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KRs longevity build

22606 Views 130 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  knotReally
This is a modest build, if it can be called a build, and will likely bore most. Well, too bad. I'm shooting for longevity not power. Its not a DD so I plan to own this vehicle a long time (>15 years). I'm at 4.5 years w/ 124k miles. I'm the second owner.

She's up on stands with completely empty wheel wells at the moment but here's whats going down (yes, everything is being done at once. Its not a daily and I'm fortunate to have space to leave'r be when i'm not working):

Control Arms
Kryptonite UCAs
Stock LCA w/ Energy Suspension bushings and Kryptonite ball joints
New Bump stops - old ones were non-existent
Energy Suspension sway bar bushings and end links

Kryptonite XD hubs

Steering stuff
Dmaxstore HD super stupid big tierods
Dmaxstore XD Pitman, Idler, and Idler support (the last being really nice since it came with a hose to finally relocate that hard-to-reach zerk)
Kryptonite PISK
I kept the stock centerlink and gear box. Although i'll probably check the gearbox before i re-install it.
LMM ISS bearing. Its not the same part as the LBZ/earlier models. See the some-beach series on the steering.
ISS (hopefully these two will remove my clunking noise. Thanks to mijdirtyjeep for the help)
P/S Cooler (thanks hook for the idea and write-up)

Bilstein 5100 on the corners
Rancho RS7000MT in the middle
Sulastic shackles with 1.5" drop shackles
Dorman 905-509 torsion bar mounts

LML port-side manifold (thanks DRC, i decided not to empty my wallet... at least not in this area)
LML Heat shield I tried pounding the old one. Needless to say how that worked out...
PPE T-case brace
Kennedy Single Lift pump deluxe kit (how-tos from hook, neutron, abreeden, and alisobob will all be helpful when I actually get to this)
AFE drop-in Proguard 7 Filter - thanks, again, for the idea DRC
Fuel filter housing spacer and billet bleed screw
PTP Turbo Blanket for Duramax ('04.5-'10)

MotorOps - thanks for the rec, DRC.

Ground Contact
BFG KO2s (update: they now have a 50k mile warrantied tire: Its the KO2 DT)
285/70-17 on stockers (thanks tyreboyz for the tire info)

Live 411
Edge Insight CTS2
EGT probe (not installed yet)

estimated time of completion: Late-April/Early-May (this year, of course).
Pics? maybe. Not doing anything flashy so the pics would be pretty vanilla (especially since my truck is white)
I do plan on, when i get time, posting my experiences from having performed this work. Most did this when their vehicles were younger. Mine is middle-aged so hopefully those getting their first LMM or modifying it for the first time can use this as a 'what to expect' POV.
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Sub a dub dub.
Lower Control arms - Ball joint and bushing replacement

Reused Arms
Kryptonite Ball joints
Energy suspension bushings

Honestly, i think my ball joints were good. The boots were still decent but they had pinholes in them so any extra grease was pushed out. Just made for a good mess. So i've never pressed ball joints before but for future reference, on these LCAs, I won't ever think that I could actually do it with a rent-a-tool device. I ended up cussing and then paying someone to press out/in new ball joints. I took the LCAs off the pickup, first, and then set them up on a bench. The issue I had is that the topside of the LCA is not flat around the ball joint so your standard sleeve doesnt sit flat to apply pressure evenly. I ended up dimpling the sleeve I used. I had an impact wrench ($10 from a garage sale) but it was limited to probably 250ftlbs at best. I believe this saved me from breaking the press tool. I was pissed and would have kept going, broke the tool, then relocated random pieces of said tool, roughly, a stone's throw away>:). I tried using heat and Kroil, tapping (ok, beating) it with a hammer all while under pressure from the tool. No dice.
Save the time and just pay someone to do it.

The bushings, however, were no trouble just a little time consuming. The outside ring on them looked to be wearing but, honestly, after pressing them out they looked like i could have kept going. The inside rubber was still supple considering 124k miles and nearly 13yo. They weren't dried out. I used Energy Suspension bushings and am curious if I am going to regret not using rubber. Some on here have mentioned using using poly bushings for body mounts made for a terrible ride and went back to rubber. Yes, body mounts are different but we'll see. Getting the bushings out just required using said press tool from above and applying heat to the housing. Although the larger bushings, i did have to cut some of the rubber on the lip so i could make metal-to-metal contact with the press sleeve (just took some time). They popped out with ease. I had to reheat the larger bushing as it is much larger and I found out after heating that the press tool didnt fit. It cooled down before i started pressing and was very difficult to move. Reheat, apply c-clamp, press, money.
Installing the bushings was straight forward. I didnt follow the instructions. I put the metal sleeves in the poly bushings first then pressed the whole setup in. I imagine pressing the bushing then the sleeve might be easier but you'll be pressing both and have to use a lot of the lube. I was able to hand press the sleeves into the bushings thus not requiring any lube for that part. I only used slightly more than one packet of their grease doing it this way for both lowers (they give you 4 packets in the kit but it is an entire UCA/LCA kit). It did take me and my neighbor to press them in b/c of having to situate them and apply the press tool, just needed the hands. The larger bushing was too long and we barely made an 8" c-clamp work. With them well lubed though, a c-clamp is more than adequate to get'em in. I'd recommend going that route as its much easier than dealing with the press tool and the adapters.

Here's 3 of 4 bushings. Neighbors kid ran off with one. Anyway, they aint too bad. The sharp slicing is where i had to cut them in order to get the press to sit against metal on the LCA. the bushing covered the entire thing initially.
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Power Steering Cooler install part 1

I believe this is the easiest mod/change I've done and will do. I was able to do this without removing anything but the top plastic cover under the hood. I did not remove my grill. Installing the cooler just required removing the 10mm bolt on the top and then getting another bolt to secure the other arm of the cooler in front of the radiator stack. There are threads in the factory hole, at least on mine, that this goes into. Its the angled support that goes up to the hood latch. Mine fit a 6mmx30mm stainless steel bolt just fine. Nut/lock washer is not necessary unless you're the belt AND suspender types.. i used a nut/lock washer.

Tieing it in does require cutting a line. I found it easiest to remove the whole line to perform the dremel cut. To do that, just take off the clamp on the pump and then unscrew the connections on the gear box. the video wolfn8ter posted made it easy to knock this out.

NOTE: At this point i have not installed the gear box yet since pulling it to R&R the pitman arm so mines not plumbed in yet (hence the part 1). Also, I did have to hand bend the outlets of the cooler just a bit so they wouldn't touch the side of the inter cooler. Wasnt too difficult but it was necessary IMO.
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Lower Steering Bearing replacement Part 1 of the some-beach series

For those that have the LMM this sucks. BTW, I'm thoroughly convinced that the steering bearing is the source of my clunking. It has a lot of play in it. The ISS and Lower Shaft are solid.

This is an easy task for the LBZ and earlier. Not for us LMM'rs. In GM's infinite wisdom they put a shroud over the steering shaft just before the upper ISS connection. Good call GM. Its fastened with three near impossible-to-get-to T25 screws. This makes it impossible to install a new bearing without modifying the stock situation (read: taking sh*t apart). I spent about 30-45 min searching for how-tos on this and only found this workaround over at DP. Well, i'm not the bandaid type.

I believe i can drop the steering column to get to this shroud but i'm not sure the trouble i might get into if i EFF something up in the process. However, to fix this correctly, i cannot see any other way. Currently i have the four column bolts loosened so it drops a little. I believe they are maxed out. Anymore and it will come down. I still do not have room to get a 1/4 wratchet with a T25 socket up there. I'm not sure if getting some torx allen-type wrenches would work. It wouldnt be fun if it does.
The other thought is to drill four holes in the shroud, in a square pattern, and then cut in between them. This moves the shroud out of the way to install the bearing but gives me a place to mount the bracket back with a scrap piece of metal and some whatever bolts. The reason for putting it back: it has a wire assembly at the end that holds the shift cable. I'm not sure if its needed but its there nonetheless. The only issue i have with this is all the metal fines in the vehicle.

Either way, the bearing needs to be replaced. Any suggestions/thoughts are greatly appreciated!

FYI - if anyone has any other warnings/tips/watch-outs other than the clockspring/SIR... please advise. After typing the dremel idea i'm more convinced to go that route but i don't like the idea of shavings going everywhere in the vehicle.

Update(4.13.19 0749hrs): if you go to 11 second in on the video below you will see the shroud on the far right with the wire attached to it. That rusted piece (mine's not rusted, no clue whats up with his) is what has to be removed or modified in order to get the Lower Steering Bearing removed and replaced on my pickup.
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Fuel hose - bio-d compatible

So my feed line that most complain about (as part of P0087) and end up replacing is very easy to access since i have some stuff outta the engine compartment and its even kinked a bit. I'm not throwing codes but since i have easy access I'm thinking to R&R.

However, what i've seen recommended is Park 601-8 fuel hose. The past 40 mins i have spent searching and calling local distributors and even Parker themselves (noone answered) has yielded no information as to whether that hose is bio compatible. It was mentioned in the above thread but parkers website does not mention it being bio-compatible.

Anyone confirm if Parker Hose 601-8 is bio-d compatible?

I've also found this stuff. Although the temp rating is 400F. Is that sufficient temp rating for being under hood?

I did find Parker 397XX CARB Fuel Line as being B100 Compatible, following SAE J30R7, but the temp rating is only to 257F.

Also found Eaton GH100 hose but temp rating is still pretty low IMO.
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Lower Steering Bearing replacement part 2 of the some-beach series

Well, we're not done yet.

I decided i'm not going to do the workaround that is mentioned over at Dieselplace. Therefore, the steering column came out. Well, kinda. I'll post a pic later but I couldnt figure out how to get all the daggum connectors unplugged from underneath the steering wheel so my column is sitting half under the dash and half on the driver seat.
This is the only way i could get to the three T25 screws holding the shroud I mentioned and showed a video of in Part 1 of this series. Doing it this way only required unplugging three things: a big connector, small connector and the shift linkage. Again, I'll post photos since there hasnt been a writeup on this that i've found. UPDATE (4/23/19): I found this thread on here that shows a few better pictures than I do. Its a good reference as well.

Here's the mess i created.. (tilt your head. i dont know how to get'em vertical. They're fine on my computer) UPDATE: Fixed them!!!
Steering wheel column pulled out just a bit all connectors under wheel are still connected

The infinite wisdom of GMs engineering... the shroud

And the location of said shroud. Notice how the two ears/flat parts. That bolts up flat making it impossible to get to the three T25 screws without essentially doing what i did.

First of all, for my 2007 LMM the Dorman 905-512 is NOT the correct part.
I'm going by a dealership today on way home to take a look at part# 15775851 (i'll post an update if this is truly the correct part. i brought the old one with me to trust but verify b/c getting the wrong part is frustrating, not finding out its the wrong one until I'm ready to install flat out pisses me off).
They want $38.02+tax. Its $23.40 at gmpartsdirect but you have to pay shipping and you have to wait for the part. I'm wanting this part to be done so, if it's correct, I'll pony up.

more to come...

UPDATE: the part number above is the correct part. Here are some pics of the new and my old part. I'd apologize for the sideways photos but I dont do photo crap on the computer. They were vertical when i saved'em on my computer.

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Lower steering bearing replacement part 3 (complete)

Wrapped up the steering bearing last night. For those having the clunking noise, clanking noise you might want to look into this. See part 2 of this series (post #14) about the correct part to order. Also the bearing is cheaper than the ISS so you might want to investigate it before the ISS. I dont believe anything is actually wrong with my ISS after having installed the new bearing but i ordered one before coming to that conclusion. The shaft in the column is so much tighter and this ended up being not that bad of a chore to knock out. I ended up taking things apart i shouldn't have (accelerator pedal, etc) but here are the steps If i had to do it again:

NOTE: dont let the steering wheel turn too much. How much is too much? no friggin clue. People say the clock spring can be damaged but given my wheel articulates more than 360 degrees when i'm driving i assume an 1/8-1/4 turn when its disconnected is likely not going to hurt. I didnt let mine spin more than an 1/8 of a turn but, at this point, I havent been able to test to see if its damaged. Nothing popped/cracked and the airbag didnt deploy

0) disconnect battery. You're going to be all up in your steering wheels chili and you want to avoid at all costs converting your airbags potential energy into kinetic.:wink2:

1) Disconnect ISS from steering column. 15mm nut on a 13mm head bolt

2) Remove the panel just below the steering column. two phillips screws and one 10mm bolt holding the parking break release and a connector for the trailer brake and remove the hoop (4 -10mm(?) nuts).

3) remove the steering bearing noting its position (i believe the goofy part of it is at the 5oclock position). It'll be easier to remove it here than once the column is not secured.

4) unplug the large connector left of the column. It has a blue lever you have to hinge back. There are two clips on either side you have to squeeze in order for the blue level to move.

5) Unplug the small connector on the right side of the column that is connected to the shift linkage

6) disconnect the shift linkage from the steering column. It just pops off, nothing special.

7) remove the metal clip from the shift linkage and unclip the shift linkage where it is secured to the column.

8) move the shift linkage out of the way (towards passenger side)
NOTE: this is the part where it is very helpful to have a second person helping you

9) unscrew the four 15mm nuts. Keep track of the washers. On mine there were two washers between the column and the mount on the two posts closest to the firewall. I didnt keep track of where they went i.e. which went to which side but i mic'd mine and they were nearly identical <.002" difference in thickness but same diameter

10) drop the column and pull it forward laying the steering wheel and shroud part on the driver seat leaving the column shaft resting on the structural part of the dash. Make sure your shift linkage doesnt get bound up/pinched/damage as the column wants to rotate towards it and i'm not sure how much it can handle before damage occurs.

11) remove 3 T25 screws so the ingenious shroud can be removed, remove shroud

12) Install the new bearing. If your forgot how it is positioned, near the big neck part of the bearing, there are two parallel plastic ridges (idk what else to call them), these ridges are straight in line with one of the snaps that holds it in place. The snap in line with those two... goes in the 12oclock position.

13) put everything back together
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I am starting the same build out ...mayber not in the same order....following

Great thread KR! This is going to be helpful to a lot of folks out there.

Keep up the good work!
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