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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Was just talking to a shop about my bad injectors that are already out being replaced - he suggested I do the ice-pick mod while I had them all out regardless of any issues. Now I see why - thanks for this!
Yeah man! Throw some dielectric grease in there also to keep the connections clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
What about just replacing the pins? I work for an international dealer I see this all the time but we always replace them. Or would that require replacing the harness? Do they sell an updated injector harness?
The biggest reason the ice pick is done is it squeezes the female end down real tight. When the male end is put it end forces the female connection pin open- but only the minimum amount necessary so it stays tight.

Ben at BT Diesel Works sells an updated harness for the typical problem connectors for about $99
 

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Thanks for the great write up. 35 miles out of town, 6 miles out on dirt roads, luckily with a faint 3G signal and I was able to fix my truck. Started it up to go to town, and it started idling rough, error codes p0202 and p2140 pointing to #2 injector and group B injectors. Got on the forum and found this thread. Drove the truck about 80 miles, so far so good. Would have $ucked to have had to call the towing company and get the out here.

Roger
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Thanks for the great write up. 35 miles out of town, 6 miles out on dirt roads, luckily with a faint 3G signal and I was able to fix my truck. Started it up to go to town, and it started idling rough, error codes p0202 and p2140 pointing to #2 injector and group B injectors. Got on the forum and found this thread. Drove the truck about 80 miles, so far so good. Would have $ucked to have had to call the towing company and get the out here.

Roger
Woah!!

That's awesome! Glad it got you up and running!! The little things like that makes it worth the time and effort to do these write ups! I'm sure it took awhile to load with the weak signal because of all the pictures.. haha

Anways glad it got you back up and running!!
 

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Thanks brokesmoke for the info, glad I came across this I run a lot of gravel roads, way out of town like rtbadman im bound to run into this at some point with 160k on the truck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Thanks brokesmoke for the info, glad I came across this I run a lot of gravel roads, way out of town like rtbadman im bound to run into this at some point with 160k on the truck!!
Absolutely!Chances are it will happen- usually when you least want it to. At least you are educated on what to look for so you can assess and repair the side of the road instead of paying shop labor charges to fix it.
 

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it'll be a cold day in hell before my truck gets fixed by anyone else, I've spent too much time in the industry to trust other folks with my baby lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
it'll be a cold day in hell before my truck gets fixed by anyone else, I've spent too much time in the industry to trust other folks with my baby lol
That's why i have more tools than sense.

I know exactly where you are coming from. I don't trust anyone.
 
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brokesmoke, Thank you very much for taking the time to put this together and thank you to all the folks that have posted solutions for codes. My wife and I were on our way back from racing out of town when the truck just died at 50MPH. We have only had the truck about 7 months and being it is a 2005 with only 103K on it we didnt know it well. It has been acting a little funny but never would throw a code to help me troublshoot it. I did read the article about the wiring by the alternator and sure enough it had just started rubbing through so I fixed that. I had an idea when it died that what described in this How-To might be the problem. While we were waiting for AAA to come get the truck I pulled out the scanner and checked for codes. Sure enough! finally codes appeared. It was overwhelming because it threw code 1294, 2146, 2149 and 0201 - 0208. I thought well its more than just the #2 & #7 injector plug. I printed a couple of the close up pics that broeksmoke included in his how-to and went out to work on the truck. I figured at least I can do the ice pick trick, then see if anything else it bad. #2 was fairly easy to do but #7 was a small PIA. I removed the inner fender skirt and was able to get right to it and ice pick it. I then put the scanner back on and cleared all the codes. I waited a minute then fired the truck up. It ran beautiful! I decided to recruit the wife by offering her a mini shopping spree up town. She jumped on that not knowing I was going to follow her and would have her there in case the truck acted up again. Well out we went and the truck ran like a dream the entire time. It even ran quieter and smoother. Temps were somewhat cooler and it was more responsive. Like brokesmoke says, "We are all new to the Duramax at one point". Again thank you to everyone who has posted about this and special thanks to brokesmoke for the great tutorial. This and all the posts should be made into a sticky for all of us new guys!

Oh! for you guys wondering what this cost me, it was about $300 for the shopping spree. Much cheaper than taking it to a shop, so I also came out a winner and have a happy wife!
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
brokesmoke, Thank you very much for taking the time to put this together and thank you to all the folks that have posted solutions for codes. My wife and I were on our way back from racing out of town when the truck just died at 50MPH. We have only had the truck about 7 months and being it is a 2005 with only 103K on it we didnt know it well. It has been acting a little funny but never would throw a code to help me troublshoot it. I did read the article about the wiring by the alternator and sure enough it had just started rubbing through so I fixed that. I had an idea when it died that what described in this How-To might be the problem. While we were waiting for AAA to come get the truck I pulled out the scanner and checked for codes. Sure enough! finally codes appeared. It was overwhelming because it threw code 1294, 2146, 2149 and 0201 - 0208. I thought well its more than just the #2 & #7 injector plug. I printed a couple of the close up pics that broeksmoke included in his how-to and went out to work on the truck. I figured at least I can do the ice pick trick, then see if anything else it bad. #2 was fairly easy to do but #7 was a small PIA. I removed the inner fender skirt and was able to get right to it and ice pick it. I then put the scanner back on and cleared all the codes. I waited a minute then fired the truck up. It ran beautiful! I decided to recruit the wife by offering her a mini shopping spree up town. She jumped on that not knowing I was going to follow her and would have her there in case the truck acted up again. Well out we went and the truck ran like a dream the entire time. It even ran quieter and smoother. Temps were somewhat cooler and it was more responsive. Like brokesmoke says, "We are all new to the Duramax at one point". Again thank you to everyone who has posted about this and special thanks to brokesmoke for the great tutorial. This and all the posts should be made into a sticky for all of us new guys!

Oh! for you guys wondering what this cost me, it was about $300 for the shopping spree. Much cheaper than taking it to a shop, so I also came out a winner and have a happy wife!
Too cool!!
Seeing amd reading these kind of posts make it all worth it. I'm happy to have done it and overjoyed at all the people this has helped out! I may go back and add the specific CEL codes for each cylinder so people know where to start. As these LLY trucks get older this will probably start happening more and more for more people.

Money well spent on the shopping trip! It always goes over much easier spending money on the wives and girlfriends than it does on your truck!
 

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Brokesmoke I think too that listing the associated faults would be the only thing left to make this write up perfect!
 
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Thank you!!

One more thank you to everyone... I buy and sell a lot of Duramax trucks and have yet to have one lay down on me - until this week! Bought an 05 CC/SB with 260k in KY and drove it home to IN. Nobody following, no tools, wondering the whole 240 miles why it was so cheap until I got 25 miles from home. Lol. Started running on 4, sounded like my Isuzu NPR box truck. Scared the hell out of me until I pulled over and thought about it for a second. Pulled out my little scanner and realized I had a problem on #8. Pulled the connector, put it back on and I was off to the races for another 10 miles. Frantically, sitting on the side of the road, I started looking for anything i could use to poke the connector because my tools were in my truck which was ALREADY HOME! The only two things in the truck were a paperclip and a pair of pliers, the jack, and a bottle of water. I sharpened the paperclip on the A/C compressor (Not recommended at all) and held it with the pair of pliers (after burning the S*** out of my hand without them). Dumped my bottle of water on anything hot on that side of the motor to cool things down and went to town. I couldn't push the paperclip through the connector at first, so I got it good and red hot with the cigarette lighter in the truck and melted two small holes in the connector. Once I had the holes made, I pushed the paperclip as hard as I could without bending it. Stabbed at it a few times, stuck her back on. Fired the truck up and has been running perfect ever since. When I got home I pulled my picks out and finished the rest of them off. Thanks to everyone here for keeping me rolling. Now, anyone want a good truck with #8, #2, and #7 fixed??? Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
One more thank you to everyone... I buy and sell a lot of Duramax trucks and have yet to have one lay down on me - until this week! Bought an 05 CC/SB with 260k in KY and drove it home to IN. Nobody following, no tools, wondering the whole 240 miles why it was so cheap until I got 25 miles from home. Lol. Started running on 4, sounded like my Isuzu NPR box truck. Scared the hell out of me until I pulled over and thought about it for a second. Pulled out my little scanner and realized I had a problem on #8. Pulled the connector, put it back on and I was off to the races for another 10 miles. Frantically, sitting on the side of the road, I started looking for anything i could use to poke the connector because my tools were in my truck which was ALREADY HOME! The only two things in the truck were a paperclip and a pair of pliers, the jack, and a bottle of water. I sharpened the paperclip on the A/C compressor (Not recommended at all) and held it with the pair of pliers (after burning the S*** out of my hand without them). Dumped my bottle of water on anything hot on that side of the motor to cool things down and went to town. I couldn't push the paperclip through the connector at first, so I got it good and red hot with the cigarette lighter in the truck and melted two small holes in the connector. Once I had the holes made, I pushed the paperclip as hard as I could without bending it. Stabbed at it a few times, stuck her back on. Fired the truck up and has been running perfect ever since. When I got home I pulled my picks out and finished the rest of them off. Thanks to everyone here for keeping me rolling. Now, anyone want a good truck with #8, #2, and #7 fixed??? Lol.
Sounds like some mcgyver engineering there. Glad you got it all sorted out and rolling again. Beats the hell out of calling a wrecker.
 

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Great writeup

I have a 06 lly. I've been told it's the LBZ engine with LLY tune. So, does this mean my injector harness is the updated LBZ version or the older LLY version? The balance rates for #2 and #7 are never the same and all over the place. It runs fine but it has a little haze at idle and smokes at startup. Could this be because of a poor connection at these injectors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Great writeup

I have a 06 lly. I've been told it's the LBZ engine with LLY tune. So, does this mean my injector harness is the updated LBZ version or the older LLY version? The balance rates for #2 and #7 are never the same and all over the place. It runs fine but it has a little haze at idle and smokes at startup. Could this be because of a poor connection at these injectors?

@Gabacho loco
If it's an 06 then you should have the updated harness and LBZ engine that simply has an LLY tune on it. I would recommend doing the GM upper engine fuel injector cleaner. It helped straighten out alot of my quirky balance rates.
 

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Hey I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the connector off of #7 any tricks? I tried from the top and side but can't get a good grip on it while pulling. Please help
 

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I know I am picking up an old thread. This finally happened to me yesterday. After over 15 years since the truck was manufactured. I was in a hurry so did this instead:

Basically pushing the female connector in and crimping it. I still have some questions about either method:

1. Does this mean that the injector is confirmed good and its just the connector ? Or is it that the FICM relearned to run it with 7 injectors instead.
2. My codes are staying on even after clearing them (P0207 and P2146). Truck runs fine and no longer have the tractor sound. Should replacing with new pigtail connector help remove the codes ?
3. Whats the difference between the two methods ? One shown on youtube vs one shown in this thread ?
4. Should I even bother to do anything after the icepick fix ? I mean its crimped on good and don't see point on changing the pigtail or the harness.
 
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