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Discussion starter · #82 ·
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The wall thickness is too thin.
Kinda what I was thinking... a couple of screws close together about size of hole you want to drill eventually.. and you could remove them to let leak down... if it works, cut the hole there and that eliminates the screws... they will hold by themselves...
 
You could probably just use a high strength plastic epoxy to secure a drain on since options are limited to getting inside the tank.
 
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Discussion starter · #85 ·
You could probably just use a high strength plastic epoxy to secure a drain on since options are limited to getting inside the tank.
Actually that is a great idea, and fairly easy to make happen as there is a large selection of parts that can be adapted. I have already sourced some parts for that option if anyone would like to use that method. And the pics in the thread allow for them to pic their spot for the drain hole. I would pick a side mount rather than a bottom mount as the side mount you have a smooth external surface, but either would work. Also, epoxy is unaffected by urea.

I have moved from a drain method to a siphon method for warranty purposes, even though the drain is a better system IMO. I have found silicone tubing that is stiff enough to get down the truck's fill tube, and flexible enough to drop into the tank as soon as it enters at the flapper valve. I will need to figure out what to use in the end for a weight/clunk to put INTO the tubing so as not to catch on the flapper valve when removing the tube. It needs to be heavy enough to cause the tube to drop nearly straight down but not so heavy to kink the tubing.

I've been a little distracted for the last couple weeks with family visiting.
 
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Actually that is a great idea, and fairly easy to make happen as there is a large selection of parts that can be adapted. I have already sourced some parts for that option if anyone would like to use that method. And the pics in the thread allow for them to pic their spot for the drain hole. I would pick a side mount rather than a bottom mount as the side mount you have a smooth external surface, but either would work. Also, epoxy is unaffected by urea.

I have moved from a drain method to a siphon method for warranty purposes, even though the drain is a better system IMO. I have found silicone tubing that is stiff enough to get down the truck's fill tube, and flexible enough to drop into the tank as soon as it enters at the flapper valve. I will need to figure out what to use in the end for a weight/clunk to put INTO the tubing so as not to catch on the flapper valve when removing the tube. It needs to be heavy enough to cause the tube to drop nearly straight down but not so heavy to kink the tubing.

I've been a little distracted for the last couple weeks with family visiting.

I'd like to see what your thinking of as far as parts. Probably going to put one on my 19. Would rather have a plug type than valve as it would be less likely to fail and plug could be easily replaced.

Quick looking I think a standard boat transom drain plug would work good. Pretty much made to be epoxied on to begin with. Looking for a black one.
 
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1087862
The “plastic” seems to be similar to old black plumbing plastic you chemically weld”, not sorta stick/bond..


For making the hole, I would use a wood burning tool (pointed / pencil soldering iron) and push straight in. This way thereis little chance of chunks / shavings getting into the tank.
I suppose you could use special cutting tip in a Weller “gun” type soldering iron
1087863


you could cut a square from the tank then a larger square to overlap a 1/2” or so.

install a bulkhead or other fitting to the “patch” (drill and mount or glue/weld if possible.

now weld the patch and bulkhead fitting assembly over the tank cutout.
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
View attachment 1087862 The “plastic” seems to be similar to old black plumbing plastic you chemically weld”, not sorta stick/bond..


For making the hole, I would use a wood burning tool (pointed / pencil soldering iron) and push straight in. This way thereis little chance of chunks / shavings getting into the tank.
I suppose you could use special cutting tip in a Weller “gun” type soldering iron
Great idea for creating the hole.

I have changed direction and will make a siphon tube. I have the silicone tubing, just need to weight the end, pretty easy. I haven't worked on it recently due to other stuff. I want to figure out the perfect length to go into the tank. Since I have a separate tank to come up with the length, I will post it up when done. Probably a couple short videos as well.
 
Since it is a vented tank, a round hole the size of the “hose weight and clamp”, higher up might be easier to fish in and recover the siphon. Then just jam a plug in after siphon.
 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
Since it is a vented tank, a round hole the size of the “hose weight and clamp”, higher up might be easier to fish in and recover the siphon. Then just jam a plug in after siphon.
Going through the fill hole is the way to go. Like I said I have a sample tank. I just need to try several different sized weights on the end of the tubing. Reason being is how the tubing enters the tank through the fill hose. It needs to fall in pretty quickly as it clears the flapper valve to go into the deepest part of the tank. But, the weight can't be so heavy to kink the hose. So a little trial and error with different weights is all that needs to be done.

I will also give exact measurements of the hose and associated landmarks on the truck so it can be accurately repeated by others.
 
I have a 2012 lml with 26xxx on it and live in Phoenix.... I am going to start running blue def platinum to see if it will prevent the build up.... sounds like it will.

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Be careful, others have had problems after switching, just like the guys that had a hundred thousand on their truck then switching to bio diesel.
Really? So should I stay with the other stuff? I was thinking about draining the other stuff but might not be worth it.

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Really? So should I stay with the other stuff? I was thinking about draining the other stuff but might not be worth it.

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If you have been using one without issue, there is no evidence change will help.

If it ain’t broke.. don’t fix it
 
I have a 2012 lml with 26xxx on it and live in Phoenix.... I am going to start running blue def platinum to see if it will prevent the build up.... sounds like it will.

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I just switched, no issues so far. I also did a dry test and there is a big difference in the way the two crystallize. I'll try to post pics tomorrow. Honestly I think it better to always keep the tank full rather than have air space.
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
I just switched, no issues so far. I also did a dry test and there is a big difference in the way the two crystallize. I'll try to post pics tomorrow. Honestly I think it better to always keep the tank full rather than have air space.
In theory I tend to agree. But if you don't put on enough miles before the DEF goes bad, then you need to be able to drain the tank when you throw a code for bad DEF.

But yes, having the tank get build up while less than full could cause the DEF to become too rich, greater than 32.5%, when the crystals are washed off and redissolved in fresh DEF.

One of the scenarios that prompted this thread in the first place.
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
I have a 2012 lml with 26xxx on it and live in Phoenix.... I am going to start running blue def platinum to see if it will prevent the build up.... sounds like it will.

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I would love to hear your results and opinion of the Platnium. In concept it sounds good.
 
I would love to hear your results and opinion of the Platnium. In concept it sounds good.
In 9 years I have only had the def heater issue covered under warranty. I will try to pick some up and see. I have only used blue def non platinum or supertech... Phoenix is [emoji91]

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I have a 2020 Silverado 2500HD Duramax I got DEF at the pump locally and within 3 miles I got the DEF quality poor on my display I called the dealership and they were talking about 2 weeks to fix it, they don’t have any loaners. I couldn’t go without the truck that long, so I got on here to see if anyone else had figured out how to drain the DEF tank, I took the siphoning idea and tried it and couldn’t get into the tank so I found the inlet connection and squeezed the green connectors on the hose pulled the hose off and stuck the vinyl 1/2” OD tubing in and a hand pump into a 5gal bucket. Got about 4 gallons out and refilled with regular peak blue def and started the truck and the DEF quality poor was gone.
Go to Lowe’s and get a hand pump item #1178561 and 3/8id 1/2od pvc tubing item #814318 , I got the 20’ but you probably don’t need that much. Less than $30 and about 30 minutes to get it all done and put back together.
 
I have a 2020 Silverado 2500HD Duramax I got DEF at the pump locally and within 3 miles I got the DEF quality poor on my display I called the dealership and they were talking about 2 weeks to fix it, they don’t have any loaners. I couldn’t go without the truck that long, so I got on here to see if anyone else had figured out how to drain the DEF tank, I took the siphoning idea and tried it and couldn’t get into the tank so I found the inlet connection and squeezed the green connectors on the hose pulled the hose off and stuck the vinyl 1/2” OD tubing in and a hand pump into a 5gal bucket. Got about 4 gallons out and refilled with regular peak blue def and started the truck and the DEF quality poor was gone.
Go to Lowe’s and get a hand pump item #1178561 and 3/8id 1/2od pvc tubing item #814318 , I got the 20’ but you probably don’t need that much. Less than $30 and about 30 minutes to get it all done and put back together.
I am glad to hear that this worked for you! That is encouraging.
 
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