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King of Battle
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854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
soooo I been looking to lower my 6" lift a lil bit and straighten out the CV shafts. So for starters I removed the torsion bar bolts to see how low the front would sink then I would measure the difference between the front and rear and make up the difference with smaller blocks in the rear. After removing my torsion bar bolts this is what i ended up with.....

where i started drivers side:


torsion bar bolt:


with different jounce stops but where i ended up drivers side:


passenger side starting out:


torsion bar bolt:


passenger side after:


CVs are straight hell almost negative but i dont like how the jounce stops are crushed like that and the tires rub when turning.
Is there a possibility my torsion bars are fatigue/shot??
 

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King of Battle
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854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's some great info Mike thanks I appreciate it. Now I just gotta ask the boss to spend more money on the truck lol. One thing I noticed that when I had it up in the air and the torsion bar bolts out is that there was no tension what do ever on the torsion bars I essentially could grab them and move them around. I figured this was another sign that they were pretty much shot. I'm heading to the dealer today to get a vane relearn done and I'll talk to them about it.
 

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Premium Member
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615 Posts
That's some great info Mike thanks I appreciate it. Now I just gotta ask the boss to spend more money on the truck lol. One thing I noticed that when I had it up in the air and the torsion bar bolts out is that there was no tension what do ever on the torsion bars I essentially could grab them and move them around. I figured this was another sign that they were pretty much shot. I'm heading to the dealer today to get a vane relearn done and I'll talk to them about it.
Did you learn anything at the dealer about whether they are indeed shot or not?

Does your truck ride like it's on blown shocks in the front? Mine has some bounce to it, like you'd see on a car with blown shocks. But... my jounce stops are destroyed, so I'm going to replace them with the OEM Z71 ones this week and see if that makes a difference, but I'm wondering if my TB's are shot as well or my shocks are just worn.

Sorry to jack the thread a bit, but I think we're both in really similar situations. I just decranked my TB's basically the amount you did so that my 6" kit had the CV's and tie rods parallel to the ground. Took about 2" out of the lift. Now I'm wondering if I removed too much preload from the TB's, and is there any difference between just decranking the adjuster screw and swapping out to a different key?
If I swap keys, can I keep more preload on the TB's while sitting lower? My hunch is no, because that doesn't sound right.
 

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Registered
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6,230 Posts
Need to contact Sway-A-Way and see if they have any interest in manufacturing bars for these trucks as they are now in need of replacement, a lot of them. If they see enough interest maybe they will, any takers gonna contact them.....:thumb

They are mentioned in the link below and used to manufacture some finely adjustable keys and torsion bars post 33...


Stronger Torsion bars - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 

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Premium Member
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615 Posts
Need to contact Sway-A-Way and see if they have any interest in manufacturing bars for these trucks as they are now in need of replacement, a lot of them. If they see enough interest maybe they will, any takers gonna contact them.....:thumb

They are mentioned in the link below and used to manufacture some finely adjustable keys and torsion bars post 33...


Stronger Torsion bars - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
Thanks for the thread link, that was a very useful read.
I've come to the conclusion that I need to crank mine back up, but I'll do it as little as possible.

I'd likely be interested in the sway-a-ways just so I can finely dial in my suspension to where I want it.
 

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King of Battle
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854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks again Mike for another good read. As Ive been thinking about it I know now what the issue is. It's where the compression/jounce stops are mounted to that limits the lift itself. If there were a way to move that mounting position up then this issue would be solved. I can crank the bolts up enough to where i want it to be at so the torsion bars being worn out is not an issue. Im trying to find a crossmember that would allow me to have a higher mounting point for the jounce stop
 

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Most Known Unknown
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29,729 Posts
maybe i was reading too fast, and maybe i had like 20 "Introduction" threads to say hello in :rof but does the torsion bar turn int the LCA and the key?

easy way to find out is put the truck on the ground, mark a line on each piece to the next piece and crank it up, then you can tell if the torsion bar is stripped within the LCA or the key or both idk
 

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King of Battle
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854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lol ahhh Ok yeah I think it does turn a lil bit cause I could see a lil daylight where the torsion bar connects to the LCA but I don't think they are totally stripped
 

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King of Battle
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854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah at this point I'm pretty sure it's the torsion bars. Any idea on moving the bump stop mounting location?
 

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Most Known Unknown
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29,729 Posts
if its the bars then just replace them

as for modifying like i did back in the day on my lift, on yours its easy looking...

just slice it off, and maybe box the old part still attached to the frame off, and add in a 90 degree and bolt your jounce to it

if i had one in front of me i could think about it more :)

but remember your gonna have to possibly look at shorter shocks and yada yada yada

lowering lifts are fun :D
 
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