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Get high or go Fast? 2015 ideas...?

  • Relift the LML with bigger wheels and tires + Cp3 Conversion

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Discussion Starter #15,442
Roll with me on this one guys, spitballing an idea that fits my needs better..

I was fixing a broken running light wire that powers the left rear fender light, and started thinking..

So my trailer only being a year old with damage to both fenders is killing me, and replacements are pricey, and I can’t tig aluminum :(

So since the fenders are 72”, what if I bought single axle fenders (36”L) with backs that way they can slide onto the four tabs that are on the trailer itself behind the tires. All I would need to do is weld some simple brackets on to attach the opposite ends of the fenders to the existing brackets near the running lights.

In between the fenders themselves I was thinking a sort of “step” like something tasteful attached to say a piece of pipe angle cut and welded to a flat plate that could be bolted to the channel of the trailer..

When I haul the Sierra around I don’t open the doors and always climb in and out of the window opening, and I’ve gotten good at that without stepping on the fender itself.

(A) single axle fenders are very cheap
(B) if one gets damaged I’ll only lose a foot and not the whole leg ;)

Thoughts?
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Discussion Starter #15,444
First time it was me stepping down on the passenger side but I straightened it up pretty good

But the driver side was a forklift driver when my cousin borrowed it


;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15,445 (Edited)
Started on my idea for individual fenders that don’t cost and arm and a leg to replace like the one piece aluminum ones.

Picked up some 2”x1/8” flat bar to make a center bar that uses the two tabs per axle to hold the fender against the channel. My next plan is to drill one hole for each fender or maybe two idk, and do some quick release pins and if not maybe thread the channel and do some “knob” style fasteners. I do need to drill a hole in each bar to “center” them each time they’re installed. It’s different, that’s for sure..


I’d like to change how the lights attach as well as maybe the lights themselves, and turn the existing brackets into step pads, maybe cut out some 3/8” plate I have and bolt some stuff in.


The Sierra is going to get a complete redo, stretched, and turned into a 1 ton, so in theory the fenders won’t ever need to come off again for me..

36” OAL
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Mock up
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You gonna cut those in half, fill the centers with steel and use the other halves for the other side?

Those trailer wheels would look better bare steel rusted.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15,447 (Edited)
Ha no way Jose!

I have four full-size fenders :)

I have the passenger side mocked up and tacked, ready to be fully welded. I figured out how to keep it anchored down, just need to find some decent size knobs (no sexual pun intended).

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Plus the stray cat in the shadows..
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Saw it a few months ago, much smaller, and it stuck around so we keep feeding it!

It’s grown up for sure, even think it snagged itself a squirrel or two because I’ve seen it 15’ up in a tree before and saw the remains of a squirrel tail in the yard...
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Had a stray that looked just like that back in the day. Starvin' marvin is what we named him lol. Was a great mouse hunter.
 
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Discussion Starter #15,449
I wish this one would help out with the mole issues :)

You know, let nature take care of nature haha
 

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Oh he will once he discovers them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15,451 (Edited)
All done,
Drilled and tapped the top of the channel to 3/8-16.

I have some fasteners on order, as well as some 1/4” plate from work I’m going to cut to fit the existing brackets to make them “steps”.

Even touched up the areas where the old fenders messed up the coating, which would be exposed with a shorter setup.

The angle of the rear support bar looks crazy in the picture but it’s straight!
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Discussion Starter #15,453
I had to do it :)

Actually thinking about taking some spare aluminum tread plate and cutting out the inner parts and “bolting” the backs in..

Not high priority at the moment but it’s on my mind since I have a few sheets from work..
 

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Discussion Starter #15,454
Had a code the other morning for a P0671, saying the glow plug circuit for cylinder #1 was open. Sooooo I went to Oreilys, spent $20.56 for an AC Delco part and installed it. Now, the CEL was on post installation so I cleared it, but if it comes back on I’ll have to get back on the old google machine and see what’s next...like a module maybe :(

Anyways,
It was a simple install, it was a 7mm for the liner screws, 12mm deep for the actual GP, and iirc an 8mm for the “Nut” holding the terminal on.

The engine was cold, and it was about 50 degrees outside. All I did was spray some liquid wrench and let it set for about ten minutes..

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Discussion Starter #15,455
Comparing the two, before putting a little anti seize on the threads and fastening everything back down.

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Post photo I used some scotch-brite on the terminal
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Wow you got the little nut off without twisting off the small threaded end of the glow plug. I always end up doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15,457
How many have you had to replace?

I feel it was beginners luck, reading stories online of the tip breaking off, I will admit I was nervous but it came out with little trouble!
 

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I changed 4 on my 2010. And I think #4 cylinder plug was twice. Have never had a problem getting actual glow plug out. But I only tightened snug.
 

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Discussion Starter #15,459 (Edited)
117K Miles

Recently I installed a new MOOG Pitman/Idler arm & assembly as well as new heims for the FFR tie rods, to celebrate I put some new wheels and tires on the truck..

24x12 -51 Cali Offroad RAWKON wrapped in 305/35 Nitto Terra Grapplers

:)

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