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How To: Replace LB7 Turbo

139K views 47 replies 28 participants last post by  03dmaxlb7life  
#1 · (Edited)
How to Replace your LB7 Turbo
There may come a time in your Duramax trucks lifetime that you may need to either replace the turbocharger or upgrade the turbocharger. Whether it’s due to turbo failure or that urge for extra power, this write-up will guide you through the replacement of an LB7 turbo charger while the motor is still in the truck. 2001 model year trucks will vary slightly as will trucks with EGR.
As with all of my write-ups, this one was done off the top of my head since I never seem to have time to create a write up while performing the repair on the truck as it needs to get done and out of the shop ASAP. So if you notice anything that I may have missed or something that needs corrections or maybe you just found a better way to do something, let me know. I also suggest you read the entire write-up thoroughly so you have an understanding of what needs to be done.
I created this write-up based off my personal knowledge with this topic and also using some things out of the GM service manual.
It’s not too complicated but it will kick your ass every time you turn around. The exhaust bolts don’t like to break loose, expect to break some tools and bruise some knuckles.
`Also another note, if you want to upgrade your turbo mouthpiece to a ported and polished one, order on prior to performing the repair as it will be a walk in the park during this job.

EDIT 1/22/12: After mnore experience (and better tools) with this repair I feel removal of the transmission doesn't save any more time or headaches than it creates. Although using a 15mm to remove the two nuts for the mount and tilting the engine forward could help

The parts you will need to replace a stock turbo charger are
New/Used/Reman Turbo
97256733Oil Feed banjo bolt gasket
97227012 Oil Return gasket for turbo side
97208191 Oil return gasket for rear housing side
97318441 Turbo mouthpiece gasket
97373522 Coolant Banjo Bolt Gasket x2 (If needed)
97188685 Up-Pipe to Manifold Gasket x2
97192618 Up-Pipe to Turbo Gasket x2
97192619 Downpipe Gasket Non-EGR
97254688 Downpipe Gasket EGR




Tools Needed
11mm 6pt Deep Well
Various 12mm 12pt sockets/wrenches
17mm tools
And your basic tool set.
Removal Instructions
1.As with any R&R disconnect the batteries.

2.No need to remove transmission unless you want to.

3.Now remove your passenger side tire (optional) and fender liner. At this point drain the radiator by removing the drain plug, and collect the fluid in a clean pail for reuse. If you leave the overflow bottle cap on it will drain slowly and be easier to control. If you can find and exhaust elbow or something to channel the fluid (I use and old drivers side CAC tube) your life will be easier and you can remove the overflow cap and let it flow out like crazy.
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4.If you haven’t already done so, disconnect the downpipe from the front pipe.
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5.Now remove the driver’s side wheel (optional) and fender liner using a 7/8” or 22mm for the wheel and a body clip removal tool set for the fender liner.

6.Now remove the turbo resonator (the black piece that says 6.6 Turbo, 2001 trucks dont have one) by loosening the clamp that holds it to the air intake using a 5/16” or 8mm nut driver or a flathead screwdriver. To remove the rest of the way simply pull up on it and it will pop off. Now would be a good time to get a 2” test plug from the hardware store and plug the resonator port if you haven’t done so yet.

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7.Now remove the turbo heat shield using a 10mm to remove the three bolts that secure it.
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8.The next step is to remove the downpipe heat shield using a 10mm to remove the three bolts. The finesse it out of the truck and set aside.
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9.Next remove the driver’s side up-pipe heat shield using a 10mm to remove the four bolts, then finesse it out of the way and set aside.
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10.Now generously soak all of the up-pipe bolts and downpipe bolts with penetrating oil, do this a few times as you complete the next few steps. For a picture of where they are at see below.

11.Next remove the air intake tube by unhooking the MAF sensor and loosening the clamp that holds it to the air box and turbo mouthpiece using a 5/16” or 8mm nut driver or a flathead screwdriver.

12.Next you can remove the blue CAC tube from the turbo by using an 11mm tool to loosen the clamp, and then slide the hose off.
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13.Another thing to get out of the way is the PCV tube that runs across the turbo mouthpiece. To do so slide the clamp off on the driver’s side valvecover and swing it out of the way.
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14.You will also want to disconnect the MAP Sensor and the intake heater. The MAP sensor just simply unplugs and the intake air heater comes off with an 10mm. Then swing the wires out of the way.
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#32 ·
So removing the trans is really to just give you more leverage to break the downpipe bolts loose? Can you even reuse the down pipe heat shield with an aftermarket turbo kit? I will have access to a lift but really don't want to pull the tranny if I can get around it...
 
#36 ·
Good call, def did not need to pull tranny or lift the cab... quality tools are a must... even the snap-on wrenches would flex quite a bit, would have snapped a lower quality wrench easily. someone needs to engineer an tool so you can use an impact on those downpipe bolts from the front... they would make millions!!
 
#37 ·
Best way I found to get the down pipe bolts to break loose is by using the little jack that comes with the truck. Using a12 pt wrench (and a stubby 12 pt wrench) you squeeze the jack in and angling it the best you can to press down on the wrench and break the bolts free. For me, there was no way of breaking them free with out the jack.
 
#38 ·
Heluva write up
 
#43 ·
Little late to the discussion

I'm curious after reading your very cool and informative post if in have a bad turbo. Getting it hauled in now but the symptoms were a good bit of white smoke for about a year and a half. Especially when hot outside. Heard a bit of a burp in the the motor followed by what I thought was a push rod coming loose. Lots of black smelly exhaust. Very loud internal clacking. Had a bit of a miss but still ran with heavy smoke. Drove it much further than I wanted to (10-12 miles) at about 20 ta 30 mph. Hoping its not a trashed motor because its got 300 k on it and I really want ta keep it, anyway any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
#47 ·
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