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How To: Radiator Stack Removal and Install

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183K views 235 replies 63 participants last post by  PSCMIKE  
#1 · (Edited)
ok since this has not been done before or if it has it has been hidden in the millions of threads on this forum, I went ahead and decided to take some pics of how to remove, clean and install the radiator stack. this should pertain to all OBS trucks since I have an LBZ and it is generally the same for the LLY and LB7.

Symptoms:
1. truck is running a little hot.
2. transmission is running a little hot.
3. A/C is not quite as cold as it was before. (should be done before this http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/136547-how-clean-evap-coil.html )
4. truck is operated in dirty/dusty generally nasty conditions.
5. you have changed out the thermostats and have done a complete DEX-cool flush but engine is still running kind of hot.

now this is not a cure all for some of these conditions, because maybe you need to change fluids, maybe something else is going on to cause the issues, etc. this is a how to for removal and reinstall of the coolant stack whether just cleaning them like I did or having to replace them for what ever reason. it is a good service to add to your yearly maintenance routine as well.

so lets start with what you will need to accomplish this project.

before you begin:

1. you need to get you some engine cleaner/degreaser
2. get a good pressure washer. one that will easily remove the garbage that has collected on your coolant stack but not so powerful. you have to remember that you will be spraying it on the fins of the radiators and around electronic equipment.
3. make sure that you have you plenty of good hydration beverage, like me I had me some Gatorade and water because I was out in the TX. sun during the middle of the day.
4. below is a list of tools that you will need to accomplish this mission
5. if I have forgotten something them by all means make sure that you acquire it before you start this project.
6. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AT LEAST 4 HOURS FOR THIS, 1.5 FOR REMOVAL AND 1.5 FOR REASSEMBLE, AND 1 HOUR AS A BUFFER/BOO BOO LIP COOL DOWN TIME :rofl

list of tools needed

1. body clip removal tool
2. long needle nose pliars and a magnetic retrieving tool (to retrieve something if you drop it)
3. socket wrench with a couple extensions and a swivel joint. (I used 1/4" drive because none of the bolts were that big or tight that constituted anything above 3/8" drive.)
4. sockets in these sizes 10mm, 7/16", 1/2"
5. a T25 TORX head (bit/screw driver/wrench whatever you choose) there are only 4 bolts/screws that you will have to remove with this.
6. you can add a good flat tip screw driver and channel locks to the list.
 

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#65 ·
You damaged it or you found previous damage?

Oh, and Ew!
 
#66 ·
I damaged it! Tried looking for a replacement on rockauto.com but not finding it. Can they be repaired or should I replace
 
#68 ·
There are holes in 2 tube. No need to pressure test
 
#69 ·
Take it to a radiator shop, they can probably fix it.
 
#72 ·
So its been raining like crazy the past day or so here in metro Detroit and I haven't had time to work on my truck. I do not have a garage so it's in my driveway. I just got home from work to find that someone has stolen my intercooler. I had it resting against my front bumper. I'm pissed
 
#73 ·
scrap yard... Downerrr
 
#75 ·
Found it at scrap yard. Police report made.
 
#77 ·
It's damaged beyond use now
 
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#78 ·
Homeowner's Ins cover it? Home theft/vandalism?
 
#79 ·
Nope it wasn't "attached" at time of theft
 
#80 ·
So my cost free maintenance ended up costing near 600 after all is said and done. Used intercooler $325 new radiator $265 and a few days of headache. Leaving now on a run will see if these new parts take care of my running hot issue while towing. The picture of the damage is from a repair that was done several years ago and we'll over 300,000 miles ago. That's why I replaced it since I was already that deep into it.
 

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#82 ·
I am back. One other problem I have been having the past few years was the AC not working well while parked or at a long light. On the run I hauled a 64 impala SS out east and a 55 rolls royce back. While going thru the mountains cruise set at the speed limit my temps never hit 210. It was in the 80's on the way back. And the AC worked while parked! Yes this fixed it so far. The family and I are leaving Wednesday for Kentucky and taking the camper. That will be the real test. 5 people and food and gear for a 5 day camping trip.
 
#83 ·
Awesome write up on my to do list once I find a resolution to my rear end problems.

I have a dumb question because I am not a mechanic. From what I put together it appears there is 1 radiator, 1 intercooler, and 1 item for the AC. I am assuming the intercooler and radiator and intercooler have Radiator fluid in them. When I disconnect the AC fins will it leak Freon? Just want make sure I have everything I need to put back together. Thanks
 
#84 ·
The condensor is for the ac. Don't disconnect lines on that unless the refrigerant has been removed. It is under pressure and will freeze as soon as it is released. The intercooler has no liquid in it. It cools the boosted air from the turbo. The radiator had engine coolant in it
 
#86 ·
Nate
You still at Ft. Bliss? I was there in '72, July thru Sept, for AIT on the Nike Hercules. Yea I'm old! Then we would go down once a year to actually shoot one off.

I fully get the "hot and nasty".

Excellent write up and will do this this fall, when done RV'ing for the yr.
 
#87 ·
OP what year is your truck? On my 07 classic there is no need to do post #4 I am able to access the 3 bolts per side to take the upper support off. Also because of my experience I would recommend removing the radiator and intercooler as one unit to reduce risk of damage to either, which I did do. I did find a good video on YouTube on this also. I'll try and find it to post here if that's ok
 
#88 ·
This is pretty detailed on removing the radiator. How To Install: Mishimoto 2006-2010 Chevrolet /GM…: http://youtu.be/mjZ1dhAMkv8
 
#90 ·
sub'd for a day I cant find anything to do! thanks!
 
#94 ·
We are back from the Kentucky trip with 0 running hot issues! 95 degrees cruise set at 70. Air on high! There was one grade where I barely got over 210! Well worth the work involved! Before I would of been close to or overheating with the air off!