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509 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a modest build, if it can be called a build, and will likely bore most. Well, too bad. I'm shooting for longevity not power. Its not a DD so I plan to own this vehicle a long time (>15 years). I'm at 4.5 years w/ 124k miles. I'm the second owner.

She's up on stands with completely empty wheel wells at the moment but here's whats going down (yes, everything is being done at once. Its not a daily and I'm fortunate to have space to leave'r be when i'm not working):

Control Arms
Kryptonite UCAs
Stock LCA w/ Energy Suspension bushings and Kryptonite ball joints
New Bump stops - old ones were non-existent
Energy Suspension sway bar bushings and end links

Kryptonite XD hubs

Steering stuff
Dmaxstore HD super stupid big tierods
Dmaxstore XD Pitman, Idler, and Idler support (the last being really nice since it came with a hose to finally relocate that hard-to-reach zerk)
Kryptonite PISK
I kept the stock centerlink and gear box. Although i'll probably check the gearbox before i re-install it.
LMM ISS bearing. Its not the same part as the LBZ/earlier models. See the some-beach series on the steering.
ISS (hopefully these two will remove my clunking noise. Thanks to mijdirtyjeep for the help)
P/S Cooler (thanks hook for the idea and write-up)

Bilstein 5100 on the corners
Rancho RS7000MT in the middle
Sulastic shackles with 1.5" drop shackles
Dorman 905-509 torsion bar mounts

Deleted (thanks Timmay208 and D/AChris for the awesome write-ups)
Gates 18777 Molded Heater Hose - coolant reroute
DE K4113A exhaust
Maxflow up-pipes wrapped in PTP Lava Exhaust Wrap
LML port-side manifold (thanks DRC, i decided not to empty my wallet... at least not in this area)
LML Heat shield I tried pounding the old one. Needless to say how that worked out...
HSP Max Flow y-bridge w/ Cold side tube
Dmaxstore PCV reroute
PPE T-case brace
Kennedy Single Lift pump deluxe kit (how-tos from hook, neutron, abreeden, and alisobob will all be helpful when I actually get to this)
AFE drop-in Proguard 7 Filter - thanks, again, for the idea DRC
Fuel filter housing spacer and billet bleed screw
PTP Turbo Blanket for Duramax ('04.5-'10)

MotorOps - thanks for the rec, DRC.
5 tunes w/ DSP

Ground Contact
BFG KO2s (update: they now have a 50k mile warrantied tire: Its the KO2 DT)
285/70-17 on stockers (thanks tyreboyz for the tire info)

Live 411
Edge Insight CTS2
EGT probe (not installed yet)

estimated time of completion: Late-April/Early-May (this year, of course).
Pics? maybe. Not doing anything flashy so the pics would be pretty vanilla (especially since my truck is white)
I do plan on, when i get time, posting my experiences from having performed this work. Most did this when their vehicles were younger. Mine is middle-aged so hopefully those getting their first LMM or modifying it for the first time can use this as a 'what to expect' POV.

10,413 Posts
Sub a dub dub.

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Lower Control arms - Ball joint and bushing replacement

Reused Arms
Kryptonite Ball joints
Energy suspension bushings

Honestly, i think my ball joints were good. The boots were still decent but they had pinholes in them so any extra grease was pushed out. Just made for a good mess. So i've never pressed ball joints before but for future reference, on these LCAs, I won't ever think that I could actually do it with a rent-a-tool device. I ended up cussing and then paying someone to press out/in new ball joints. I took the LCAs off the pickup, first, and then set them up on a bench. The issue I had is that the topside of the LCA is not flat around the ball joint so your standard sleeve doesnt sit flat to apply pressure evenly. I ended up dimpling the sleeve I used. I had an impact wrench ($10 from a garage sale) but it was limited to probably 250ftlbs at best. I believe this saved me from breaking the press tool. I was pissed and would have kept going, broke the tool, then relocated random pieces of said tool, roughly, a stone's throw away>:). I tried using heat and Kroil, tapping (ok, beating) it with a hammer all while under pressure from the tool. No dice.
Save the time and just pay someone to do it.

The bushings, however, were no trouble just a little time consuming. The outside ring on them looked to be wearing but, honestly, after pressing them out they looked like i could have kept going. The inside rubber was still supple considering 124k miles and nearly 13yo. They weren't dried out. I used Energy Suspension bushings and am curious if I am going to regret not using rubber. Some on here have mentioned using using poly bushings for body mounts made for a terrible ride and went back to rubber. Yes, body mounts are different but we'll see. Getting the bushings out just required using said press tool from above and applying heat to the housing. Although the larger bushings, i did have to cut some of the rubber on the lip so i could make metal-to-metal contact with the press sleeve (just took some time). They popped out with ease. I had to reheat the larger bushing as it is much larger and I found out after heating that the press tool didnt fit. It cooled down before i started pressing and was very difficult to move. Reheat, apply c-clamp, press, money.
Installing the bushings was straight forward. I didnt follow the instructions. I put the metal sleeves in the poly bushings first then pressed the whole setup in. I imagine pressing the bushing then the sleeve might be easier but you'll be pressing both and have to use a lot of the lube. I was able to hand press the sleeves into the bushings thus not requiring any lube for that part. I only used slightly more than one packet of their grease doing it this way for both lowers (they give you 4 packets in the kit but it is an entire UCA/LCA kit). It did take me and my neighbor to press them in b/c of having to situate them and apply the press tool, just needed the hands. The larger bushing was too long and we barely made an 8" c-clamp work. With them well lubed though, a c-clamp is more than adequate to get'em in. I'd recommend going that route as its much easier than dealing with the press tool and the adapters.

Here's 3 of 4 bushings. Neighbors kid ran off with one. Anyway, they aint too bad. The sharp slicing is where i had to cut them in order to get the press to sit against metal on the LCA. the bushing covered the entire thing initially.

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Stock exhaust removal @ 124k miles

Finally got around to finishing the exhaust. It had some rust on it so I reckon that can't be good. Better remove it before it contaminates the rest of the truck.:wink2:
For starters, I soaked the v-band on the DP with kroil. I'd seen some talk about struggling with it and it being stuck. I didnt have this problem and the clamp cleaned up real nice. What i did notice is that there is some tension already on the DP and front pipe. taking the v-band off showed some recoil i was not expecting. Nothing crazy but it didnt line up on its own.

Next came the bolts at the flanges. I kroiled all of them. The cat/dpf was fairly easy. They all loosened up with some decent wrenching. 18" breaker was helpful. The DPF/Muffler flange was impossible. I hit it multiple times with kroil and still sheared two of the three bolts. Not surprising given its past the dpf which gets hella hot, pun intended. Just like others on here have mentioned, i left all sensors plugged into the DPF. Simply separated the part where the two lines are supported by the pipe itself and then took the single 13mm nut off the hanger where the black box plugs in just under the bed. All one piece.

I was hoping people were just lazy when they were talking about not being able to get the muffler/tip out without cutting it. They weren't. I played 20# tetris for about 15 min and then came to my senses (aka sawzall).

Half tempted to weigh the old exhaust just to see what the weight loss is compared to the new exhaust. Yes, it will be negligible but sometimes you just wanna know... ya know?

322 Posts

Premium Member
1,749 Posts

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Power Steering Cooler install part 1

I believe this is the easiest mod/change I've done and will do. I was able to do this without removing anything but the top plastic cover under the hood. I did not remove my grill. Installing the cooler just required removing the 10mm bolt on the top and then getting another bolt to secure the other arm of the cooler in front of the radiator stack. There are threads in the factory hole, at least on mine, that this goes into. Its the angled support that goes up to the hood latch. Mine fit a 6mmx30mm stainless steel bolt just fine. Nut/lock washer is not necessary unless you're the belt AND suspender types.. i used a nut/lock washer.

Tieing it in does require cutting a line. I found it easiest to remove the whole line to perform the dremel cut. To do that, just take off the clamp on the pump and then unscrew the connections on the gear box. the video wolfn8ter posted made it easy to knock this out.

NOTE: At this point i have not installed the gear box yet since pulling it to R&R the pitman arm so mines not plumbed in yet (hence the part 1). Also, I did have to hand bend the outlets of the cooler just a bit so they wouldn't touch the side of the inter cooler. Wasnt too difficult but it was necessary IMO.

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Lower Steering Bearing replacement Part 1 of the some-beach series

For those that have the LMM this sucks. BTW, I'm thoroughly convinced that the steering bearing is the source of my clunking. It has a lot of play in it. The ISS and Lower Shaft are solid.

This is an easy task for the LBZ and earlier. Not for us LMM'rs. In GM's infinite wisdom they put a shroud over the steering shaft just before the upper ISS connection. Good call GM. Its fastened with three near impossible-to-get-to T25 screws. This makes it impossible to install a new bearing without modifying the stock situation (read: taking sh*t apart). I spent about 30-45 min searching for how-tos on this and only found this workaround over at DP. Well, i'm not the bandaid type.

I believe i can drop the steering column to get to this shroud but i'm not sure the trouble i might get into if i EFF something up in the process. However, to fix this correctly, i cannot see any other way. Currently i have the four column bolts loosened so it drops a little. I believe they are maxed out. Anymore and it will come down. I still do not have room to get a 1/4 wratchet with a T25 socket up there. I'm not sure if getting some torx allen-type wrenches would work. It wouldnt be fun if it does.
The other thought is to drill four holes in the shroud, in a square pattern, and then cut in between them. This moves the shroud out of the way to install the bearing but gives me a place to mount the bracket back with a scrap piece of metal and some whatever bolts. The reason for putting it back: it has a wire assembly at the end that holds the shift cable. I'm not sure if its needed but its there nonetheless. The only issue i have with this is all the metal fines in the vehicle.

Either way, the bearing needs to be replaced. Any suggestions/thoughts are greatly appreciated!

FYI - if anyone has any other warnings/tips/watch-outs other than the clockspring/SIR... please advise. After typing the dremel idea i'm more convinced to go that route but i don't like the idea of shavings going everywhere in the vehicle.

Update(4.13.19 0749hrs): if you go to 11 second in on the video below you will see the shroud on the far right with the wire attached to it. That rusted piece (mine's not rusted, no clue whats up with his) is what has to be removed or modified in order to get the Lower Steering Bearing removed and replaced on my pickup.

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
EGR delete - this is why

124k miles. The pictures, honestly, do not do it justice. Where it connects to the y-bridge, its getting close to 1/2" thick.
I'm still working on the EGR cooler. More to come...


509 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Removing old exhaust parts

Alright, I finally finished removing the EGR cooler, Turbo heat shield, Down pipe heat shield, down pipe and the driver's side up pipe heat shield.

The how-to's I mentioned in my OP helped with the cooler removal. First thing, if you haven't performed the PCV reroute, you will want to as the stocker is completely in the way. I did the reroute at this time for except i just put the billet plugs in with paper towel wads in them. No sense having the hose in my way at this point. To remove the cooler follow all of the how-tos i linked in my OP but here are some additional things you will want to know:
1) noone i saw talks about how to get to the 12mm nuts that hold the up pipe to the cooler. one is easy to get to topside. I believe it was the port-side nut. Starboard side nut was a beast. NOTE: whoever said to get wratcheting wrenchs, thank you. I used that as an excuse to buy this set of wratcheting wrenchs for $50 and they have worked out great so far. I digress. The starboard side nut, i positioned the 12mm wratcheting wrench from topside but then used a piece of pipe (1" id) from the wheel well to push on the open end of the wrench upwards. I couldnt see doing it any other way. I couldnt get my hand on the wrench and still have enough umph to break the nut. Keep in mind that there is a line above your wrench if you tackle it like i did.
2) you also have to disconnect the EGR valve/motor (at this point IDC what its called). Its two bolts, one simple and one PITA. The bottom one is the fun one. Knock it out first. Once you get that egr motor thing out of there I'd recommend plugging the cooler outlets unless you like coolant everywhere. I'm telling you this because i found out that i like coolant every where (read: I did not know at the time to plug the outlets). Needless to say, I had an 'experience'.

Next was the turbo heat shield. This was actually fairly easy for me once I used a pair of vise grips. I only made one snip and it came out. When its on and you are looking at it, on the right, in front there is a structural piece that has one spot weld on the front. I snipped just above that spot weld. This then allowed me to bend the entire right/driver's side of the heat shield up enough, using vise grips for leverage, to then get it where i could remove it from the passenger side, pulling it out where the EGR cooler used to be. Yes you have to remove the glow plug controller and mount. To get to the third bolt on the mount, egress the line that is blocking you from the holder that is just in front of the mount. This will allow enough movement to get a socket down in there. (putting it back might be fun)

I havent decided if i'm going to put the heat shield back in yet. If i do, i'll probably modify it. We'll see.

On to the down pipe heat shield. Getting to the three bolts was interesting. I did two of them from the wheel well and one from top side. Although i think two could be done top side. I read somewhere that heat shield comes out the top and down pipe comes out the bottom. That is how i did it an it worked for me. But, you have to break the downpipe free before the heatshield will budge.

To break the down pipe free, I soaked the DP/Turbo band clamp with kano kroil. This is what i use to apply the kroil. I let it sit for about 30 min-1 hour and it broke free by hand. Then i broke the down pipe free by just wiggling it from the passenger wheel well. I had already removed the DP/exhaust clamp and removed the exhaust so i didnt have anything in the way. Once the down pipe is free from the turbo you can then just start wiggling everything to get the heat shield to come out topside. There is a coolant line but the part with the foil on it is a hose and it will move. I flexed it out of the way and out came the heat shield. The DP proved to be more trouble. Besides already having to unbolt the trans dipstick i tried removing the dipstick. This proved to be a quick way to get trans fluid into a pan STAT. So, dipstick did not get removed (that and i couldnt figure out how to anyway?). The key to getting the DP is to pull it over the frame, not between the trans and the frame. You just have to wiggle it until it comes free. I did not have to man-handle mine to get it to come out. Just had to find the sweet spot. For those that beat theirs up with a hammer to get it out, how the heck did you get a hammer in there TO beat it? no clue.

The driver's side heat shield (the only up pipe with a heat shield) was a piece of work. Seriously. I started thinking i was going to have to remove the coolant line but figured out that by making two small snips right above the bottom bolt hole on the shield that you could bend that back enough to then get it to clear the coolant line and then get the shield to come out topside where the EGR cooler used to be. Again, I learned this myself as i couldnt find any one actually talking about these details.

I'll take and post pics of the snips on the heat shields later. I started soaking the up pipe bolts with the kroil and will soak'em again tomorrow. Not sure what I'll work on tomorrow. Probably high time I take the centerlink apart and put back together with my stupid big DMAX store tierods.

update: here's how i snipped the turbo heat shield

Also, I think i'm going to go the blanket route instead of putting the stock shield back on. For those not knowing the different T# sizes, here is a sizing chart I found (believe it was off PTPs website).

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Removing Up Pipes

Well, i started soaking the up-pipe bolts in Kroil on sunday and put a coat on yesterday and today. I pulled the manifold-up pipe bolts yesterday with no issue but they were easier to get kroil on them.
It was either start working on the Lower steering bearing (read: pull the column) or try to get the turbo-up pipe bolts free. I'm putting off the steering column thing. That's just a bad deal.

Anyway, I was able to access all 6 bolts from the passenger wheel well. Mind you, i have it down to the frame so my conditions for working are near optimal. All of them took a good amount of torque to get free but i was able to get every single one of them out with no issues. Not sure if i can thank the Kroil or not but i didnt break a bolt off in the pedestal and i used kroil. Just sayin'

The driver side bottom bolt was a pain. My HF job of a breaker bar had too much play and the 1/2" wratchet wouldnt fit. Ended up borrowing a neighbors 12pt 12mm 3/8" socket and used a cheater on the wratchet. Having the pass side up pipe out made for accessing the driver side so much easier.

Now i just have to figure out how to get the driver side up pipe out. Looks like i'll have to remove the coolant line unless i can get something on the tab that held the heat shield. More to come...

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Fuel hose - bio-d compatible

So my feed line that most complain about (as part of P0087) and end up replacing is very easy to access since i have some stuff outta the engine compartment and its even kinked a bit. I'm not throwing codes but since i have easy access I'm thinking to R&R.

However, what i've seen recommended is Park 601-8 fuel hose. The past 40 mins i have spent searching and calling local distributors and even Parker themselves (noone answered) has yielded no information as to whether that hose is bio compatible. It was mentioned in the above thread but parkers website does not mention it being bio-compatible.

Anyone confirm if Parker Hose 601-8 is bio-d compatible?

I've also found this stuff. Although the temp rating is 400F. Is that sufficient temp rating for being under hood?

I did find Parker 397XX CARB Fuel Line as being B100 Compatible, following SAE J30R7, but the temp rating is only to 257F.

Also found Eaton GH100 hose but temp rating is still pretty low IMO.

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Installing Up-pipes, down pipes and driver side manifold

For those that haven't installed up pipes or a down pipe i have a couple tips for making the install take roughly 1-2 hours. I know b/c i spent 8 hours confirming. :frown2:

Reverse the removal for the install (driver up, passenger up, then downpipe). One should come to that logical conclusion but.. yea
Make sure the gaskets are in the right position. Ups-to-Turbo should have the big tab of the gasket in the middle between the two up pipe holes. Otherwise, and i'm just speculating, you might spend 30 min trying to get the bottom bolt on the driver side up pipe to thread to no avail.
Use the Harbor freight method of bolting it: Bolt it all up loose, THEN tighten.

I installed the Maxflow up-pipes with the ARP bolt kit from Dmaxstore. Before installing i wrapped the up pipes with PTPs lava heat wrap: 1"x50 for $32. 50' was enough to completely wrap both up-pipes. I had enough leftover that i wrapped the top part of the MBRP downpipe and wrap the passenger side manifold (since it doesnt sit flat like the driver side). Here's the wrapped downpipes. Took this before I installed the metal ties.

I also installed the MBRP downpipe. It was actually pretty easy to get in. Having the trans tube loose made it possible. The only drawback is that the trans tube is actually touching the down pipe. Granted, there is heat wrap on it but not sure what issues that might cause, hopefully none'dunno; Aint much i can do without putting on some more nuts to space the tube further back to the firewall but i'm not so sure that would put any space between them.

Here's the final install pic. I was missing the DP support bracket bolt. Somehow I lost it. FYI its a M10x1.25 25-30mm length. I used 30mm with a washer and it snugged up just fine.

Yes, those black bolts are ARP bolts. I decided to run all ARPs since they're higher tensile strength. Overkill considering they're only torqued to 42ftlbs, i know, but i'd rather 'waste' money on that types stuff than on an intake or rims. Ordered them off Jegs.
For those wanting to run all ARP bolts on your LMM exhaust manifolds you will need the following:
10x - M10x1.5 60mm bolts (Part 662-1008 provides 5 bolts and washers)
1x - M10x1.5 35mm bolts (Part 662-1004 provides 5 bolts and washers, yes 4 extra; this is the short bolt on the driver side)
4x - 3/8"-16 hex nuts (Part 200-8654 provides 5 hex nuts) **waiting for these to come in as you can tell by the photo
1x - M10x1.5 100mm bolt (Part 662-1012 provides 5 bolts and washers, yes 4 extra; this is the long bolt on pass side)

I couldnt find any single bolt packages for the odd duck bolt on either side.

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Lower Steering Bearing replacement part 2 of the some-beach series

Well, we're not done yet.

I decided i'm not going to do the workaround that is mentioned over at Dieselplace. Therefore, the steering column came out. Well, kinda. I'll post a pic later but I couldnt figure out how to get all the daggum connectors unplugged from underneath the steering wheel so my column is sitting half under the dash and half on the driver seat.
This is the only way i could get to the three T25 screws holding the shroud I mentioned and showed a video of in Part 1 of this series. Doing it this way only required unplugging three things: a big connector, small connector and the shift linkage. Again, I'll post photos since there hasnt been a writeup on this that i've found. UPDATE (4/23/19): I found this thread on here that shows a few better pictures than I do. Its a good reference as well.

Here's the mess i created.. (tilt your head. i dont know how to get'em vertical. They're fine on my computer) UPDATE: Fixed them!!!
Steering wheel column pulled out just a bit all connectors under wheel are still connected

The infinite wisdom of GMs engineering... the shroud

And the location of said shroud. Notice how the two ears/flat parts. That bolts up flat making it impossible to get to the three T25 screws without essentially doing what i did.

First of all, for my 2007 LMM the Dorman 905-512 is NOT the correct part.
I'm going by a dealership today on way home to take a look at part# 15775851 (i'll post an update if this is truly the correct part. i brought the old one with me to trust but verify b/c getting the wrong part is frustrating, not finding out its the wrong one until I'm ready to install flat out pisses me off).
They want $38.02+tax. Its $23.40 at gmpartsdirect but you have to pay shipping and you have to wait for the part. I'm wanting this part to be done so, if it's correct, I'll pony up.

more to come...

UPDATE: the part number above is the correct part. Here are some pics of the new and my old part. I'd apologize for the sideways photos but I dont do photo crap on the computer. They were vertical when i saved'em on my computer.


509 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Just got an email from the Dmaxstore. My HSP y-bridge/cold pipe will arrive Thursday. Placed the order on April 7th so it will have taken 2.5 weeks to arrive, granted it is a built-to-order item. I ordered raw and plan to give it a coat of high temp black paint before installing.

Game plan for this week
Tues: Put tierods on centerlink; install steering bearing/button column back up; install upper and lower steering shafts
Wed: Finish tuesday work; prep for new y-bridge; install coolant reroute
Thurs: install new y-bridge; paint cold side tube
Fri: take the wife out
Sat/Sun: Reassemble the entire intake, new coolant, new thermostats, install exhaust, install tunes and dsp5 and see if she'll run. Once running with no issues:
install control arms, front shocks, hubs, cv axles, torsion bars, sway bar, centerlink, and the 285 KO2s
Then, install rear shocks, sulastic shackles and drop shackles.
Finally, adjust torsion bars to level.

Should be complete by mid-next week. I'm planning to pull a loaded trailer the following weekend so it's gonna have to be complete!

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Lower steering bearing replacement part 3 (complete)

Wrapped up the steering bearing last night. For those having the clunking noise, clanking noise you might want to look into this. See part 2 of this series (post #14) about the correct part to order. Also the bearing is cheaper than the ISS so you might want to investigate it before the ISS. I dont believe anything is actually wrong with my ISS after having installed the new bearing but i ordered one before coming to that conclusion. The shaft in the column is so much tighter and this ended up being not that bad of a chore to knock out. I ended up taking things apart i shouldn't have (accelerator pedal, etc) but here are the steps If i had to do it again:

NOTE: dont let the steering wheel turn too much. How much is too much? no friggin clue. People say the clock spring can be damaged but given my wheel articulates more than 360 degrees when i'm driving i assume an 1/8-1/4 turn when its disconnected is likely not going to hurt. I didnt let mine spin more than an 1/8 of a turn but, at this point, I havent been able to test to see if its damaged. Nothing popped/cracked and the airbag didnt deploy

0) disconnect battery. You're going to be all up in your steering wheels chili and you want to avoid at all costs converting your airbags potential energy into kinetic.:wink2:

1) Disconnect ISS from steering column. 15mm nut on a 13mm head bolt

2) Remove the panel just below the steering column. two phillips screws and one 10mm bolt holding the parking break release and a connector for the trailer brake and remove the hoop (4 -10mm(?) nuts).

3) remove the steering bearing noting its position (i believe the goofy part of it is at the 5oclock position). It'll be easier to remove it here than once the column is not secured.

4) unplug the large connector left of the column. It has a blue lever you have to hinge back. There are two clips on either side you have to squeeze in order for the blue level to move.

5) Unplug the small connector on the right side of the column that is connected to the shift linkage

6) disconnect the shift linkage from the steering column. It just pops off, nothing special.

7) remove the metal clip from the shift linkage and unclip the shift linkage where it is secured to the column.

8) move the shift linkage out of the way (towards passenger side)
NOTE: this is the part where it is very helpful to have a second person helping you

9) unscrew the four 15mm nuts. Keep track of the washers. On mine there were two washers between the column and the mount on the two posts closest to the firewall. I didnt keep track of where they went i.e. which went to which side but i mic'd mine and they were nearly identical <.002" difference in thickness but same diameter

10) drop the column and pull it forward laying the steering wheel and shroud part on the driver seat leaving the column shaft resting on the structural part of the dash. Make sure your shift linkage doesnt get bound up/pinched/damage as the column wants to rotate towards it and i'm not sure how much it can handle before damage occurs.

11) remove 3 T25 screws so the ingenious shroud can be removed, remove shroud

12) Install the new bearing. If your forgot how it is positioned, near the big neck part of the bearing, there are two parallel plastic ridges (idk what else to call them), these ridges are straight in line with one of the snaps that holds it in place. The snap in line with those two... goes in the 12oclock position.

13) put everything back together

Premium Member
1,749 Posts

Great thread KR! This is going to be helpful to a lot of folks out there.

Keep up the good work!

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Y-bridge removal

If you're going to do this you need to check out
. I'm not sure you could provide a more in depth video. However, I will advise i approached it differently but am still working on it.

A few tips from this process so far.
- do the zip tie thing that he does. It helps out a lot.
- I wiggled the up pipe on the y-bridge out before attempting to remove bolts. Its nice having it out of the way. It took a few minute and some motivation with a flathead but it came out. It looks like it wont when it first frees up but pull it back like a lever while lifting up. It'll come out. If you try to push it towards the turbo you'll hit something and, well, that didnt work for me.
- I did not remove my alternator as TM does in his video. It has not proven to be in the way nor an inconvenience.
- I unscrewed the line that tees off the steel radiator line that goes back towards the turbo. For the life of me i could not get that stock clip to go back far enough to pull the rubber line. I used a pair of vise grips to hold the clip as i unscrewed the connection from the steel coolant line. Doing this allowed me to disconnect the entire steel line/rubber hose assembly at the radiator and completely remove the tstat housing, steel line, and upper coolant hose.
- You do NOT need to unscrew the single bolt holding the steel coolant line to the tstat housing. This keeps you from disturbing the seal between the two and its not necessary to get it out.
- So far i have only disconnected two fuel lines. They were a bit tricky since theyve never been touched. A small flat head underneath them loosened them up. I do not think i'll need to disconnect any more but with a one-piece design I may need to. Note: its obvious which ones you need to
- The driver side rear bottom bolt was fairly easy to get to. I had to use 1/4" to get my sockets to fit but they're 10mm so no prob. Two extensions with wobble heads made that one almost as easy as the front. TM was right when he said having a magnet is a near must.
- the pass side rear bottom was a bit more challenging. I still used the same setup but with more extenstions and i used a 3" nearest the socket to give more articulation near the bolt. To get to this i went above the two metal lines on the driver side but below the rubber line just above them. Perfect angle. THEN i used a flat head to pry on the metal line on the front pass side of the turbo and pryed it towards the cab. It took me a while but i found that if you'll pry as far down the line as you can get it'll move just enough to wiggle a socket on there. This was not easy and took time. Get the socket over the bolt first then start prying decently hard to get it over the head/nut while spinning the socket. FWIW i'm leaving the daggum socket/extension setup there. I'll borrow tools but I am not going to fight that on the install. We'll see how that actually works out.

509 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)

so maybe someone smarter than me on here can advise how to get this last bolt out. I must be the only f**king LMM owner with this issue. The top rear pass side bolt cant come out any further due to the turbo.

Anyone know how to get it out without removing the turbo? I dont know what it takes to remove it but i aint got time for it.

i have no clue how to get the photos verticle. theyre saved vertically. its like daggum blinking christmas lights. makes no sense.
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