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Discussion Starter #1
So here's the deal - 2006 Silverado LBZ CCSB torsion bars are cranked, but not much CV axles still mostly flat. Rides great on my stock wheels/tires I had on it (the little stock 16" on some 285/65/16 A/T tires).

I bought some used XD wheels in great shape from a guy on Facebook - don't worry the wheels are good I had them checked out and there is no bad spots or bends of any kind on the wheels.

They were on some decently used Atturo Trail Blade XT's in which case one tire of the four was more worn than the other 3 - put them on the truck and rode like crap - shook around 45mph and figured it was the tires.

(I know - don't buy cheap tires - I should have listened to that in the first place) However, I bought a cheap set of A/T tires that actually look really good and had decent reviews - installed them and same issue - it shakes/bounces at those certain speeds. I had it to 3 different tire shops for them to ALL tell me it's the tires, so I went on to get them returned and my money back. On to the next set.

In the back of my mind I believe it was truly the tires, but there's this thought that maybe it's something else. If it rode perfectly smooth before how would the new wheels/tires make that big of a difference even if they were a junk set?

Anyone have any ideas of anything besides the tires it could be?
 

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So here's the deal - 2006 Silverado LBZ CCSB torsion bars are cranked, but not much CV axles still mostly flat. Rides great on my stock wheels/tires I had on it (the little stock 16" on some 285/65/16 A/T tires).

I bought some used XD wheels in great shape from a guy on Facebook - don't worry the wheels are good I had them checked out and there is no bad spots or bends of any kind on the wheels.

They were on some decently used Atturo Trail Blade XT's in which case one tire of the four was more worn than the other 3 - put them on the truck and rode like crap - shook around 45mph and figured it was the tires.

(I know - don't buy cheap tires - I should have listened to that in the first place) However, I bought a cheap set of A/T tires that actually look really good and had decent reviews - installed them and same issue - it shakes/bounces at those certain speeds. I had it to 3 different tire shops for them to ALL tell me it's the tires, so I went on to get them returned and my money back. On to the next set.

In the back of my mind I believe it was truly the tires, but there's this thought that maybe it's something else. If it rode perfectly smooth before how would the new wheels/tires make that big of a difference even if they were a junk set?

Anyone have any ideas of anything besides the tires it could be?
Tires can definitely do that; if they're junk it may be difficult-to-impossible to balance them correctly. The same is true of wheels, albeit to a lesser extent.

My first line of defense against vibrations is to loosen and re-torque all my lugs to the specified value (140 lb*ft on my truck). A couple of times I've had my truck come back from the dealer exhibiting an annoying vibration around 65-70 MPH, and after re-torquing all the lugs the problem disappeared.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So here's the deal - 2006 Silverado LBZ CCSB torsion bars are cranked, but not much CV axles still mostly flat. Rides great on my stock wheels/tires I had on it (the little stock 16" on some 285/65/16 A/T tires).

I bought some used XD wheels in great shape from a guy on Facebook - don't worry the wheels are good I had them checked out and there is no bad spots or bends of any kind on the wheels.

They were on some decently used Atturo Trail Blade XT's in which case one tire of the four was more worn than the other 3 - put them on the truck and rode like crap - shook around 45mph and figured it was the tires.

(I know - don't buy cheap tires - I should have listened to that in the first place) However, I bought a cheap set of A/T tires that actually look really good and had decent reviews - installed them and same issue - it shakes/bounces at those certain speeds. I had it to 3 different tire shops for them to ALL tell me it's the tires, so I went on to get them returned and my money back. On to the next set.

In the back of my mind I believe it was truly the tires, but there's this thought that maybe it's something else. If it rode perfectly smooth before how would the new wheels/tires make that big of a difference even if they were a junk set?

Anyone have any ideas of anything besides the tires it could be?
Tires can definitely do that; if they're junk it may be difficult-to-impossible to balance them correctly. The same is true of wheels, albeit to a lesser extent.

My first line of defense against vibrations is to loosen and re-torque all my lugs to the specified value (140 lb*ft on my truck). A couple of times I've had my truck come back from the dealer exhibiting an annoying vibration around 65-70 MPH, and after re-torquing all the lugs the problem disappeared.
I will definitely try that if the problem persists. 3 shops tried to balance those cheapy tires and couldn't get them and had the same shake at the same speeds each time.

Would something like a ball joint or any other front end suspension issue cause something that bad? I mean it was essentially bouncing the truck so it was a very severe shake lol.
 

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I will definitely try that if the problem persists. 3 shops tried to balance those cheapy tires and couldn't get them and had the same shake at the same speeds each time.

Would something like a ball joint or any other front end suspension issue cause something that bad? I mean it was essentially bouncing the truck so it was a very severe shake lol.
Possible, but my experience is that when suspension components fail they cause low-frequency oscillations, rather than what most people would call vibrations (which are higher frequency). I had a 1997 Nissan pathfinder with a coil-sprung live rear axle that was fixed fore-aft by a pair of control arms with rubber bushings at the axle and frame connections. Well, the vehicle developed an incredibly bizarre (and terrifying) behavior: under certain conditions, it would start rocking side to side (on the "roll" axis), with the amplitude of the oscillation increasing to the point where it felt like it was going to flip itself over. This would occur when going in a straight line, on flat ground, and while moving at a constant speed in the range of 55-70 MPH. If I hit the brakes or the accelerator the oscillation would damp out almost immediately. And if I was going uphill at a constant speed it would not occur.

Turns out that the control arm bushings were dry rotted out and the axle was basically "floating." When not under a load, the axle could move fore-aft by a significant amount (probably an inch or so) due to the rotted bushings. When under load, the axle was forced forward, and when under braking, it was forced rearward; in neither case was there any play so the oscillation could not develop.

I had several mechanics look at it and they were all completely baffled. Eventually someone told me to check out the control arm bushings. I replaced them myself and the vehicle never misbehaved again.

Okay, so I'm not sure what that story has to do with your situation, but it was the weirdest single problem I ever experienced with any car or truck.
 

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Anyone have any ideas of anything besides the tires it could be?
Did you ever remount your old wheels/tires that rode smooth and determined if the shake was still there?
After the used cheapies didnt work out, did you buy another set of brand new cheapies and still had the shake?
Did the shake change at all between the two sets or was it the same?
Did the tire shops try to balance the wheel/tire combo or did they just go for a test drive?

Odds are, I'd say its the tires. If 3 tire shops all agree that it's the tires, and your problem happened after the replacing the tires, then its probably the tires.
 

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Did the tire shops show you the tires on the machine or a print out of the balance results? How much weight did they put on the rims? Also, considering the simple things are you sure those rims are correct for your truck, they might has the same bolt pattern and snug down but not be centered to the the hub causing the issue.

typically the death wobble is in solid front axle vehicles but if your front end is trashed the IFS will wobble.
 

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VIBRATION:
We are TOLD that modern radials of any price range should be "round". Those of us who worked on vehicles before the radial days know an "out-of-round" condition of over 3/32nd was enough to disqualify that tire for service. Problem is - I have found - not often, but seen it...significant out-of-round in even the most expensive tires.

Every tire shop I knew about in the old days had what was called a "tire knife" - a device that looked much like a modern computer wheel-balancer - was essentially a lathe-like cutting device that would trim a tire to absolute "round". (side note - how many of you know that when you have a suspiciously out-of-round tire/wheel combo, before doing anything else..break the bead loose and rotate the tire on the wheel 180 degrees.

With a good modern computer-balancer rig (mine is an EAGLE) I can balance ANY tire/wheel combo no matter how out-of-round the tire is, and even if that is combined with an "out-of-true' wheel. But you will still get any manner of weird "harmonics" from that, even on modern IFS.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Awesome, thanks everyone for the responses!

To address the wheels - they are an XD Hoss 2 20x10 -24 offset and of course 8x6.5 lug pattern. I am thinking these are lug centric right so I shouldn't need a hub centric ring too?

On to the tires - after returning the cheapy ones I had the last shop re-mount my stock wheel and tires and rides smooth as butter as it did before the new wheels/tires.

I have yet to buy any new good ("expensive") tires yet but I am shopping around for them currently.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also meant to add - each tire shop I went to I walked into the shop and watched the balance process and they were having to put 4 to 6oz on just about all 4 of them "as best as they could"
 

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Did the rims come off of a GM vehicle or did come off of a Dodge or OBS ford? They're different hubs than GM, also don't count out that rim might be out of balance, one of my friends had a vibration on a single Mayhem Missile, and it was very similar to your problem. He jacked his truck up, ran it in both 2wd and 4wd to isolate the where it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did the rims come off of a GM vehicle or did come off of a Dodge or OBS ford? They're different hubs than GM, also don't count out that rim might be out of balance, one of my friends had a vibration on a single Mayhem Missile, and it was very similar to your problem. He jacked his truck up, ran it in both 2wd and 4wd to isolate the where it was.
They came off of a Dodge 2nd gen actually. So in that case is there anything I would need? Anything that could cause that issue?

The last shop put just the wheels alone on the balancer and checked the wheels out and couldn't find an issue - is there anything else to look for on the wheel itself?
 

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If no one can balance the tires, then I would be 99.9% convinced that it’s the wheels and/or tires.
The more weight you have to put on to get them close to balancing, you’ll still get a bad ride.
The shop would probably put those on the rear, but you’d need good balanced tires on the front.
But at 4-6 ounces and still not good, those tires are only good for bumpers at a go-cart track.
Now if you had bought new tires from the shop and they had to use that much weight to get them as close as possible, they would have removed those tires and put on different new tires.

It might be time to just accept the fact that you gots someone else’s previous issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If no one can balance the tires, then I would be 99.9% convinced that it’s the wheels and/or tires.
The more weight you have to put on to get them close to balancing, you’ll still get a bad ride.
The shop would probably put those on the rear, but you’d need good balanced tires on the front.
But at 4-6 ounces and still not good, those tires are only good for bumpers at a go-cart track.
Now if you had bought new tires from the shop and they had to use that much weight to get them as close as possible, they would have removed those tires and put on different new tires.

It might be time to just accept the fact that you gots someone else’s previous issues.
I'm really hoping I didn't get someone's issue for sure. I had the wheels checked out and even checked on the road force balancer and no one could find any issue with the wheels.

So, I'm pretty much onboard that it's the tires as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's just hard to believe that it's a coincidence that the tires that came on them (used Atturo) and then bought brand new cheap ones has the same issue on the truck.

In my process of elimination I'm thinking this is what I've ruled out, but someone tell me if I'm wrong, please!

Not the wheels as I've had them checked out and verified that they are in the best shape everyone can tell.

Not the truck since it doesn't do it with the stock wheels just with the aftermarket wheels.

So I guess that just leaves the tires....I guess I will fork out 1600 bucks on a good set of Nitto Terra Grappler G2s and try them. I've never ran Nittos before but then again this is my first set of "big" wheels/tires.
 

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Since the wheels are off a Dodge, you might do a little research on compatibility for GM trucks, contact the wheel manufacture for info.
I’m a Nitto person, I’ve had Nitto Tierra Graplers, Nitto Tierra Grapler G2’s, now Nitto Ridge Grapplers, which are my favorite.
Depending on the size the Ridge Grapplers are about 1” - 1 1/2” wider tread than the G2’s.
First Picture is my 285/70R17 G2’s which are now on my 79 Chevy K20, they was on my GMC 3500.
Second picture is my 295/55R20 Ridge Grapplers currently on my GMC 3500.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Since the wheels are off a Dodge, you might do a little research on compatibility for GM trucks, contact the wheel manufacture for info.
I’m a Nitto person, I’ve had Nitto Tierra Graplers, Nitto Tierra Grapler G2’s, now Nitto Ridge Grapplers, which are my favorite.
Depending on the size the Ridge Grapplers are about 1” - 1 1/2” wider tread than the G2’s.
First Picture is my 285/70R17 G2’s which are now on my 79 Chevy K20, they was on my GMC 3500.
Second picture is my 295/55R20 Ridge Grapplers currently on my GMC 3500.
I like those both, they look good for sure. How comfortable of a tire are the Terra grapplers to ride on daily driving as that's all my truck ever sees is pavement haha.

My local shop I always use recommend the Mastercraft AXT (built by cooper tires and the same tire as the cooper At3). They are about $300 cheaper than the Nittos so I had also contemplated those.
 

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$1600 for 4 tires :surprise:
Where are you buying 4 G2’s that costs $400 per tire. 'dunno;
The tires shouldn't cost much more than about $1000.
The wheels above post with G2’s mounted cost $110 each new @ Discount tire.
$1600 would be more in line cost for wheels and tires.
Do you have a Discount Tire in your area, even try pricing on Discount Tire Direct.
 

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I like those both, they look good for sure. How comfortable of a tire are the Terra grapplers to ride on daily driving as that's all my truck ever sees is pavement haha.

My local shop I always use recommend the Mastercraft AXT (built by cooper tires and the same tire as the cooper At3). They are about $300 cheaper than the Nittos so I had also contemplated those.
My G2’s rode just as good as my ex Michlens MS2 which ended up a crappy tire that couldn't handle my trailer and cracked around the bead.
Discount warrantied them putting on G2’s.
I didn’t notice any difference with the ride between the G2’s and Ridge Grapplers.
Both are quiet and ride quite good.
My truck is pretty much a daily driver, with a little towing about twice a year.
I went for looks and ride all in one for me. :thumb

I learned my lesson years ago, never go with a tire that a tire dealer recommends.
It’s always something that really doesn’t move that well, and they usually get a kick-back bonus if they can sell them.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I wish I could find them that cheap and I would have already hit Purchase!! Haha

I have gotten 3 quotes from shops around me including discount tire and they are all between 1500 and 1600 for 4 tires mounted, balanced, and installed.

It's crazy I know which I why I am still riding my stock wheels today I just can't pull the trigger on that much money.

However the Mastercrafts that were recommended to me I have read really good reviews on as well as used the Cooper At3 which is the same thing and it did really good and is significantly cheaper which I why I am considering it.
 
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