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I am gonna have to re-read this whole thread and reconsider doing this. The unlevel mirors are getting annoying.
 
OK I read it all once again, and now I get the whole picture, I think. C20 thanks for those pics, makes all the difference in the world for me. I am VERY visually oriented.

That fender washer when in place, is what boosts the spring pressure, I am assuming. I see you used the nylon piece instead of the washers. I can see the advantage in that there would be no up and down movement, that a few mentioned.

Were the longer bolts NEEDED? How many threads were holding them on the original bolts? Also, if you remember, what size were those top bolts? Metric?

Thanks guys for the great follow ups with new improvements.
 
OK I read it all once again, and now I get the whole picture, I think. C20 thanks for those pics, makes all the difference in the world for me. I am VERY visually oriented.

That fender washer when in place, is what boosts the spring pressure, "behind the spring yes" I am assuming. I see you used the nylon piece instead of the washers."I used the nylon plus 2 washers" I can see the advantage in that there would be no up and down movement, that a few mentioned.

Were the longer bolts NEEDED? "Yes for maximum thread engagement" How many threads were holding them on the original bolts? "Not enough for me" Also, if you remember, what size were those top bolts? Metric? "Yes metric I added lock washers and had to cut the bolt"

Thanks guys for the great follow ups with new improvements.
IF you purchase longer bolts be sure and thread them in BEFORE trying to install the whole assembly. The nylon is added along with washers. Not sure about others but have read some have had vibration issues, I have absolutely none after doing this.
I added a fender washer in the picture below in addition to the two washers at the friction plate.

My opinion of this modification was the looks were second, by leveling the mirrors the view has changed substantially and difficult to describe. and much better IMHO these mirrors were designed prior to the body change 2006-2007 and were meant for the NBS not the OBS but fit. Look at some NBS truck the mirrors sit level. Although the part number may be different I'll bet the mounting bolt pattern is the same just not the electrical connections

The first picture is a must, drop the nut and never to be seen again unless you pull the door panel. I added a fender washer just for the last bit of leveling. Any more than one washer on this stud just not a good idea IMHO. You could probably get by using the OEM bolts with just one washer behind the hold down plate and one at the pictures below.....:thumb

Edit, I went back and looked at DMAXfirefighter's pictures. the bolts he has in his mirrors are substantially longer than the ones in mine, (mine were 1/2 or less than that in length) sorry for the confusion about the bolts as mine did not have much for thread engagement if I added the two washers...
 

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Thanks, the last picture (drawing?) cleared up the location of the fender washer. I HAD wondered about just building that area out, but I also know that can affect the air/water seal between mirror and body.

As for the secondary reason being looks, I agree 100%. My annoyance comes when I hook up my 5th wheel and the world behind is "slanted". I had also wondered why the angles were not corrected . I kept thinking "why the heck do you design mirrors to hang upward?" Didn't make sense, but now it sort of does. I'm sure the bean counters could not justify a whole new design, when they KNEW a new body style was around the corner.

I will look mine over before buying any new bolts. Getting kinda familiar with this mirror thing. I adapted a set of 2001 flip up tow mirrors onto my 2006 Tundra when I had it. Those too, were angled up, but not as much as these are. I really didn't notice it on the Tundra until I flipped the tow mirrors up.

I will be looking into mine tomorrow, or sometime this week, for sure. I have an 18 x 18ft pergola to paint this week.
 
Started to take a look at mine today. Note to stupid self, make sure you support mirror BEFORE taking all 4 bolts. What an idiot. I hope those black marks come out.

Looks like it will be an easy job to level.
 
Well I got them adjusted and so far am VERY pleased. They seem tight, but will have to do a road test tomorrow to test for "wiggles". It's too dark out now, but tomorrow I will have to attempt to get the plastic cover back on. Trimmed the top of drivers side till there is virtually zero lip and when I fold the mirror in and then bring it back out, it pops off. seems like the top arm is pushing it off, but will wait for daylight to be sure.
 
OK, I got out this morning, when I could actually SEE something, and it took about 10 min to get it trimmed to fit. But before I finished it off, I took them both back off and put another washer behind the spring, just in case. I do not want to be on a trip with the 5ver and have the mirrors fold up on me at 65 in high winds. RV'ing has enough of it's own excitement, without ME adding to it.

Dmaxfirefighter, THANKS for starting this thread. ANOTHER GREAT DIY idea. I love this site for it's helpful and knowledgeable folks. Keep those great ideas coming.

Now if I could just get Bballer182's turbo brake to work on MY truck, I'd be even more thrilled. One more hurdle to overcome!
 
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Got em out for some test runs, and what a HUGE difference in the view behind, plus they are rock solid. Before I had to "study" what I was looking at to be sure of clearances etc, but now it's instant. Depth perception is greatly improved and an added bonus I wasn't expecting, when ya wash the truck, the mirrors actually DRAIN now after you spray them off. Before there was a corner full of water that always came out after it was dried off.
 
Looks were secondary for me, makes a lot of difference in what you can see. Mine vibrated due to a driveline carrier/support bearing and it was rather hypnotic and dizzying to try and look at them for more than a few seconds ....:thumb
 
I meant what I could see BEHIND me, not looking at the mirrors.

I have had add on tow mirrors that did that before and it drives you crazy.
 
I absolutely can not get my cover off, even my smallest screw driver wont slide up to fit in...
 
That's the side of the mirror I'm trying but even my smallest flathead barely fits in and is messing up the plastic...

I'm going to try again tomorrow. What size and gauge washers are best?
 
Try a small bladed knife, or a razor knife, that's what I used and there was only a small barely noticeable scratch on one piece. If you have a jewelers set try one of those. Doesn't take much pressure once it's in the right spot.
 
I gotta do this when I get home. The angled up mirror drive me crazy too. Thanks dmax firefighter for startin this thread. Been wantin to do this but didn't know it was this easy. And thanks every body else for other helpful pics.
 
Just did the mirror levelin job. Looks so much better.
 
On a different note, is it possible to "un-level" the nnbs tow mirrors. I like the look of the ones on the obs's, mickey mouse ears people say.
 
On a different note, is it possible to "un-level" the nnbs tow mirrors. I like the look of the ones on the obs's, mickey mouse ears people say.
We'll I guess if u wanted u could put two washers on the bottom two bolts instead of the top two. As u can c in the pics that C20ELEPHANT posted just do the opposite. Dunno if that will work but don't know of another way.
 
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