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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Title doesn't really say what the topic is, but what the heck. Just finished the EGR block and Finger Stick on my '04 LLY. Still trying to figure out how to reroute the PCV without getting caught when the smog folks do the semi-annual smog check. Also, just ordered an LBZ inlet from GM PartsDirect. $112.32 delivered. i hope it comes before Christmas. I'd like to install it for the annual trip to Dumont Dunes for New Years. It's a good mix of up and down hill along with some flat desert running, about 180 mi one way. Great opportunity to check mileage gains and heat loss.
Was waffling about buying the aFe BladeRunner, or the KB A-IOH kit, but in the end, thought that the LBZ install is well within my skill set. It does look huge. We shall see.
 

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nice you will like it, do this as well when you install the lbz mouth piece. All parts bought at summit




if you interested I can give you the parts needed, just two elbows, and the 4" alum tubing. Supper easy, no need to cut the stock intake tube up and you still have the stock air box in place. This makes it a true 4" intake and takes full benefit of the MP. No re calibration need either!
 

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How would you benefit from the aluminum intake? Yeah it'd 4" but wouldnt it transfer heat more?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey dukcaln, nice shiny stuff under the hood. always a treat to see that. I'm trying to preserve as much of my Banks RamAir induction as possible. Got too much tied up in that to shit-can it yet, besides, the stock airbox went away when the Banks was installed (by Banks). My MAF sensor is already moved to about where your shiny tube meets the elbow that connects to the mouthpiece. i'm hoping that my mods will be just trimming the air plumbing to meet the mouthpiece opening, and getting the right size fitting to connect both together. We'll see...
 

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Hey dukcaln, nice shiny stuff under the hood. always a treat to see that. I'm trying to preserve as much of my Banks RamAir induction as possible. Got too much tied up in that to shit-can it yet, besides, the stock airbox went away when the Banks was installed (by Banks). My MAF sensor is already moved to about where your shiny tube meets the elbow that connects to the mouthpiece. i'm hoping that my mods will be just trimming the air plumbing to meet the mouthpiece opening, and getting the right size fitting to connect both together. We'll see...
you should be able to get it to work, just will need the correct coupler. Probably can find it at home depot
 

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Hey dukcaln, nice shiny stuff under the hood. always a treat to see that. I'm trying to preserve as much of my Banks RamAir induction as possible. Got too much tied up in that to shit-can it yet, besides, the stock airbox went away when the Banks was installed (by Banks). My MAF sensor is already moved to about where your shiny tube meets the elbow that connects to the mouthpiece. i'm hoping that my mods will be just trimming the air plumbing to meet the mouthpiece opening, and getting the right size fitting to connect both together. We'll see...
I am not sure about heat transfer. I will have to monitor it and if it does get a 4" plastic tube instead, but I figured that with the stock box mod and the MP, why not make it a true 4" intake for the full benefit.
 

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Is there any added benefit to a true 4" intake?
 

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Please post the results of how you connected to the banks ram air. I have the ram air & plan to upgrade to the LBZ MP very soon.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update! The LBZ mouthpiece arrived today and tomorrow will find me under the hood, bright and early. I'll take pics and document the install. looks like a 4" no-hub (without the stainless girdle) or a 4" ABS connector may work. I'll take the part to Home Depot and fit it up. Who'da thought I ever be shopping for hi-performance parts in the sewer department of Home Depot. I'll see waht I can find in Garden while I'm there.
 

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Update! The LBZ mouthpiece arrived today and tomorrow will find me under the hood, bright and early. I'll take pics and document the install. looks like a 4" no-hub (without the stainless girdle) or a 4" ABS connector may work. I'll take the part to Home Depot and fit it up. Who'da thought I ever be shopping for hi-performance parts in the sewer department of Home Depot. I'll see waht I can find in Garden while I'm there.
I'm looking forward to your results. I have an LBZ mouthpiece on the way that should be here by Wednesday (great Christmas Eve project!!!!) :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
JOE_LEE: thank you for that link. You have saved me a great deal of time in trouble! I thought for sure I would have to cut the intake tube to match up to the new LBZ tube. Not so. All I need now is a 31/2 X 4" coupler and I will be done. I had no idea that Banks intake tube would fit directly inside the LBZ mouthpiece.
I was about to wait for Monday to roll around so I could call Banks engineering and inquire about the cost of an LBZ intake elbow to go on my LLY system so that I can make the connection and have the MAF sensor come up where it belongs. Sounds like the LLY version is the better choice.
I'm off to Pep Boys to get that connector, providing they still sell it. (Also, providing I can still find a pep boys store)
 

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JOE_LEE: thank you for that link. You have saved me a great deal of time in trouble! I thought for sure I would have to cut the intake tube to match up to the new LBZ tube. Not so. All I need now is a 31/2 X 4" coupler and I will be done. I had no idea that Banks intake tube would fit directly inside the LBZ mouthpiece.
I was about to wait for Monday to roll around so I could call Banks engineering and inquire about the cost of an LBZ intake elbow to go on my LLY system so that I can make the connection and have the MAF sensor come up where it belongs. Sounds like the LLY version is the better choice.
I'm off to Pep Boys to get that connector, providing they still sell it. (Also, providing I can still find a pep boys store)
Let me know what coupling you end up using. If I read the link correctly he said he used the 3.5x4 because he had it already but a 4x4 coupling would work as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
J_L: went to home depot...pep boys not real close. Not a great solution to the problem, as plumbing measurements don't translate exactly you buy a 4" coupling and it is actually 4 1/2" inside diameter. The Banks intake tube does slip right in to the mouthpiece. I might trim it a bit when I do finally do the install. I'M holding off for a day to get the best copling for the task. The plumbing solution just looks dumb.
 

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I understand that; where do you plan to check for a better coupling?
 

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The heat soak to that aluminium is not really that relevant anyway as it still passes through the intercooler. The flow you pick up by adding .5 inches is pretty good though.
 

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I installed my LBZ mouthpiece today with the banks ram air. I used the $7 plumbing coupling just to get it installed.

After I finished I went back and cut a couple of inches off of the intake tube. I'm not sure it makes a difference but I didn't like the smaller diameter tube of the ram air sticking inside of the LBZ MP. The reason for the switch of MPs was larger diameter so it made sense to me to cut the intake tube back where it had a larger ID than the stock tapered end.

I'll be searching for a better coupling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I managed to finish the mouthpiece installation today. I got a silicone sleeve 4"id from Silicone Hose | Silicone Vacuum Hose | Silicone Radiator Hose - Flex Technologies 2 clamps, 4"X 4" sleeve and shipping, $35.00. I also trimmed the Banks intake tube, for the same reason as JOE_LEE. My install took ALL DAY because I needed to modify the inlet pipe on the egr cooler. The LBZ mouthpiece hit it and looked to be very close to hitting the underside of the hood. I chose not to grind on the seam of the mouthpiece because I didn't want to do anything that would cause it to split, and removing material seemed to be compromising that seam.
I removed the egr cooler and cut a small pie-shaped piece of metal from the underside of the forward inlet pipe, bent the pipe down to close the gap, and welded the seam shut. It passed a pressure check, so it was back together time.
Finally, as the sun is going down, I get the truck fired up (after replacing the coolant I drained...it was due anyhow) and it runs fine, except I now have a CEL. I figured it out...forgot to reconnect the egr motor.
Now, I notice that the Banks system won't work. I was going to use it to clear the CEL. Discovered the cable that connects to the pda had shorted out because the sun and elements had compromised the insulation at the modular 6pin plug. It fried the yellow wire that goes into the OBDll port. I replaced all the fried wire and still no Banks. Worse yet, my code reader won't work when plugged in to the OBD port. Looks like I fried the 5volt source coming from the ECM (or is it ECU?) Shit.
Well, at least the truck runs. I sure hope that CEL is just the unplugged egr motor. can't read the code because the OBD doesn't work now. I'm beginning to tire of this one-step-forward-three-steps-backwards crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update! Gotta tell ya, I love the internet. Got a nights sleep and hit it this am. Internet search for ecm fuse brought me to guess where? Yeah, here. The ecm is fused thru the cigarette lighter. It all works now. Let's see how it pulls. I'm so happy I could squirt.
 
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