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I'm actually getting mine done shortly...and I was told that anything under a 680 resistor is not good to use... I guess it was tested by SuperBrightLeds and a 12V car battery has consistent jumps to 14.2 volts......they said anything smaller than a 680 can cause shorts, blowouts, smoke, high heat that could possibly melt plastic/rubber around switches, etc..

And I actually also talked to some other people and read on different forums the same thing...
 

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I got my blue 5mm 360 degree from superbriteleds.com and they have a resistor calculator. I punched in all the info and it said to use a 470 ohm resistor. I am no wizard on this stuff but I had 470 ohm on first and then switched to 330 ohm and they were much briter, I would think with a 680 on there they are not going to be that brite at all. I have read that it also depends on the manufacturer of the LED itself on what size of resistor should be used. Who knows, I guess time will only tell. Everyone will have to update there situations to see who's combinations last the longest and who's have failed. Good Luck to all!
I actually used the same Calc.....but the guy from phone support said to change the voltage from 12 to 14 because of spikes in power....when I had the 12 volt in, it told me 470 as well. Either way, I don't think you'll have issues....worse case is they burn out and you replace them.
 

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OK....I did my entire truck today, except for the HVAC and Steering Wheel Controls...because I ran out of LEDs....didn't realize there was more than 25! But on that note.....DIRT EASY....WOW. I used Red L.E.D's with a 680 resistor.....they are perfect for me, because I wanted something easy on the eyes, and the red is GREAT! For $35.00 in parts, this is a must for anyone.....and the weird thing is....I thought taking out the cluster was going to be the hardest part.....and it turns out it was the easiest!

EDIT: On another note....people keep talking about using test lights, electrical testers, etc.... Just take one of your LED's....solder a resistor on the positive side (which you have to do anyways with every one you have) and then just go out and try them either way...you will eventually find out which is which, and you don't have to worry about finding grounds, etc.... Just tap tap!
 

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How did you go about doin the 4wd switches? did you do the window switches to?
Yeah, I did both of them....

The 4X4 switch was really easy... All you do is Start the truck....hold your foot on the brake...then pull your shifter down as far as it will go.....pop off the piece that covers your stereo/HVAC/4X4/etc.....then put it back in park....look down by your OBDII port and there is 2 screws holding the big piece on under the steering wheel....pop that off....then the 4X4/headlights/foglights just pops right out....only 2 screws in the whole process. Then just be careful taking apart the 4X4, etc.. because they are just thin plastic.

As for the window switches.....you need to check the DIY section for a write up that Towmaster did on removing the doors.....after you take them off, the switches are REALLY easy to get to. Both rears and passenger were DIRT easy...because they are 1 circuit board, and after you attach the LED, you just pop a hole in the thin rubber and run the LED up through the middle of the switch. Now the driver side is a different story...you have to be pretty creative with your soldering because there is 2 circuitboards stacked on top of each other, and the glow comes from inbetween the boards. Also...it might be best to use a 330 resistor in the driver door, due to it needs to be pretty bright.
 

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Yes a resistor for every bulb....you attach it to the positive side (longer side) of the LED....and total bulbs? I THINK mine had about 10-15.....I just got like 45 for my whole truck and used them all.....if I were you i'd order about 50.
 

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My entire truck is 5mm 360 degree LEDs from superbrightLEDs.. I wired in 470ohm resistors, and it's been that way for years.. zero issues.
 

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Question for all you electronic wizards. If I am planning on replacing all of my dimmable 12 volt bulbs with the 360 degree LEDs from superbrightLEDs. Instead of putting a 470 ohm resister on each LED, why couldn’t a guy insert a 470 ohm resister on the actual dimmer switch in series? I would think that would drop your voltage down that is required for everything in that circuit?
Its a little more complicated than that.. The front doors for example, there is an aux power lead feeding power to the motherboard.. The lights and dimmer work off the computer system and not the dimmer switch itself. So if you piped a 470 resistor on that wire you would be cutting power for everything in that door.. Which is bad.


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