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After removing the gear, you have access to the pump. On the side of the pump, there is an oil feed line. Pull this out of the pump, being sure to note the o-ring that is in the female portion, where the line inserts. This will need to be seated in the bore during reinstallation.
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The pump can now be slid off the shaft. There are 6 t-15 screws that hold the pump together. Remove these from the stock pump plate and remove both portions of the gerotor. It's a good idea to keep the same orientation, meaning keep the gears facing the same way when you reinstall them. I'm a stickler for cleaning everything before i put it back together, and i recommend using some brake parts cleaner to clean everything and dry it up nice at this point.
here's the inside of the pump, with the top plate flipped upside down.
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After cleaning the threads of the 6 torx screws, apply the supplied blue loctite. Lube the gerotor gears with some fresh ATF and drop them into the new pump plate. Mate the top plate and bottom plates of the pump together, orienting the triangular and rectangular cut-outs so they align. these cutouts can be seen in the above image, it's simple.
Install the torx screws. Once the bevelled shoulder begin to make contact with the top plate, tighten them incrementally to align the plates. Merchant's instructions say that the screws can be torqued to 80 in-lbs, but i think you will strip the aluminum if you go that tight! I think 30ish sounds more realistic, but i just tightened them by hand with a quarter-drive ratchet. If you've worked on a few things in your day, you can get a feel for how tight things ought to be. that's called a calibrated elbow.
Now it's time to put it all back together. Slide the pump onto the shaft, pop the oil line back into the pump, again ensuring that the o-ring is seated in the bore.
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Slide the gear back onto the shaft. The tapered edge of the gear goes on bottom and the smooth lip goes on top, as shown here.
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Slide the bearing back onto the shaft, then reinstall the c-clip. Ensure that the c-clip is fully seated in its notch. i like to tap on them with a screwdriver just to be sure.
Before you put the case halves back together, clean the mating surface well with a rag and brake parts cleaner. They don't require a gasket and come from the factory with a silicone sealant. So make sure the surfaces are good and clean and oil free, then apply a bead of RTV along the edge. Don't put too much as it will bead into the case, and could get sucked up into the oil line, obstructing it. Merchant's says to apply a 3/16" bead; i personally just rub it on with my finger, then go back around the inside of the mating surface with my finger and clean away all the rtv to about 1/3 the distance from the inside of the mating surface. this should keep most of the silicone from getting squished in when you torque the bolts back down.
Now it's time to put the case halves back together. Slide the shaft in the bore carefully, put the bolts back in and be sure you get the brackets back where they go. Torque to 40 ft-lbs in a cross-pattern.
Now you'll want to reinstall the c-clip on the reluctor gear. This is done reverse of the disassembly instruction. Spread the clip with snapring plyers and gently pry the gear back. As you do this, note the notch where the c-clip rests in the case to help with alignment.
Now reinstall the speed sensor (don't overtorque it!) and the rubber plug. The tcase is now ready to be reinstalled into your truck, the reverse of how you took it out.
The pump can now be slid off the shaft. There are 6 t-15 screws that hold the pump together. Remove these from the stock pump plate and remove both portions of the gerotor. It's a good idea to keep the same orientation, meaning keep the gears facing the same way when you reinstall them. I'm a stickler for cleaning everything before i put it back together, and i recommend using some brake parts cleaner to clean everything and dry it up nice at this point.
here's the inside of the pump, with the top plate flipped upside down.
After cleaning the threads of the 6 torx screws, apply the supplied blue loctite. Lube the gerotor gears with some fresh ATF and drop them into the new pump plate. Mate the top plate and bottom plates of the pump together, orienting the triangular and rectangular cut-outs so they align. these cutouts can be seen in the above image, it's simple.
Install the torx screws. Once the bevelled shoulder begin to make contact with the top plate, tighten them incrementally to align the plates. Merchant's instructions say that the screws can be torqued to 80 in-lbs, but i think you will strip the aluminum if you go that tight! I think 30ish sounds more realistic, but i just tightened them by hand with a quarter-drive ratchet. If you've worked on a few things in your day, you can get a feel for how tight things ought to be. that's called a calibrated elbow.
Now it's time to put it all back together. Slide the pump onto the shaft, pop the oil line back into the pump, again ensuring that the o-ring is seated in the bore.
Slide the gear back onto the shaft. The tapered edge of the gear goes on bottom and the smooth lip goes on top, as shown here.
Slide the bearing back onto the shaft, then reinstall the c-clip. Ensure that the c-clip is fully seated in its notch. i like to tap on them with a screwdriver just to be sure.
Before you put the case halves back together, clean the mating surface well with a rag and brake parts cleaner. They don't require a gasket and come from the factory with a silicone sealant. So make sure the surfaces are good and clean and oil free, then apply a bead of RTV along the edge. Don't put too much as it will bead into the case, and could get sucked up into the oil line, obstructing it. Merchant's says to apply a 3/16" bead; i personally just rub it on with my finger, then go back around the inside of the mating surface with my finger and clean away all the rtv to about 1/3 the distance from the inside of the mating surface. this should keep most of the silicone from getting squished in when you torque the bolts back down.
Now it's time to put the case halves back together. Slide the shaft in the bore carefully, put the bolts back in and be sure you get the brackets back where they go. Torque to 40 ft-lbs in a cross-pattern.
Now you'll want to reinstall the c-clip on the reluctor gear. This is done reverse of the disassembly instruction. Spread the clip with snapring plyers and gently pry the gear back. As you do this, note the notch where the c-clip rests in the case to help with alignment.
Now reinstall the speed sensor (don't overtorque it!) and the rubber plug. The tcase is now ready to be reinstalled into your truck, the reverse of how you took it out.
