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Are you talking about the axle nut? If so torque it to 53 and then back it off 1/4 to1/2 a turn so the hub will spend freely. The socket for the it is a Powerbuilt 648475 if you need it. Some do it without though.
Yep, axle nut.

Yep, I've got the socket thinger. I bought one last year when I did the same type of rebuild on my 14 bolt FF axle in my farm truck. I guess with this truck I'm being a bit paranoid (overly cautious) about tightness of that nut since I drive the truck a LOT.

I tightened to 50 ft lbs, then backed off the nut, then tightened by hand using just the socket and my hand around teh socket. One spot feels a bit too tight, one feels decent, but maybe still a tad tight, but the next looser spot I can feel lateral movement when I grab the rotor and rock it back and forth as if I was trying to pull it off. I can actually feel it if I grab just the wheel studs (so i know it's bearing looseness, not the rotor wobbling on the hub assembly)

With what I described, does the loose setting sound "too loose"?
 

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The axles us a wierd two piece seal, those things prevent the hub from easily seating all the way on the spindle. You need to beat the hell out of the hub to get it to fully seat. Appparently I didn't get mine fully seated, even though I beat the hell out of them 3 weeks ago.
One leaked, the other one was making noise due to loose bearings, so I've rebuilding both sides, AGAIN.
 

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If you think it's loose then it is. Just go to the next slot. spin the hub and if it spins free your good, there will be some resistance though like anything. if it's too tight you'll burn the bearings up too.
Read this post too, new thread I made tonight:
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/maintenance/683193-need-help-rear-wheel-bearing-preload.html

So should I set it to the tight setting?

I've repacked lots of trailer bearings and I've always been able to get things dialed in perfect, but this seems loose or tight.
Yes, I tend to overthink things like this.
 

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ok Im going to ask again. 2011 2500HD mine is a Gasser.. axle flange gasket looks to be a different part number for 2011 up does anyone have that?
Timken SL260002 for the seal is good but the flange gasket is not the same I have a 2011 2500HD.

I just need to replace a wheel stud on each side, I have no leaks currently at 15k miles.
 

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Just got done with mine.

Noticed the new hub seemed a little out of round? Looked like they balanced it?


E Brakes aren't in, have to pull it apart next month anyway
 

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Can't find the spindle nut socket at any of the auto parts stores.Can I tighten it down with needle nose pliers and then use a punch to get in on tight?
 

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looks like no posts on here for a while but I wanted to share about my stupidity. I replaced the left rear seal at 82500 miles. I now am at 127500. since then I have had to replace that same seal at least six more times. I've changed the bearings and races, and the complete hub as well. Finally today I figured it out by rereading this thread. Part of the original seal was still on the spindle. Someone wrote that it looks like it should be there. Well it don't. all this time it looked as if the spindle needed that little extra raised part. Don't be a dummy get the entire old seal off there!
 
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