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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok since this has not been done before or if it has it has been hidden in the millions of threads on this forum, I went ahead and decided to take some pics of how to remove, clean and install the radiator stack. this should pertain to all OBS trucks since I have an LBZ and it is generally the same for the LLY and LB7.

Symptoms:
1. truck is running a little hot.
2. transmission is running a little hot.
3. A/C is not quite as cold as it was before. (should be done before this http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/136547-how-clean-evap-coil.html )
4. truck is operated in dirty/dusty generally nasty conditions.
5. you have changed out the thermostats and have done a complete DEX-cool flush but engine is still running kind of hot.

now this is not a cure all for some of these conditions, because maybe you need to change fluids, maybe something else is going on to cause the issues, etc. this is a how to for removal and reinstall of the coolant stack whether just cleaning them like I did or having to replace them for what ever reason. it is a good service to add to your yearly maintenance routine as well.

so lets start with what you will need to accomplish this project.

before you begin:

1. you need to get you some engine cleaner/degreaser
2. get a good pressure washer. one that will easily remove the garbage that has collected on your coolant stack but not so powerful. you have to remember that you will be spraying it on the fins of the radiators and around electronic equipment.
3. make sure that you have you plenty of good hydration beverage, like me I had me some Gatorade and water because I was out in the TX. sun during the middle of the day.
4. below is a list of tools that you will need to accomplish this mission
5. if I have forgotten something them by all means make sure that you acquire it before you start this project.
6. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AT LEAST 4 HOURS FOR THIS, 1.5 FOR REMOVAL AND 1.5 FOR REASSEMBLE, AND 1 HOUR AS A BUFFER/BOO BOO LIP COOL DOWN TIME :rofl

list of tools needed

1. body clip removal tool
2. long needle nose pliars and a magnetic retrieving tool (to retrieve something if you drop it)
3. socket wrench with a couple extensions and a swivel joint. (I used 1/4" drive because none of the bolts were that big or tight that constituted anything above 3/8" drive.)
4. sockets in these sizes 10mm, 7/16", 1/2"
5. a T25 TORX head (bit/screw driver/wrench whatever you choose) there are only 4 bolts/screws that you will have to remove with this.
6. you can add a good flat tip screw driver and channel locks to the list.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ok, now that we have all of the gathering, acquiring, preparing issues covered lets start.

1. ensure that your vehicle has been sitting over night so that you will not burn yourself with hot fluids and metals.
2. open the hood and remove the plastic covering the hood release
3. remove the air cleaner, air cleaner box and the intake tubing
4. remove the grill guard by lightly pulling or pushing the clips free.
5. remove the pins that hold the head light assemblies in place
6. while leaving the light bulbs in the assemblies, remove the plugs from the bulbs.
7. for the lower day time running and clearance lights, there is a small plastic catch on the back of the assemblies towards the outside of each one. push that together and the assemblies will come out.
8. gently push in the catch on the back of the bulb and give it a 1/4 turn.
9. the light should pop out of the socket.

this is the same for both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
once you have both light assemblies removed from both sides, the grill, and the plastic piece covering the hood release, your vehicle should look like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
in these next 2 pictures you will notice all of the arrows. the yellow arrows are the 4 bolts that you need to use the T25 TORX to remove them. all 6 or 12 of the blue arrows you need the 10mm along with the swivel adapter to remove them.

make sure that you pay close attention to the BIG RED arrow. that is an impact sensor and it is part of your airbag system, make sure you pay attention when you disconnect it so as not to destroy it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
once you have all of those 16 of those bolts and the 1 sensor removed, gently pull those mounts out and lay them aside.

1. behind those mounts that you just removed there are 3 bolts per side that are (hidden) assist in holding the top cross member in place,

2. there are 2 bolts that are on the back side of the top cross member,

3. 2 bolts on the bottom of the hood catch/release support (per side),

4. 2 blots the hold the trans cooler in place to the catch/ release support, and the 2 bolts that hold the A/C cooler to the top cross member.

5. the last bolt is just above the battery on the drivers side holding the little bar to the cross member.

here are 5 pics showing all of the bolt locations.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
in this next picture you will see several things.

1. the top cross member will be removed
2. the hood catch/release will be removed
3. there will be 4 arrows showing the locations of the 4 bolts that hold the intercooler and the radiator together. once you remove those 4 bolts you will have 2 more things to remove and you will be ready to separate the stack.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the next 2 steps involve removing the boots that hook to the intercooler on each side. once those are removed you can then separate the stack. I apologize for the lack of pictures here, I was having a boo boo lip moment and had to take a beverage break and a breather. if I have to do this again for some reason I will get some pics and edit this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
in these next pics you will see the stack spread apart and just how ineffective a garden hose is at getting all of the garbage out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
at this point, you are ready to start with the cleaning of the coolers. spray liberal amounts of the cleaner/degreaser and let sit for 10-15 minutes.

while you are waiting the 10-15 min you should be getting your pressure washer ready as well as covering your electronics or at least identifying them so that they don't get sprayed.

once your pressure washer is ready and you have identified your important electronics, you are cleared for pressure cleaning of the coolers.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE FINS ON THE COOLERS

once all parts have been washed, let sit for 10-15 minutes to reduce the water you will be working in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
now, I did not go into complete detail on how to remove the actual coolant radiator because I did not need to go that far. a quick rundown would be to remove all hoses, drain coolant, remove all of the additional lines connected to it and you will be able to lift it out.

as you can see from the previous pics, i spread the A/C cooler away from the stack carefully and just far enough to be able to shimmy the intercooler out from the middle. be careful because you have a very good chance at this point to damage the fins on the intercooler or the coolant radiator.

I did not do pictures of the assembly and am not going to re-write the steps because they are the complete reverse order as removal.

once you have everything back together, start the truck to make sure you didn't mess anything up and that it runs.

SIDE NOTE:
i did not show pics of the fan shroud removal because i truly forgot to take pics of the 4 push clips that hold it together and the 2 bolts on top (1 on each side)

please feel free to give suggestions on how i could improve this to better assist folks in the future. also your questions are more than welcome.

respectfully
nate
 

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Nice diy, Thanks.
 

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Nice write up Nate. When I did mine I pulled radiator and inter cooler as one unit. Did not have to mess with the air conditioning rad that way. But I should have had one more set of hands, it was a chore alone to get back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks guys.

this was just me, the little lady is up in WA and I couldn't ask the 2 dogs to help other than attack me with licks and kisses every time I layed down to get under the front. 4 hands are nice, but I get pretty poopy when folks help me so just about everything I do work wise on here is done solo.
 

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Great write-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What is the point of doing this?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
the point of doing this is to get the garbage out of the stack and allow it to cool the vehicle better.
in the first post I gave a few symptoms that this could and would be a big cause of.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
truthfully I should have waited a few weeks until I got my new fan clutch, it would have made it easier for me to replace with all of that out of the way and having front access instead of having to come in from the top. live and learn I guess.
 

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nice write up, def gonna do this living in Wyoming with all the wind and the shit that gets blown around here
 
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