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I've posted all those part numbers up on threads in the past....maybe $50 for the wrench, socket and lock tool. Can't find 'em in my email....Search threads on the WP, they're posted several times in several threads.
IIRC, the socket/tool was a Lisle product.
 

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Lisle 22100 Flywheel Locking Tool for 6.6L Duramax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MCVPOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sK5TCb88XWSTC

TEKTON 3/4-Inch Drive x 40-Inch Breaker Bar | SBH00340 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3KJQ83/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6M5TCbM7S93F4

https://www.merchant-automotive.com/10358-Fan-Clutch-Wrench.aspx


Have a cheater bar on the breaker bar and it will be easier.

Torque wrenches and time.

Don't forget gaskets and o-rings. If you have an LBZ go with the oem pump with the plastic impeller.

Merchant has a nice kit already put together with everything you need for water pump and gaskets
 

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Pump should come with the oil cooler gasket and both O-rings, no?
Mine did.

Two new hose clamps for that new 4" crossover piece feeding the Turbo (off small Y tube on #15 below)....unless you like those stock spring clamps. :|

Also, don't know the size, but be prepared to replace the small O-ring (#190) on the pipe (#15) feeding that short hose and the T-stats...disturbing it, it will fall apart.
#191 is one of the two that should come with the pump.

Careful with #60 and you should be able to reuse it.
 

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Pump should come with the oil cooler gasket and both O-rings, no?

Mine did.



Two new hose clamps for that new 4" crossover piece feeding the Turbo (off small Y tube on #15 below)....unless you like those stock spring clamps. :|



Also, don't know the size, but be prepared to replace the small O-ring (#190) on the pipe (#15) feeding that short hose and the T-stats...disturbing it, it will fall apart.

#191 is one of the two that should come with the pump.



Careful with #60 and you should be able to reuse it.
Not sure hook. I got my water pump kit from merchant when they had welded pumps. No more now.bAll o-rings came with it.They been finding out the oem pumps for the LBZ are good and holding up. You can look on there webpage and look up all the gaskets and o-rings you need to do the job or just buy the o-ring kit for 40$. Buy the oem pump from Rock Auto and be done. Or just buy the pump kit from merchant it will come with everything you need. Even the flywheel lock. They have good customer service and support from my experience. I would say it's way above average.

I bought a welded water pump kit from them. Two years later I install it. 4 months later it started leaking. They replaced it for free. Sucks I had to do the job again but they took care of me.
 

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Thanks hook and mike for the links and the diagram.
 

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Pump should come with the oil cooler gasket and both O-rings, no?

Mine did.



Two new hose clamps for that new 4" crossover piece feeding the Turbo (off small Y tube on #15 below)....unless you like those stock spring clamps. :|



Also, don't know the size, but be prepared to replace the small O-ring (#190) on the pipe (#15) feeding that short hose and the T-stats...disturbing it, it will fall apart.

#191 is one of the two that should come with the pump.



Careful with #60 and you should be able to reuse it.
#60 replacement. This is what I used.

Or you can use oem
https://www.merchant-automotive.com/94011604-Upper-Radiator-Pipe-Seal.aspx

CA88
If you take some time and look on merchant automotives website you can find part numbers for everything you need........
 

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You don't retorque the bolt. Sort of. Lol you torque the bolt to 74ft.lbs. then 105 degrees.

How do you get to 105 degrees you ask?
Each point on the bolt is 30*. A valley is half of that. So 15*.

Mark the washer and ballancer at a point on the bolt and count 3 points and a valley. That will equal 105*.
 

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You don't retorque the bolt. Sort of. Lol you torque the bolt to 74ft.lbs. then 105 degrees.

How do you get to 105 degrees you ask?
Each point on the bolt is 30*. A valley is half of that. So 15*.

Mark the washer and ballancer at a point on the bolt and count 3 points and a valley. That will equal 105*.
That will work, but I am guessing it is the "Shade Tree Mechanic" method of getting 275 FP with only a 150 FP Tq Wrench. With the Torque Multiplier you only need 63 (62.5 to be precise) to get 275 FP.

You will have to block the handle of the TM with something because that 18" bar WILL have 275 FP on it while you are pulling 63 on the Tq Wrench.. A jack stand will work perfectly!
 

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That will work, but I am guessing it is the "Shade Tree Mechanic" method of getting 275 FP with only a 150 FP Tq Wrench. With the Torque Multiplier you only need 63 (62.5 to be precise) to get 275 FP.



You will have to block the handle of the TM with something because that 18" bar WILL have 275 FP on it while you are pulling 63 on the Tq Wrench.. A jack stand will work perfectly!
Nope. It's the professional way. Crankshaft balancer bolt.
 

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That is one thing I LOVE about this forum, I learn things EVERY day! Thanks!
 

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That is one thing I LOVE about this forum, I learn things EVERY day! Thanks!
Your welcome. As long as you have the flywheel lock and the 3/4 inch 36mm 12 point socket, 3/4 x40 inch breaker bar, and a cheater bar on top of that you will have no issues getting the HB bolt on and off. I'm not a professional but I have done the job twice so if you have any questions shoot me a PM so we don't clutter up this thread anymore than we have. Sorry OP.
 

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Discussion Starter #235
Your welcome. As long as you have the flywheel lock and the 3/4 inch 36mm 12 point socket, 3/4 x40 inch breaker bar, and a cheater bar on top of that you will have no issues getting the HB bolt on and off. I'm not a professional but I have done the job twice so if you have any questions shoot me a PM so we don't clutter up this thread anymore than we have. Sorry OP.
you good man. I would not even consider that clutter, like 407driver said....you learn something new everyday.
 
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