...So my Duramax in the driveway, the front passenger side rotor locked up on me on the freeway. It was smoking like crazy. Idk wtf happened. The truck came from MO, so she’s a little rusty. I’m not sure if the calipers grease dried out.... also, I found that the abs wire was rubbing against the tire and exported the wires. Maybe that set of the abs to break the wheel idk. I’m also leaking fuel from the fuel return Line to the cooler. I already ordered the stock egr on eBay, and the horn heater (whatever it’s called) from eBay.also, I’m not sure if I need wheel bearing. I have some play going side to side. Any help is appreciated.
I keep trying to respond to your DM CaliDude but when I hit send it looks like the message disappears and is not in my sent folder, so I will post it here, complete with all the disclaimers you need to post to not get flammed:
Could be slides dried out, but that usually creates uneven wear, not a lockup. I would be inclined to assume the caliper seized.
Get yourself a set of slotted/drilled rotors with pads from summitracing or amazon. Powerstop comes to mind. I think last time I bought a set for a 2500hd it was about $280. You will also need the extra pads for the rear ebrake, which is a drum inside the rear rotors. The ebrake is pretty worthless on this truck so that is up to you. If you can find a better deal on non-slotted/drilled, no reason to only go for the slotted/drilled. I like them, but its a debated topic. Your choice.
And of course at least one caliper. I think I spent about $80 on one from Napa auto parts. A Tech2 tool will help with the bleeding procedure, but you can get by without one.
My truck does not have traction control.
ABS should only release braking when a wheel that loses traction to prevent skids. Traction control usually applies braking to avoid skids in combination with ABS functions. I would assume this is not what caused the lockup. These are high level generalizations that do not apply to all vehicles, but rather my understanding of the varying types of traction control available to GM trucks back then. These are assumptions based on the data available.
Those harnesses are cheap assuming it is the section that has a harness connector on each side between the hub and vehicle harness. $20 at dmaxstore.com but often comes with a replacement hub/bearing. Which brings me to the next item...
If you are getting side to side play, it usually is the bearing. That being said, how you tested for the movement is important, and it could be the ball joints you were feeling(up to down).
Replacement hubs/bearings in my experience also usually come with the ABS harness. You might want to verify and just ensure you get it either way rather than repairing.
Wont effect smog, but a safety concern. Also, your truck shouldn't be flowing huge amounts of fuel out the return unless you have injector issues, or the FPR was modified poorly. Shouldn't effect smog, so maybe just keep an eye on the leak for now until you have less on your plate. I would opt to fix immediately.
This can be scary. There are many components to the EGR system. Depending on how they did the delete, it could be a few parts or many. The EGR cooler mounts to a ybridge that is specific to the EGR vehicles. If they swapped that out to remove the cooler without the need for a block plate, you are going to need a enough parts to warrant looking at a diagram and identifying what all you are missing. Solenoids, vacuum pump, baro sensor, egr valve, egr cooler, ybridge, etc.
Is the vaccum pump still present? If so, is the belt still moving it when the truck is being ran but the vaccum line simply capped off? Or did they replace the belt with a shorter one and leave it in? Not sure if that last one is possible, never personally seen a vehicle with it left in and a short belt installed, or attempted to do the same.