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Discussion Starter #1
so when i changed my rear diff. fluid i for got to add the limited slip stuff. now my rear end is making a lot of noise when i get on it. like a clicking noise. dose this mean i need an new diff.? or what should i do? also the fluid smells really burnt too.
 

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There is no additive for our read ends. Just plain ol synthetic gear oil and nothing else. They can and do go out, but usually you have to be pretty hard on it to break it.

Sent from my Droid using the AutoGuide app while not driving...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oo I got you. Something is goin on in there it's drivin me nuts!
 

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Oh...... Squirrel!
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Discussion Starter #5
what should i look for in there?? the fluid smells really burnt, and i just changed it last winter? when i take off, like get into it, not WOT but enough. or just pulling my boat from 0 - 40mph ish its a solid click noise then stops once i let off, or come to speed. probably clicks 2 to 3 times a second. it started out as a light squeek.
 

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Could be a U joint going dry also. they may feel thight on the rig if you pull the shaft see if they are free and not binding dry ones like to make noise just when you start moving
 

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Inspect your entire driveline......

Clean the u-joints up and lube as needed...............
 

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Quicker Then Brian!
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I toasted a G80 back when i was still running 14's....

look for metal shavings and chunks. if the rest of the driveline checks out.
 

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My vote would be U joints as well. They're sneaky little critters!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
soo i pulled out my shaft haha and sure enough rear u joint on one cap there is a big chunk missing, and by gosh its really sloppy! thanks for the input guys!!! oo and should i replace the front one too while im at it??
 

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You may as well since its off. Whats another $20 since its already off? Make sure you get u joints that are NOT greasable. They're known to be a lot weaker since it needs a passage to transfer the grease.
 

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You may as well since its off. Whats another $20 since its already off? Make sure you get u joints that are NOT greasable. They're known to be a lot weaker since it needs a passage to transfer the grease.
really that big of a deal to get none greaseable? i used the greaseable
 

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interesting

good question.......^^I would think the greasable ones would be better,thats just a guess though...
 

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I'm sure they're fine and you'd have more first hand knowledge than i would, but i've heard some people have broken them. Then again, anyone can break anything at anytime. I've never had good luck being able to get the grease gun to fit in there either when i have used them.
 

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good question.......^^I would think the greasable ones would be better,thats just a guess though...
As far as lasting longer since you can grease them i would agree but since it has a hollow area in it i'd think that would decrease the total strength to some degree.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i think it is plicer makes em with out? i was told not to use the ones with the zerks because the channel for the grease weakends the joint. from what iv herd that is.
 

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I always use the non greaseable. They are lifetime warranty and the greasable ones arent. The non greasable ones look a little beefier and and the seals are much better on them, at least at the parts stores around me. I have done three non greasable ones in Duramax trucks in the past 5 months and all are doing well.
 

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Oh...... Squirrel!
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Discussion Starter #20
No doubt! I'll get on it once I get off this tug boat :/. Stuff always breaks before crew change day...
 
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