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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
May be lil long post but I just did a profab egr delete truck was still warm not hot, lost a good amount of coolant as I would think. Added some dexcool maybe at most half gallon, then drove off no low coolant light and heat was fine. So we're 4 days later and I plugged my truck in last night and today was 30+ all day so I started it up let it run for a few min came out and it was still blowing cold air!! Got a code p0181 I believe. And I noticed some coolant was purging out of the overflow? Went to see what the code was then came out started it agin and no leak and hot air now. Now I left work at 2am and was 3F out,got warm air right off and mins later still at idle cold air again! Drove in the yard twice warm air then cold when I parked, third time was warm from start and got great heat when going home? Think it could b lots of air getting in from my egr delete and not bleeding or doin it when fluid was cold? Also maybe the thermo stats playing a roll sticking???? Again no issues before I did the delete
 

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Did you open the bleed vavle in the t-stat housing to burp the system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No I didn't, had no clue were it was or it had one,very very new to these rigs...came from powerstroke. What's the process?
 

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If I remember right it's the front most bolt in the t-stat housing it's a short bolt that only goes into the housing not through it. Pull it and fill your system with that out to burp any air out. If you search I'm pretty sure C20Elephant has posted some good pics of the correct bolt to pull.
 

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Correct. To the right of the Oil Fill tube is your cast cover for both T-stats. The bolt in the front top center is the bleed port.



Open that (remove the bolt) as you're adding coolant to the surge tank. Once coolant level reaches that, return the bolt and continue filling the surge tank to the proper level.

At that point, you will still need to drive it at full op temp to cycle the T-stats, which will purge even more air from the system. In hot/warm temperatures, this can take several days of morning top-offs to the surge tank with more coolant.

Since where you're at is so cold, you're most likely having difficulty reaching full op temp and cycling the T-stats, hence the erratic heat action. I wouldn't bother with the T-stat bleed port at this point. Just keep the surge tank coolant level topped off full. You may have already purged all trapped air, or it may take several more days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I def missed a important step during my egr delete...purge all that air I likely got!
 

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Any time you lose coolant, from a leak, flush or otherwise. You don't 'have to' use it, but it simplifies things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It won't hurt driving it while there's in air in the system? Also how do u test the res cap to see that it's working properly? And I just went out to look at it felt the head and after 5-1/2 hrs still not as cold as I'd think can squeeze the hose but had some air in the line when I took off the cap?
 

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No problems, just erratic heat inside.
You may very well have already purged any trapped air be now with driving.

Just keep the surge tank full.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, Is the cold full mark halfway on the tank a true accurate level ? I know I had to get a updated cap and a new sticker from the dealer on my coolant level mark for my 6.0 lol
 

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Just above the seam is what I go for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ah I see thank u guys! Will see how long she wants to clear out every pocket
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok update is I think it's finally lost all air about week later, few purges and drove down the highway with my plow on blocking cold air and I def got both thermostats opened lol!! Back to normal thanks for the help everyone
 
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