehrli fab fuel filter things that are an upgrade to the factory unit in case the injector pump decides to let go, this 250 piece is supposed to save the engine from being destroyed by the injector pump shrapnel that gets pushed through the fuel system.
Anyway, I dunno of this is informative or helpful, but overall, I fucking love my truck, and being that it's all stock and pretty much brand new inside still after 7 yrs and 200k miles males me happy I made the investment in this thing. Oh and my the way, I got 180k miles out of factory front pads and rotors, and the rears are still the oem equipped pads and rotors at 206kiles, I'm just barely getting the indicator swueel on braking.

Take care guys

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