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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning on putting both batteries in bed, just curious to see some guy's setups and how they ran everything. I got a pretty good idea on how I want to do it but doesn't hurt to see other setups. TIA

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Subd for this, just gonna run 1 here but up for the ideas

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Back when I was running my 2012 dually, I had the same idea but never got it done before the truck was gone. I put a lot of miles on it in a short time and traded it off.

I had an auxiliary tank on the front of the bed with about 9-10" in front of it which I though was a perfect place for the batteries. Would have got them out from under the hood into a much cooler environment. I would have gone to a bigger heavier duty battery than the 48's. Probably would have ran the same high cycling Group 31 Interstates that are in all my tractors and equipment. The shop I worked in for years made custom cables from 2/0 welding cable with crimped on hard cast terminals like GM uses, not the soft lead terminals that bend and break. Didn't have it all drawn up or anything just mostly the concept. I'll be curious to see what you come up with.
 

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2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
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As blythkd1 said... If you go to an actual "welding supply" house, they will have the proper welding lead (cable). The cable has a lot of small wires which makes it very flexible.

All said, typed, suggested or imagined on here is at your own risk...

You can purchase a terminal crimper from the welding shop, too. Then purchase the cable, connectors and terminals.

Install of the batteries can be in battery boxes (yes, like marine type)... but must be secured so they do not move.. if they move it can be very bad should one short out.

You MUST put a fuse on the battery + posts, not under the hood... not just the one under the hood... see sentence above.

Connections to the original battery cables can be done under the hood and properly secured/connected (another welding crimp for joining cables)... or, you can put terminals and bolt them together... but, please, be neat and safe...

Dangling, exposed cables can destroy your truck... don't become a statistic.

Yes, this is all imaginary.. of course no one would attempt this and it is not recommended for the novice..

BTW, Summit racing has some cabling options... just another source...

Remember, don't let the 'smoke' out....you may never get it back in..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Planning on just hooking the 2 up parallel in a under bedrail toolbox then run a positive and ground up with 4/0 to a distribution block back DS corner by fuse box. Probably put a switch in somewhere but not sure where and a fuse right off the battery

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Planning on just hooking the 2 up parallel in a under bedrail toolbox then run a positive and ground up with 4/0 to a distribution block back DS corner by fuse box. Probably put a switch in somewhere but not sure where and a fuse right off the battery

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
What about battery venting?

Tool boxes are usually metal… not best place for battery. Vented gas will corrode tools inside and be quite a fire and maybe explosion should tools bump together enough to make sprarky-sparky..

There are situations where you don’t have control, like an accident… 1st responders are trained to look for batteries under the hood to cut the battery power… time is of the essence… tick-tick-tick…

Will it be easier for your “enemy” to know about the batteries and damage or levitate them?

I know you have thought all this out, just wondering how you will implement.
 
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