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AZ GUGS,
What is level 2 hp rating, 'dunno; the only people that would know what level 2 is with Bully Dog is BD users or former BD users.
With you still running the DPF I feel adding 50+ HP towing would be pushing it.
Are these higher temps pulling grades ?
Are you in drive while towing and depending on the trans to do the thinking for you ?
Or
Are you towing the correct way by manual shifting and staying out of 6th gear ?
What about the RPM's the engine is maintaining while towing are you in the best ranges, 1800-2100 flat, 2200-2800 on grades which helps keep all the temps down.
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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I'm still not convinced the -10an is sufficient.
Long ago, in looking to piece together a cooler, I sat down with 'the old guy' head of a large hyd line place in town, opened up the old school books and checked the specs on both the -10an and the -12an.

Per the book, the -10an wasn't up to the Dmax volume flow. The -12an max was just above the Dmax flow.

The Sandwich comes as -10an, with -10an fittings. However, while the Dmax volume is up there, the psi is relatively low. No where near the max psi for -10an. That leaves some room to work with.

Work with, as in porting the -10an I.D. fittings on the sandwich, out to match the -12an I.D., then a -10an to -12an bushing to step up to the hose connections.
The wall thickness will be thinner than standard, but again, you don't have much for psi, so you'll be fine. And, you'll surely have adequate volume flow.
 

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I was pulling 10 miles of 6-8% grades with a 35 foot toyhauler anywhere from 70 to 45mph. 3rd gear a couple of times.
Towing pulling 6-8% grades 70-45 mph is another clue for disaster.
I've live in Phx 65 years and have traveled/towed most resent 32' toy box 13,500 lbs the same trip 45 mph gear depending on the RPM's would be max.
It doesn't take much pushing the mph your doing to heat everything up, and it takes a lot longer to get everything cooled down when your driving gets back to a more reasonable speed.
 

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I installed an oil temp gauge on my 05 LLY after reading all of the horror stories about high oil temps.

After two years of towing I have never seen my oil temp more than 10 degrees above the coolant temperatures.

I also have a Fumoto valve on the oil pan. I have read many that are concerned about the 1/8 qt of oil left in the pan and will not use the Fumoto valve. But now it is OK to leave 2 qts or 16% of the oil in the system when changing oil???
 

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I installed an oil temp gauge on my 05 LLY after reading all of the horror stories about high oil temps.



After two years of towing I have never seen my oil temp more than 10 degrees above the coolant temperatures.



I also have a Fumoto valve on the oil pan. I have read many that are concerned about the 1/8 qt of oil left in the pan and will not use the Fumoto valve. But now it is OK to leave 2 qts or 16% of the oil in the system when changing oil???


My .02, I don't like leaving oil in the system but I'm more apt to leave oil in a cooler rather than in the pan. Simple because in the bottom of the pan is where wear metals would be building up.
For 99% of people a cooler isn't necessary but if you have compounds and or tow heavy it's almost a must. Iv seen oil temps north of 275 with the way I work my truck. Hot oil means reduced piston cooling, I personally believe hot oil is the number 1 cause of cracked pistons in stock or conservatively tuned trucks.
 

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I also have a Fumoto valve on the oil pan. I have read many that are concerned about the 1/8 qt of oil left in the pan and will not use the Fumoto valve. But now it is OK to leave 2 qts or 16% of the oil in the system when changing oil???
Interesting theory, but its obvious none of these people that are concerned about maybe 1/8 qt left in with the Fumoto valve, have not paid attention to the poor oil pans design.
With that big hump there is at least 1 quart + left inside at all times.

I know, I put a small 1/4" ID 10" long hose inside with a natural curved towards the bottom of this hump and sucked out and measured 1 quart of oil.

I now drive the front of my truck up on 6" blocks with my driveway about a 3" upward incline, I do get pretty much all the oil out now.

Yes, I know they designed this joke of a oil pan for other model trucks, but I'd bet there are more 2500's and 3500's on the road where this oil pan design is not in our best interest.
 

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question



If I mount the cooler higher up in the cooling stack - will it change the (resting) oil level on my dip stick?- due to drain back
 

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I have run an oil cooler for ~40k miles now on my lb7. I have it mounted in line with my amsoil bypass filter. It's frame mounted with fans and a fiberglass shroud I molded myself. Prior to installing it in the summer idling with the ac on my truck would be 205* with the a/c literally blowing hot. After oil cooler install it idles at 185-192 with ice cold ac on the hottest days. If I unplug even one of my fans it goes right back to no a/c. Also, while towing 15-20k lbs it dropped my temps down ~30*... I don't slow down for hills 75/stock setup, which is currently changing, and I still see 235 ect 270 eot peaks in the summer. For the most part, it keeps it within 15-20* of ect empty or loaded, unless pulling hills, whereas before it would run 30-40* above just cruising 70 unloaded.
 

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Nickjames525 do you have any pics of your setup? I'm very interested in doing the same setup. Where did you locate the fan/cooler assembly? Do you have a thermostat control for the fans? Thanks in advance!
 

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To be completely honest, I鈥檓 not sure how to post pictures here. Pm me and I will get you some. It鈥檚 mounted behind the trasnfer case in front of the fuel tank.
 

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I fingered it out. Not the best picture but here it is. After this all I did was bolt some fans to it.
 

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Thank you, sir. I picked up an 11 x 11 cooler with attached 10" fan for $89. Plan on an automatic thermostat for it to turn it on and off. Also, plan on splicing into the Amsoil by-pass filter hose just have to figure out some adaptor fittings from 12AN to the Amsoil fittings. Thanks again!
 
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