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How To: Radiator Stack Removal and Install

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183K views 235 replies 63 participants last post by  PSCMIKE  
#1 · (Edited)
ok since this has not been done before or if it has it has been hidden in the millions of threads on this forum, I went ahead and decided to take some pics of how to remove, clean and install the radiator stack. this should pertain to all OBS trucks since I have an LBZ and it is generally the same for the LLY and LB7.

Symptoms:
1. truck is running a little hot.
2. transmission is running a little hot.
3. A/C is not quite as cold as it was before. (should be done before this http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/136547-how-clean-evap-coil.html )
4. truck is operated in dirty/dusty generally nasty conditions.
5. you have changed out the thermostats and have done a complete DEX-cool flush but engine is still running kind of hot.

now this is not a cure all for some of these conditions, because maybe you need to change fluids, maybe something else is going on to cause the issues, etc. this is a how to for removal and reinstall of the coolant stack whether just cleaning them like I did or having to replace them for what ever reason. it is a good service to add to your yearly maintenance routine as well.

so lets start with what you will need to accomplish this project.

before you begin:

1. you need to get you some engine cleaner/degreaser
2. get a good pressure washer. one that will easily remove the garbage that has collected on your coolant stack but not so powerful. you have to remember that you will be spraying it on the fins of the radiators and around electronic equipment.
3. make sure that you have you plenty of good hydration beverage, like me I had me some Gatorade and water because I was out in the TX. sun during the middle of the day.
4. below is a list of tools that you will need to accomplish this mission
5. if I have forgotten something them by all means make sure that you acquire it before you start this project.
6. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AT LEAST 4 HOURS FOR THIS, 1.5 FOR REMOVAL AND 1.5 FOR REASSEMBLE, AND 1 HOUR AS A BUFFER/BOO BOO LIP COOL DOWN TIME :rofl

list of tools needed

1. body clip removal tool
2. long needle nose pliars and a magnetic retrieving tool (to retrieve something if you drop it)
3. socket wrench with a couple extensions and a swivel joint. (I used 1/4" drive because none of the bolts were that big or tight that constituted anything above 3/8" drive.)
4. sockets in these sizes 10mm, 7/16", 1/2"
5. a T25 TORX head (bit/screw driver/wrench whatever you choose) there are only 4 bolts/screws that you will have to remove with this.
6. you can add a good flat tip screw driver and channel locks to the list.
 

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#33 ·
Oh My God that was so freaking funny!!!!!!! LOL I'm laughing soo hard. :rofl That has to be the funniest joke ever!!

Ok I lied. Sorry
 
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#36 ·
Wow, there was a lot of stuff in there. I'm installing a grill screen behind my grille instead in front of it to help prevent this. Very good write up.
 
#39 ·
Wow there's a shit in between the radiators going to go clean mine great write up bro.
 
#40 ·
How much of a change in temp did ya get?
 
#41 ·
Nice DIY.

I will add, it's always good to start with compressed air 1st, to clear as much out as possible before moisture is added.

It's much easier to 'blow' dust out than trying to rinse mud. humpin:
 
#43 · (Edited)
Quicker to drop, but also quicker to have the fan react, reducing the spikes.

If the cooling stack is restricting air flow across and thru it, the fan sensor never gets word that the house is on fire until long after the ECT started it's climb to worrisome levels.

These late fan starts would mistakenly lead you to believe you need to replace it, when a good cleaning is all that was needed for it to function properly.
 
#44 ·
Couldn't have said it better myself. And think of all the overworked a/c compressors that would love the lower pressures as a result of a cleaner stack. Heck, if everyone cleaned their stacks, I would lose a boat load of a/c jobs!
 
#46 ·
WOW! Great write up! Added another one to the to-do-list
 
#48 ·
I want to thank Nate for the help with cleaning the cooling stack. I finished cleaning mine because it would start to get hot pulling long hills with the fifth wheel.
It's a 2007 classic that I have had for about three years. I thought it was a farm truck in it's previous life. When I got down to the radiator it was full of grass seed. It looks like Little Blue Stem or Big Blue Stem. If I can I will attach photos.
I'm surprised it did not run hotter than it did with all the stuff in the radiator. I had to pull the radiator out to get the stuff out. Lots of power washing did not get it all out. I let it dry overnight and then compressed air would remove some more. I also flashed it with a propane torch to burn some of the awns of of the seed. That also helped the air to remove more of the stuff.
Biggest problem was finding the bolt for the air bleed on top of the thermostat when I dropped it. It disappeared down into that dark hole, but did not come out the bottom. I finally found it and fished it out.
Anyway it is done and I can hook and go with the rv next month.
Thanks for the help.
Bob
 

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#49 ·
Sub'd for this! all of the miles in my truck I'm scared to see how it looks!
 
#50 ·
I am going to do mine this summer! With 700,000 miles I'm afraid to see the mess!

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#51 ·
Ok so I tried this the other day. Here is a quick story with results, Blew a headgasket, replaced it, changed thermostats, fan clutch, radiator flush, water pump to cover all my bases. Well Anytime I would hook up to a heavy duty trailer empty and go up a hill about overall 10 miles, my truck would overheat halfway up the hill, of course I would shut it down before it would overheat but it would get close (240). The min I turned down hill the it would go back to normal. So I thought I would give a try before I go any further. Took the radiator out and first blew air threw through all the cooling fins and the other cooling things on the front. Then washed them out then blew them out again with air. Now going up the same hill with a trailer my truck never got above 213 degrees The whole way up. Now that said, Found that my Fan clutch is bad even though I replaced, it was bad. This works and is cheap alternative to replacing stuff first. SO thank you sir!
 
#52 ·
Hi All,

Did this to my LBZ this weekend while doing a coolant change, yep, lots of stuff between the radiator and inter-cooler. Thanks for the wright up, helped a lot. Its a lot of work but worth the time, a lot less time than doing blown head gaskets from over heating!

Steve
 
#53 ·
#54 ·
No photo's sorry, with 87000 miles it was close the photo on post 22. what surprised me was the 8" feather, how the heck does that get between there! after driving it today, what I noticed most was the quick cool down, didn't do that.

Steve
 
#57 ·
This process would be exactly the same for an 05? Sorry if you mentioned the year you did this on, I must have missed it.

And the cooler you have taken completely out, what cooler is that, and how does it get disconnected? Thanks.
 
#59 ·
Just ran into this thread after removing and cleaning my stack last week. I was having high temps across the board. My trans temps were 230, engine coolant would reach 230 plus and egt 1400 plus before backing off on stock tune. Fan clutch was cutting in and would blow away all day at 225- 230 without cooling down much at all. I took the whole front of the truck apart to find the inter cooler and rad absolutely packed. I blew them out then carefully pressure washed then blew out again. The amout of crap that came out was unreal. I have no doubt that was my heat problem. I haven't had a chance to take the truck out for a tow but if you are having these problems or if you drive in dusty, dirty conditions consider taking the time to do this bit of maintenance.
 

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#60 ·
Here is another. It was also a good time to replace the trans lines with hydraulic hose, replace the accessory belt, the 2 idlers and tensioner. I also added two more horns to the stock two.
 

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#63 ·
How did it turn out
 
#64 ·
So I started on mine here are my pictures up until I ran into a snag with damage to the intercooler. The final picture of the radiator it doesn't look so bad but the dirt is actually about an 1/8 inch thick.
 

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