Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums
Status
Not open for further replies.

How To: LLY EGR Delete

Jump to Latest
307K views 224 replies 81 participants last post by  flynn78us  
#1 · (Edited)
First off, I used the EGR Delete Tube and EGR Cap from ProFab, awesome pieces, quality work IMO, and the fit and finish is great.

You will need to get about 2 feet of 5/8 heater hose as well and some misc nuts and bolts(the nuts and bolts are personal preference this is just how i did mine). Also, now would be a good time to reroute your pcv if you havent already so keep those parts in mind.

Remove the Resonator Box and the Turbo Mouthpiece.

pull the black harness back a bit so you can work, be carefull with the harness. I didnt have the mp out yet in the pic.
Image




remove these nuts and bolts(the ones with red arrows can be seen in the pic, the ones with blue arrows you cant really see here)
Image




after the bolts are out, pull the harness on top towards the front of the truck and remove, then it should like something like this.
Image




note the filthy rubber boot
Image




Now remove the four bolts/nuts on the back of the egr cooler, they are kind of a pain in the ass but have patience. The top two are studs with nuts on em, i hade one stud come out with the nut, the other one just the nut came off and i had to get creative to get the stud out so i could remove the cooler.
top arrow is the cooler hose you will be replacing, bottom two arrows show where to look for the bolt/nuts.
Image




this pic shows where the heater hose will be going, and also what you will see one you wiggle the cooler out.
Image




and this is where the cap is gonna go, you will want to get some bolts and nuts to get the cap locked down, i used some stuff i had layin around since the cap will just be temporary until i get my new up pipes. dont forget the gasket. i used two nuts on the bottom to keep from backing off(kinda ******* but its just temporary)
Image

Image




now slap the delete tube in there with the gasket and cinch er down, i had to cut the bolt on the left down, and the one on the right needs a space for the tab that holds the coolant line.
Image


I ziptied the ficm harness box back down and taped the egr harness out of the way afterwards. Put the mp and resonator box back on, install the intake and your done.

ps, its late, im tired, i will clean this post up tomorrow(spelling, and double check it makes sense).
 
#2 ·
Nice post! Looking at doing the same thing.
 
Save
Like Like
#3 ·
awesome post, i was thinking about doing it and now i decided i will.
 
Save
Like Like
#4 ·
Not sure if I missed it, but how long did it take to complete?
 
Save
Like Like
#7 ·
it was about 3 hours, i actually thought the egr delete was way easier than the downpipe install.

kman2468 said:
ok what could you possibly fit in the back behind up pipe to get the bolts out of egr? i can not fit my fat hand back there
Click to expand...
im all of about 160 lbs soaking wet, so i was sitting in the engine compartment:rof that helped a bit...

and these helped a ton
SAE Ratcheting Combo Wrench Set - 7 Piece
 
  • Like
Reactions: 507Sledz
Save
Like Like
#8 ·
Good write up man. so the 3rd pic down. The 2 ports that are rectangular. Is there anything that covers them after the tube delete?
 
Save
Like Like
#11 ·
This is the same delete tube I used, it fit perfect and looks sooooo much cleaner under the hood.
 
Save
Like Like
#12 ·
amen to that, i was looking at the stuff i took out, what a bunch of garbage!
 
Save
Like Like
#13 ·
How much? Nice write up!
 
Save
Like Like
M
#15 · (Edited)
suck-squeeze-bang-blow said:
How much?
Click to expand...
You need the following:

If you decide to change your up pipe at the same time, you don't need the EGR Cap.

In which case you'll need:
  • LB7 Up pipe - GM P/N 97223166
  • Gaskets (manifold and turbo, if you don't reuse the old ones)
  • Bolts (if your old hardware is unusable, careful with the turbo bolts as they can break)
 
Save
Like Like
M
#14 ·
Very nice writeup, I was looking at doing the same thing myself.

Did you notice any performance or MPG difference after?
 
Save
Like Like
#22 ·
hey did it make it run any better? i was gonna use plywood,zipties, and dryer hose for my delete kit but cant find any plywood damn wind blew it all away.
 
Save
Like Like
#23 ·
definitely spools faster, before i could only limp the tranny on my big tune, now it limps on the smaller tune haha

but i did the egr delete on wed night, and the downpipe on thurs night, so its a combo effect, but it feels amazing!
 
Save
Like Like
#33 ·
Good write up!
Did it help your fuel mileage at all?
 
Save
Like Like
#24 ·
guess im gonna order this stuff if my up pipe ever shows up, dude supposedly mailed it last week. hurricane probly flooded the mail truck out. your tranny sounds as happy as mine.
 
Save
Like Like
M
#25 ·
Just took the plunge myself, looking forward to getting this on soon and then see how those bigger tunes do!
 
Save
Like Like
#27 ·
as long as i dont drive like an idiot, the trans will be fine.

i will be towing my big enclosed this weekend, im excited to see how it does with the trailer loaded down and the tow tune.
 
Save
Like Like
#30 ·
just got done installing my pro fab EGR delete and up pipe cap. think my up pipe is leaking. i also noticed my boost doesn't go past 28psi. use to go to 30psi. might be from the leak.
 
M
#31 ·
First clean all the mating surfaces well with brake cleaner and then use some high temp silicone (orange) on the gasket to seal your leak.
 
Save
Like Like
#34 ·
everything looks great, awesome writeup.
whats the major difference between this and just using an egr blocker plate+finger stick. besides cleaning un-needed junk off the motor, any specific reasons?
 
Save
Like Like
M
#35 ·
Less heat transfer to the cooling system (because EGR is completely removed) and better airflow through intake tube (better for higher HP).
 
Save
Like Like
M
#37 ·
Hazy said:
is replacing the up pipe recommended??? or necessary?
Click to expand...

Personally I would swap out the up pipe for an LB7 version (has no riser on it at all since the LB7 had no EGR system) provided you don't need to swap back in your EGR system for annual inspections. Those bolts at the back of the turbo are a major PITA and you only want to do that job once, believe me. Overall it's not going to give you any major perfromance gains until you start making high HP/torque numbers though.
 
Save
Like Like
H
#38 ·
Sweet, I was just worried about using the block off plate for flow reasons. I was told the egr block off could get me better mpg. But I already have PPE standard which turns off the egr right?


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
M
#41 ·
Hazy said:
Sweet, I was just worried about using the block off plate for flow reasons. I was told the egr block off could get me better mpg. But I already have PPE standard which turns off the egr right?
Click to expand...

Yes, the PPE can turn off the EGR codes, should work fine.
 
Save
Like Like
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
posts
3.9M
members
230K
Since
2005
A forum community dedicated to Chevy and GMC Duramax diesel owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about modifications, towing, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Discussions 01-04.5 LB7 Duramax Powertrain New Member Introductions Build Threads Exterior