[bumbalard]

No offense. I just get tired of the bad rap a few yahoos out there give K&N when they don't know how to use it correctly. I've run K&N products in 2 prior Duramaxes, and several cars. They worked great. Their filtering does a good job as well. K&N is the only cold air intake I will use. I also use their drop in filters for existing stock filter boxes.

Yeah.... that is cool if you want to run them, do your thing.

I personally trust the proven data that shows you are paying more for worse filtration, in comparison to numerous other filter types available.

Do K&Ns work? Yes.
Are they the best filtration option? No.
Are they the best filtration in their price range? No.
Can you get better filtration from a cheaper filter? Yes.
Can you get reusable filters that don't require oil, and provide better filtration, for less money? Yes.
Is it such a big big deal I need to rush out and replace the K&N my truck came with when I bought it? No.
If I need a new filter, will I buy a K&N for my duramax? No.

There are opinions, there is data, and there is reality. K&N's wont turn your truck into a steamy pile of crap. But you are paying more for less. It is proven.

 

[bumbalard]

I guys, I just got my first Duramax. It's a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500. I got it from the auction in MO. My buddy owns a dealership, so he was able to get it for me. He took it to get it smogged, and it did not pass. This is what the smog report said in the comments.

EGR removed, no EO for air intake,no catalytic converter, no EO # for performance tuner, Black smoke during BAR Snap Test.

ALSO: Missfire

So i did not know that the truck wasn't stock, nor did my buddy.

If i knew it has this stuff on it, I would have taken the Tuner and KNN intake off before the smog. If anymore can help with some other issues, that would be great. Thanks guys.

As a California resident, I feel your pain. I recently failed the readiness monitor portion of the test. All because the high idle/PTO switch was left on, which I never ever turn off because it turns the function off when not in park or the first time you hit the brake pedal.

Not sure where in Cali you are, but I am up just above Auburn in Norcal. If you run into any issues and are near, give me a shout. I have a tech 2 and know these trucks in and out. A few local shops call me if they run into a duramax stumper question.

 

[bumbalard]

...So my Duramax in the driveway, the front passenger side rotor locked up on me on the freeway. It was smoking like crazy. Idk wtf happened. The truck came from MO, so she’s a little rusty. I’m not sure if the calipers grease dried out.... also, I found that the abs wire was rubbing against the tire and exported the wires. Maybe that set of the abs to break the wheel idk. I’m also leaking fuel from the fuel return Line to the cooler. I already ordered the stock egr on eBay, and the horn heater (whatever it’s called) from eBay.also, I’m not sure if I need wheel bearing. I have some play going side to side. Any help is appreciated.

I keep trying to respond to your DM CaliDude but when I hit send it looks like the message disappears and is not in my sent folder, so I will post it here, complete with all the disclaimers you need to post to not get flammed:


Brakes:

Could be slides dried out, but that usually creates uneven wear, not a lockup. I would be inclined to assume the caliper seized.

Get yourself a set of slotted/drilled rotors with pads from summitracing or amazon. Powerstop comes to mind. I think last time I bought a set for a 2500hd it was about $280. You will also need the extra pads for the rear ebrake, which is a drum inside the rear rotors. The ebrake is pretty worthless on this truck so that is up to you. If you can find a better deal on non-slotted/drilled, no reason to only go for the slotted/drilled. I like them, but its a debated topic. Your choice.

And of course at least one caliper. I think I spent about $80 on one from Napa auto parts. A Tech2 tool will help with the bleeding procedure, but you can get by without one.

ABS:

My truck does not have traction control.
ABS should only release braking when a wheel that loses traction to prevent skids. Traction control usually applies braking to avoid skids in combination with ABS functions. I would assume this is not what caused the lockup. These are high level generalizations that do not apply to all vehicles, but rather my understanding of the varying types of traction control available to GM trucks back then. These are assumptions based on the data available.

Those harnesses are cheap assuming it is the section that has a harness connector on each side between the hub and vehicle harness. $20 at dmaxstore.com but often comes with a replacement hub/bearing. Which brings me to the next item...

Wheel bearing:

If you are getting side to side play, it usually is the bearing. That being said, how you tested for the movement is important, and it could be the ball joints you were feeling(up to down).

Replacement hubs/bearings in my experience also usually come with the ABS harness. You might want to verify and just ensure you get it either way rather than repairing.

Fuel Leak:

Wont effect smog, but a safety concern. Also, your truck shouldn't be flowing huge amounts of fuel out the return unless you have injector issues, or the FPR was modified poorly. Shouldn't effect smog, so maybe just keep an eye on the leak for now until you have less on your plate. I would opt to fix immediately.

EGR:

This can be scary. There are many components to the EGR system. Depending on how they did the delete, it could be a few parts or many. The EGR cooler mounts to a ybridge that is specific to the EGR vehicles. If they swapped that out to remove the cooler without the need for a block plate, you are going to need a enough parts to warrant looking at a diagram and identifying what all you are missing. Solenoids, vacuum pump, baro sensor, egr valve, egr cooler, ybridge, etc.

Is the vaccum pump still present? If so, is the belt still moving it when the truck is being ran but the vaccum line simply capped off? Or did they replace the belt with a shorter one and leave it in? Not sure if that last one is possible, never personally seen a vehicle with it left in and a short belt installed, or attempted to do the same.

 

[bumbalard]

Dan,
He is in the Demmokratic Peoples Republik of Kalifornia. There are No counties in that state that do not have smog testing, it is a State Law.

In an effort to provide clarity, California has six counties that only require biennial smog checks, El Dorado, Placer, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, and Sonoma.
Select zip codes within these counties do not require ongoing smog checks every other year if your vehicle is registered to an address that falls in this category.

The big blocker on this, is that you still must smog newly purchased/transferred vehicles. So the county specific smog work around only works if you can pass the initial smog test. Then there are no checks afterwards. This would not help OP.

 

[bumbalard]

In an effort to provide clarity, California has six counties that only require biennial smog checks, El Dorado, Placer, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, and Sonoma.
Select zip codes within these counties do not require ongoing smog checks every other year if your vehicle is registered to an address that falls in this category.

The big blocker on this, is that you still must smog newly purchased/transferred vehicles. So the county specific smog work around only works if you can pass the initial smog test. Then there are no checks afterwards. This would not help OP.

Err, typo. Six counties that DO NOT require biennial smog checks for certain zip codes.

 

[bumbalard]

I stand corrected and educated. Thanks

Where is there a list of those Zip Codes?

As far as I am aware, the is not a list of zip codes exactly, but rather a tool to enter your zip code, which tells you what testing you are subject too.

Link to info:
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/vr/smogfaq

Link to Zip tool:
https://smogcheck.ca.gov/pubwebquery/Ziparea/ZipLookup.aspx

Excerpt on area types:

Program Areas
All areas of California require Smog Check certifications when a specified model-year vehicle changes ownership or is registered for the first time in California. The Smog Check Program divides the state into the following areas:

Enhanced Areas: These areas do not meet federal or state air quality standards for ozone and carbon monoxide. Biennial Smog Check inspections are required in these areas, in addition to the change of ownership and initial registration inspection requirement. Additionally, a portion of the vehicles in Enhanced Areas must receive their biennial Smog Check at a STAR station. In order to measure NOx emissions, specified model-year vehicles in Enhanced Area are subject to an ASM (Acceleration Simulation Mode) emissions test.

Basic Areas: Basic areas are less polluted then Enhanced Areas; however, due to their marginal air quality, biennial inspections are required. Specified model-year vehicles in Basic Areas require a Smog Check every two years during their registration renewal with DMV. Vehicles registered in a Basic Area must receive a TSI (Two Speed Idle) Smog Check.

Change of Ownership Areas: These more rural areas of the state require Smog Check certification only when an affected vehicle changes ownership (with the exception of gasoline vehicles four or less model-years old), or is initially registered in California. Vehicles within specified model-years registered in the Change of Ownership Areas are subject to Smog Check only upon change of ownership or initial registration in California. Vehicles registered in this area must receive a TSI (Two Speed Idle) Smog Check.

 

[bumbalard]

As far as I am aware, the is not a list of zip codes exactly, but rather a tool to enter your zip code, which tells you what testing you are subject too.

Link to info:
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/vr/smogfaq

Link to Zip tool:
https://smogcheck.ca.gov/pubwebquery/Ziparea/ZipLookup.aspx

Excerpt on area types:

One could of course compile a list of zips in each of those listed counties, check them one by one, and report back, but that's work.

 

[bumbalard]

Not affiliated in any way, but since YOU are talking about ordering stuff other than your EGR equipment, such as but not limited to; wheel bearings, abs harness, brake rotor/calipers, etc...

I highly recommend dmaxstore.com. The main reason I am mentioning this, is because they are right up the street from you in Shingle Springs. Short drive. You can save on shipping costs this way since you are having to spend so much unexpected money. Wonderfully helpful staff if you ever have questions, or if you are frustrated with the not so nice attitudes you frequently find here.

 

[bumbalard]

rancho cordova is in your backyard

Thanks for the reply, I'm going to contact them tomorrow to see what i have to do so they can update the tuner. If i can get a carb sticker for it, I'll reinstall in before the smog. On the smog paper work, them mentioned that the tuner did not have a carb sticker, along with the KNN intake, however, i have been working with KNN to get that sticker, i may have it by this Friday.

I would just disconnect it for now. Mine get's disconnected for a few days every two years when it's that time.

Thanks for the info. I havent been in Phx in years. I'm going to try and located a stock exhaust here in Ca for the smog, and ill throw on the 4" right afterwards. Finding a stock exhaust here is almost impossible.

You don't need a whole stock exhaust. Just the cat piece. If you have an aftermarket down pipe, it will need a CARB EO number, but nothing after the cat is important.
I have 5" MBRP exhaust, no muffler. The stock cat and MBRP test pipe are interchangeable. Its just a vband at the downpipe side and a 4 bolt flange with a gasket to connect it to the catback section. These just get swapped every two years, quick smog, swap back, done.
You don't even need to drop the cross member like some people think. I have been able to snake it in and out many times with the cat can lined up with the engine oilpan and torsion bar. Apply a tiny bit of pressure outwards on the torsion bar and the cat just falls out.

Living where you do, just mosey on over to recycle road in rancho cordova. You can grab anything you want real quick. Worlds largest collection of vehicle recycle centers, pick-n-pull, etc.

 

[bumbalard]

really....

Their filter is still a terrible product and allows dust into the engine...

You made your point multiple times. I agreed with you. Leave it alone man.

 

[bumbalard]

how does that help the OP register his deleted truck in the peoples democratic republic of california?

If you read, it is stated quite clearly how it is related. Troll much? JWC

Here is a recap since you apparently missed it...

• He needs to buy stuff, quite a bit.
• He is in the Sacramento area, as stated.
• Dmaxstore.com is located very close to sac, and has great prices on some of the things he needs. He can pick it up rather than paying shipping.
• I also mentioned in another post, where he said he was having difficulty finding a stock exhaust. I pointed him to another area near him that many people wish they had near them, recycle road in rancho cordova. I guess by your logic I should not have mentioned that resource either?? 'dunno;

 

[bumbalard]

no, not a troll. how does a good deal on aftermarket parts, in particular transmission fluid, help him restore factory parts? its aftermarket parts that got him in the place hes in now. Unless i have missed a whole section on there site, they do not sell factory equipment. If you pointed him to a place that sells used factory stuff, thats great, and probably does help. I like duramax store too, i just dont see how they would help the OP. A shameless plug would imply that you have a financial motivation to promote this brand, hence, not exactly helpful to the OP, and kind of a grey area on the forum as well.

First definition in google for shameless plug:

Dude, you are a prime example of why I lurked since 2013 instead of having a massive post count. You cant help anyone without someone like you jumping in to be like this.
OMG you used the wrong word.
OMG, his post title said he needed help un-deleting his egr, it doesn't matter if he also asked about his ABS wires being chewed up, or his wheel bearings, which I also mentioned he could get at NAPA auto for about $80, guess I shouldn't have mentioned NAPA auto either.

He said his wheel bearing and abs sensor wire needs to be replaced, along with a long list of other stuff that isn't ONLY his deleted egr system.
He then responded saying that is cool he would make the drive for good service. He found it helpful.

You didn't apparently, now you are on here nagging about how appropriate it was for me to tell him that info. Really?

 

[bumbalard]

...Unless i have missed a whole section on there site, they do not sell factory equipment...

https://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&path=818_943_949&product_id=577
They sell some GM factory stuff, and some better than OEM replacements, as well as aftermarket.

What is hilarious, is I made a point to poke fun at needing to disclaimer everything to not get flamed in an earlier post in this thread, didn't take long.
@CaliDude, if you want any advice, or even to meet up some time since we are a town or two away, shoot me a DM. I promise I won't give you a hard time if you don't have perfect grammar, or recommend anything in passing that might be helpful, or talk shit about your K&N filter every time you mention it.

 

[bumbalard]

Im sorry that you feel that way. I dont feel like you needed to disclaim everything or anything, i was simply asking how that post pertained to the OP's issue. I still do not feel that it does. What it does do, is makes it look like you are affiliated with DM store trying to push there brand. Im sorry if i misunderstood what you were trying to get at, however that is how it reads based on the word choices you made. I also do not see how a CV shaft helps the OP. What i am not seeing on there site is anything in the way of factory exhaust, cats, and other components to restore the truck to stock, though i will admit they do appear to have the EGR valve and gaskets for his truck, though i believe he has already purchased those from ebay per a previous post.

I simply asked you to explain the relevance of your post as it pertains to the OP, and instead you come back with a bunch of attitude. Im sorry if you applied tone to my post in your head that was not there.

I will admit that my post may have been short and lacking detail that could have avoided this issue, for that i apologize. I do not think that asking you to explain how the post you made was relevant was wrong though. At this point from reading the OP's responses it sounds like he has sourced most of the parts for the truck excluding the exhaust.

To that end i would recommend looking to see if there is an intact exhaust system at a junk yard that could easily be put on the truck to pass inspection. At that point the truck would be legal to register, and that would either give OP time to source proper parts for the truck, or to hit a big pot hole, his choice. It might not even hurt to look on craigslist for someone wanting aftermarket exhaust, see if they will just trade you for there old factory hardware, or see if there's someone selling a factory exhaust.

The answers to your questions were in the thread already. He asked about stuff other than his EGR. I mentioned this fact in my prior post, but you seem to have missed that. You stated they didn't sell anything but aftermarket parts. I provided a link that proves otherwise, which you then took issue with and cited relevancy. Really?

Seems like you are just arguing for the sake of arguing dude.

OP I am sure didn't take issue with my post that certainly didn't hurt anyone.

I had also mentioned he is right next to the biggest collection of auto recycle and junk yards in the world, and named the location, but I am learning I should have phrased it like you "find a junkyard" rather than attempt to be helpful and provide details.

I made sure to edit the post in question to reflect your feedback however, and clearly explain why I was posting that post, even though the context of the thread should have made that evident. I guess you have to be real careful to only answer questions in the OP's first post and nothing thereafter here at duramaxforums. Lesson learned.

I stayed away because of all the posts by others complaining about the toxicity of this place. I recently made the decision to try and help out where I can. I am thinking I was on the right track the first time by staying away.