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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello,

I am Trying to better understand the hot and cold side Intercooler pipes, the Y-bridge, and how these all correlate with the EGR if you where to do a full EGR delete.

From what I have read on other threads I am understanding that the EGR delete tube you get (Profab's, Sinister's, Deviant's, All Season, ect) plugs into the stock Y-Bridge, However I heard this can make them blow apart. So then people say by a 3" welded shorty Y-Bridge. But then wouldn't the rubber tubing used to connect the EGR delete tube to the shorty Y-Bridge be just as susceptible to blowing apart now that it would be the weak link? Does anyone make a fully welded, mandrel bent EGR delete/ Y-Bridge setup?

If your going to do a full EGR delete on the LLY lets say (Money Aside) What is the best way to go about it and the setup that will be the least problematic or most bullet proof setup?

My truck is not programmed and I am not sure if I want to program it yet, will my truck throw a code? If it does could I just use a finger stick? Or is the finger stick not recommend? I have installed 5" DP back exhaust, S&B MP, PCV reroute, and a 3" DP and I have no check engine light or codes thrown that I am aware of.

Hot & Cold intercooler pipes - I want to get 3" intercooler pipes most likely from HSP so I can color match them. But I don't want to buy these, then go to do the EGR delete and Y-Bridge and find out one of my intercooler pipes is not going to work with the EGR delete and Y-Bridge setup? How do the intercooler pipes correlate with the Y-Bridge & EGR? Or am I just way off my rocker right now and the intercooler pipes will be totally fine with whatever EGR delete/ Y-Bridge setup I go with?

Any Comment's, Pictures, Advise, What Setup you are running will be much Appreciated!
 

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Hello,

I am Trying to better understand the hot and cold side Intercooler pipes, the Y-bridge, and how these all correlate with the EGR if you where to do a full EGR delete.

From what I have read on other threads I am understanding that the EGR delete tube you get (Profab's, Sinister's, Deviant's, All Season, ect) plugs into the stock Y-Bridge, However I heard this can make them blow apart. So then people say by a 3" welded shorty Y-Bridge. But then wouldn't the rubber tubing used to connect the EGR delete tube to the shorty Y-Bridge be just as susceptible to blowing apart now that it would be the weak link? Does anyone make a fully welded, mandrel bent EGR delete/ Y-Bridge setup?

If you did that, depending on your configuration, you would have to remove your y-bridge to change the alternator. Yes, several vendors offer fully welded y-bridge & mandrel bent tubing. No, as the bridge and tube have beads rolled into them that allow the tube clamps to hold.

If your going to do a full EGR delete on the LLY lets say (Money Aside) What is the best way to go about it and the setup that will be the least problematic or most bullet proof setup?

Y-bridge and cold side pipe, and either a modified PS up pipe or a block off plate.

My truck is not programmed and I am not sure if I want to program it yet, will my truck throw a code? If it does could I just use a finger stick? Or is the finger stick not recommend? I have installed 5" DP back exhaust, S&B MP, PCV reroute, and a 3" DP and I have no check engine light or codes thrown that I am aware of.

You will need a programmer to delete the egr motor.

Hot & Cold intercooler pipes - I want to get 3" intercooler pipes most likely from HSP so I can color match them. But I don't want to buy these, then go to do the EGR delete and Y-Bridge and find out one of my intercooler pipes is not going to work with the EGR delete and Y-Bridge setup? How do the intercooler pipes correlate with the Y-Bridge & EGR? Or am I just way off my rocker right now and the intercooler pipes will be totally fine with whatever EGR delete/ Y-Bridge setup I go with?

Best thing to do is call a vendor and get all your questions answered. There are several vendors who offer high quality kits.

Any Comment's, Pictures, Advise, What Setup you are running will be much Appreciated!

I have the pro-fab y-bridge and cold pipe on my truck and really like it.
 

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It's two pieces
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the photo! How much did the Y-Bridge and EGR delete pipe run you?

Also just to clear this up, that EGR delete profab pipe that your picture shows runs down to the bottom side of your radiator on the passenger side also called the cold side intercooler pipe correct? but profab fabricated a 2 in one with a EGR delete and cold side intercooler pipe correct?
 

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Thanks for the photo! How much did the Y-Bridge and EGR delete pipe run you?



Also just to clear this up, that EGR delete profab pipe that your picture shows runs down to the bottom side of your radiator on the passenger side also called the cold side intercooler pipe correct? but profab fabricated a 2 in one with a EGR delete and cold side intercooler pipe correct?

Welcome. Around $500 or so I think, it's been a while since I've looked at them.

Pro fab has a couple of options, you can do just the EGR delete, which replaces the cast intake setup (on LBZ, not sure on LLY) with a pipe that goes from the intercooler to the factory y-bridge. The other option is the route I went with, which is the y-bridge and cold side pipe, which does delete the EGR as well as flow better than the factory setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welcome. Around $500 or so I think, it's been a while since I've looked at them.

Pro fab has a couple of options, you can do just the EGR delete, which replaces the cast intake setup (on LBZ, not sure on LLY) with a pipe that goes from the intercooler to the factory y-bridge. The other option is the route I went with, which is the y-bridge and cold side pipe, which does delete the EGR as well as flow better than the factory setup.
Sounds good thank you. I was looking at some of HSP diesel's setup last night, I think they do the same thing as profab. Plus you can color match with HSP
 

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Intercooler Pipes & Y-Bridge in correlation to EGR Delete?

Sounds good thank you. I was looking at some of HSP diesel's setup last night, I think they do the same thing as profab. Plus you can color match with HSP

Welcome. They make high quality stuff and are great guys to work with.
 

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I did the HSP. I would recommend getting a Federal LB7 uppipe vs just capping the LLY uppipe. Profab has a cap with support for the LLY uppipe, however, a LB7 uppipe can be found for $100 to $150 and will have ZERO chance of breaking where the capped LLY could. Many have good luck with the supported and non supported caped uppipe. For me, I wanted to be done with it so I found an LB7 for $100 shipped. Cutting and welding the LLY uppipe is an option also.

What I have noticed is that my turbo spools faster and my ECT's are lower and cool faster. Mt EGT's seem lower overall especially when pushing hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did the HSP. I would recommend getting a Federal LB7 uppipe vs just capping the LLY uppipe.Cutting and welding the LLY uppipe is an option also.

What I have noticed is that my turbo spools faster and my ECT's are lower and cool faster. Mt EGT's seem lower overall especially when pushing hard.
POWDR - Did you happen to get your pipe powder coated? Im wondering what the difference is between the Gloss colors and Candy colors as there is a $30 difference in price.

For the up pipes, I was planning on getting the LB7, and maybe eventually getting HSP's larger diameter one's at some point.

Thanks for the reply!
 

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You will need a finger stick minimum but Efi live is recommended.

I'm following this post as well. My lly is in need of headgaskets so I'm looking to do other mods while I'm in there. Currently looking at an SDP egr delete pipe and cutting my lly up pipe and welding a cap on. In addition to studs and water pump. Is the stock Y bridge ok to run with the delete pipe?
 

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ProFab, LB7 & EFI Live

I ended up doing some research before I jumped off the deep end and now having completed it, I love the performance and feel of my LLY.

I started with EFI Live and had them disable the EGR and I installed an EGR Blocker plate temporarily until I figured out my options for deleting. I didn't want a check engine light on. Yes it'll set a couple codes if you delete without EFI Live or something to fool the system. I was curious, so I unplugged my EGR and went for a short test drive before installing my tunes. It set 3 codes. 2 codes for EGR performance and 1 for over boost. When those codes set my truck would not build any boost.

After my little experiment, I returned home, cleared the codes with my Edge and installed EFI Live. Went for another test drive... OMG what a difference. After a couple months, I found a deal on a clean used ProFab EGR Delete pipe (in the DF for sale section) and snapped it up. I also got the LB7 up pipe & LMM left exhaust manifold. I did get new gaskets for everything as I didn't want to reuse the old gaskets, just for fear of them leaking, cheap insurance.

I tore into my truck on a weekend and had it done in one day. For a truck with only 75K, that EGR intake sure was gummed up and nasty.

I had already installed a down pipe and exhaust.

This has helped reduce EGTs, the turbo whistle is more pronounced, better MPG and just pure fun to drive!

As a side benefit, my LLY now has turbo braking! They can activate turbo braking when you order your EFI Live tune! I LOVE having that active when towing!
 
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