so to sow things up for everyone, This wouldnt be reccomended if you dont have a canned tuner that can clear the codes, or EFI live. right? i still need to get efi live so i'll keep this on the back burner until i do. it will most definalty be the first thing on my list afterwards.

 

That is correct.

 

I was having trouble getting the other riser cap to seal (you can below see the soot marks where it was leaking, not to mention you could hear the high pitched reed sound under hard accel......esp when the truck was cold). The slots on the cap also don't help because the bolts don't have even pressure (washers were severely deformed and my lock washers were trying to squirt out the sides when tightened). So I had a friend cut out a my own design (I used the EGR cooler flange to create the pattern) for a cap on a water jet table. I had him use 1/4" thick plate steel which might be overkill, but the original flange on the EGR cooler was about that thick as well and I wanted to make sure there was zero flex. During install I cleaned up the riser with an angle grinder w/ scotch bright wheel, blew it off with an airgun, put on a new gasket (had to enlarge the gasket bolt holes to fit the 11mm bolts) and assembled it all together. I could feel the difference on the bolts when I zipped them on with my 3/8" impact gun (ie more even pressure and lock washers stayed put). Taking it out on the highway I could feel a big difference right away when I got on it.........the truck pulls HARD now! So if you do this mod and your truck still feels like the turbo's not spooling like it should, check your riser cap for leaks.

Rick, if you want my drawings to cut these out for people, I'll be happy to send them to you.

 

That is nice MTL. I attempted a DIY cap and hopefully it is holding, will take it off in a week or so to see how it is doing. Any chance I could get you cut another cap like that?

 

That is nice MTL. I attempted a DIY cap and hopefully it is holding, will take it off in a week or so to see how it is doing. Any chance I could get you cut another cap like that?

I'd prefer not to get into production if I can help it, but I can ask. It's not a big dollar item and the potential for shipping headaches is high (plus shipping from Canada isn't cheap), so basically I'd just be helping out a few members if I went and did a batch of them. Ideally someone set up for manufacturing could run with the design instead.

Cap is still working flawlessly, but the flange on my downpipe is leaking now (was pretty rusted despite being stainless, so it's not making a good seal on the front pipe now). Might be time for another upgrade again (just need to find someone that makes a 304 stainless DP......or build it myself ).

 

good pics gonna do this to mine when i get it going again

 

Thanks mine next .

 

so is the block plate for the up pipe only temporary, or is it something that can be left that way. And also what is the difference between the LB7 up pipe what does that all intail, as in how does that lb7 up pipe hook up. I am getting ready to delete my egr, but just want to know if that block plate for the up pipe is temporary or if it should be changed. Thanks again guys

 

so is the block plate for the up pipe only temporary, or is it something that can be left that way. And also what is the difference between the LB7 up pipe what does that all intail, as in how does that lb7 up pipe hook up. I am getting ready to delete my egr, but just want to know if that block plate for the up pipe is temporary or if it should be changed. Thanks again guys

Yes, the cap can be left on as a permanent solution.

The LB7 has no EGR and therefore the up pipe has no riser tube......so no need for a cap.

 

Nice right up, good work!

 

What's the main gain from this?

 

EGR = exhaust gas recirculation. Basically the truck is retaking the exhaust. Which will turn into soot buildup in your engine. ( basically )

 

so if i have the fe9 code in the glove box will it throw the code and the annoyin light?

 

FE9 code only has to do with the EGR blocker, it does not help on the EGR delete.

You need EFI or a programmer that can turn off all the EGR related codes to keep your CEL off with the EGR delete.

 

This might be a dumb question, and I apologize if it was asked already, but when you delete the EGR, what do you do with the factory plug then? Can you cut it off, or just let it dangle? Just curious what you fellas did with it.

 

Just unplug it, put some vaseline on the contacts (if you live is rust belt) and wrap it up with electrical tape.

 

I am finally going to order the parts to do mine. I am just going to go with the sinister block off kit due to the fact it is a lot cheaper than the full tube.

 

I think my EGR cooler is bad and building up pressure in my coolant system. if I delete the cooler, and I have no programmer, what do I need to do? Is my check engine light going to be on all the time?

 

I think my EGR cooler is bad and building up pressure in my coolant system. if I delete the cooler, and I have no programmer, what do I need to do? Is my check engine light going to be on all the time?

You'll need to speed up your purchase of EFI to do the EGR delete......I see it's on your list anyway.

 

Here's what I do. Come in the house cussing your damn truck and tell her it's broke and you have to fix the damn thing. 1. She will see you are pissed about it and leave you alone. 2. You get your new parts, oh, every 5 or 6 weeks or so, continuing to complain to her about your POS truck! Works every time! :drink Women just want to feel like they are in charge, so if you use a little reverse psyc on them, they don't know what hit em!:thumb

 

If I just do the EGR blocker plate, will that cure my problems or will pressure still be able to build up?

EGR blocker plate throw codes?

 

Or, make your own block off plates like I did and wire in a fingerstick. Easy as pie! Now that I have EFILive i took the fingerstick out. If you decide to go that route, let me know. I'd let you have the fingerstick real cheap!

 

Bypassed my EGR cooler with a heater hose last night. Took it for a test run, this morning, there was still some pressure but not as much. I drove it to work this morning and I will check the pressure on my way out. I also just installed my AFE Mouthpeice and did a PCV reroute last night. Fingers crossed that it is a bad EGR cooler, then I can order my delete pipe and blocker plate. and I guess so form of a programmer. . . $$$

 

I did my egr delete today. Used Sinister Diesel's kit. Wasn't that bad really. I had to shorten a couple of bolts to put there bracket on that holds the intake tube, but other than that it all went in without a hitch. Haven't been able to test drive it and find out any noticeable differences yet because i am waiting on a turbo vane position sensor since mine took a shit.

 

So you guys that are NOT doing the full delete, you just put in the blocker plate and possibly the fingerstick as well to eliminate any codes. Are you putting a gasket on either side of the blocker plate? Maybe just reusing the existing gasket?

 

I did a full delete. Took the cooler right out. The block off plates from sinister have o rings on them for the intake pipe and you reuse your exhaust gasket. I have efi to stop the codes.

 

Okay I'm doing this right now, I have it all apart and I had no gasket inbetween the Cooler and the up pipe, also the metal piece with te two bolt holes broke so now theres only te two holes on the up pipe, with the plate be okay with no gasket and only being bolted on with the two bolts going to the pipe?

 

No.

The bellow in the riser will crack for sure, I would suggest taking off the up pipe and having a good fabricating shop cut the riser all the way off and weld a plate over it. 16g 304ss material would work best and is what we use.

An LB7 model up pipe is the cleanest/easiest way to go, we sell them with our EGR delete kits and offer to purchase the factory one back from you.

 

I just did mine today, I didnt buy the delete pipe just yet (savin the cash for 5 inch stainless exhaust!!) Anyway....i've heard that the up pipe can crack if its not supported, I fab'd my plate based on tracing around the back of the egr cooler utilizing the two bolts that go to the bracket below the up pipe. As far as the intake pipe...i simply traced around the mounting surface of the egr and used 3/16 plate with a spacer in order to bolt it back to the engine to support the pipe. So far so good, I gutted the plunger in the egr solinoid and plugged ot back in ziptied to the rest of the harness. Took about 4 hrs to do it all including blow-by reroute. Noticed a BIG difference in throttle response already!!!!

 

subd

 

ok so worst case senario after i do the delete, its going to thow a code and check engine light?
like i could clear it with an edge insight? and good to go or?

 

Clearing the codes all the time is not the right way to do that mod.

You have EFI already so just shut off your EGR and block the codes with it and you'll be all set.

 

i just got a good deal on the delete pipe, so basically the only way to not get a CEL is to have EFI live correct, or will the finger stick work by "fooling" the computer? I am located in Charleston, SC. If anyone knows someone close that has EFI live i will meet up and pay for the license and tunes if not.

 

Subd