Sub'd, time to do this.

 

sub'd

 

Is this for all trucks?

 

How's everyone doing? Long time Chevy and GM owner but first time Dmax owner. LOVE the forum. Bought a 2013 two weeks ago after my buddy traded it in. It already has the DEF delete and 4" exhaust and has been flashed with an efi tune. I have put a black 5" tip on it, cut the muffler off today and deleted the resonator box a few days ago. Plan on doing the pcv reroute soon. My question is will the same parts work on a lml? And why not just run a couple feet of tube with a filter on it and zip tie it under the hood like next master cylinder instead of running it back under the frame. TIA!

 

probably a stupid question, but the parts list is:
"1/2 to 3/4 copper elbow
Barstool Cap
5/8 Heater hose
2 hose clamps
Optional 2 inch test plug".
So, why not use 1/2" to 5/8" that seems more logical as we would be using a 5/8" hose, does it not? the 1/2" appears to go into the PCV side hose, and the 3/4" is for the CCV side, so wouldn't it be more logical to either use 3/4" hose or a 5/8" adapter? or am i missing something?

 

Old Thread

Bar stool caps won't last more than a year, cracking, sucking dirt and rubber into the intake.
NEVER reduce any of the PCV lines, (PCV needs volume flow, larger hoses) if you do, your just asking for engine oil leaks.
DO NOT USE A PLUMBERS TEST PLUG, the rubber will deteriorate overtime sucking dirt and rubber chunks into the turbo/intake.

Several of us had the same stupid brain storm ideas back in 08, one using the plumbers test plug nut came loose and sucked the carriage bolt thru the turbo.
This guy just used the wing nut, I went with a steel nut and a steel jam nut to stop it from coming loose.
After I read that, I pulled mine, I didn't even have to put a wrench on it, it pulled right out, spent the $$ on quality stuff.
I was very lucky, no damage from being stupid and a cheapo.


Be smart and buy the stuff made for this, don't be cheap, spend the extra buck then you won't have to shell out $10K cost for a new motor.

 

I'm thinking about running each side independently down into my rocker panels. Constant oil vapor would combat any rust.

 

Running both sides separate is the best way, no chance of any restriction using T's.

Using a kit made for this having a professional look under the hood.
Instead of the barn yard ways shown earlier in this thread.
Which looks pretty dam hokey IMO.

 

The kit's use a T also though

 

All in all less than $50 found the barbs that bolt on directly to the valve covers and an aluminum resonator delete cap (XDP I believe) on amazon, then got multi duty hose at my local parts store, all in all less than $50 and it looks good and works right. I will say the barbs with thick hose so put a small amount of pressure on the plug just above them on the passenger side, so I ended up tieing it off to relieve the pressure, all in all it works pretty great and looks good.

 

Try expanding your search for PCV re-route kits.
The best one out there is Dirty Hooker Diesel (Allseason Diesel Performance) their kits do NOT use T's.
They was the first company that came out with reroute kits using quality stuff for a dam decent price.
I'm pretty sure I've already included this info somewhere on this thread.