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I started a thread about 3 months ago where I was asking those who have pulled off their EGR.. what it looked like..

the thread didnt get much traction but there I talked about how dirty my TMAP was.. and again.. its likely that 90% of that soot is EGR related..

so I was asking how often people pulled down the EGR and TMAP to clean them..

that thread got little attention and traction.. I am glad that people are tuning into this.. as I think this is a very weak link in the L5P..


my dealer LOVES to idle my truck.. every time its in for something they find a way to idle it for HOURS...


do an alignment .. 45 to 60 minutes of idle time

coolant low warning AGAIN.. oh.. idle it for half the day ....

I looked at my engine hours...

18k miles... 64 GOD DAMN IDLE HOURS....
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Good points made by all. Didn't expect this to gain so much traction. Happy it will help others!

@duecedriver
You hit it right, although the L5P is miles ahead in mechanical advancement over other generations, this new generation of emissions is a huge hindrance of long term reliability, in my opinion. Limp mode due to this dirty sensor, which is from their setup, to someone who wasn't aware of the simple underlying issue, could cost big money with long term repairs. Now, if only we could find a flush system for the DEF to eliminate the blown sensors in there...

Ref the EGR setup - i would assume a preventative cleaning program could help ? Would it be as simple as pulling it off and a full wipe down with Brakekleen? The soot obviously maintains some type of abrasion due to its composition, but i dont feel that the light "scarring" for lack of a better term caused by a wipe down would be anything detrimental in the big picture, no? Even though the piping may be "clean" there will still be soot recycled through the system. However, maybe it can help from pulling extra buildup through? Or would the buildup help collect and reduce the amount pulled in? Many things to think about

Good idle point. I got my truck used at shy of 13k and i believe 9xx hours. Could be a big reason. I also have not been using my truck as much as I have historically, due to the current worldly state of affairs - on pace for 7k this year . My commute to work on my way in is 20min at 3 miles (welcome to north Jersey) coming home takes maybe 6min. With the temps dropping in to the teens to single digits, i warm up the truck for almost 10 minutes before i move. I dont like to move the truck if the coolant or oil ("temp") is under 100. That being said, if i don't hit high idle, it can add up to 10 min before i move. Thats approx an hour per week with 24 miles alone
 

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Good points made by all. Didn't expect this to gain so much traction. Happy it will help others!

@duecedriver
You hit it right, although the L5P is miles ahead in mechanical advancement over other generations, this new generation of emissions is a huge hindrance of long term reliability, in my opinion. Limp mode due to this dirty sensor, which is from their setup, to someone who wasn't aware of the simple underlying issue, could cost big money with long term repairs. Now, if only we could find a flush system for the DEF to eliminate the blown sensors in there...

Ref the EGR setup - i would assume a preventative cleaning program could help ? Would it be as simple as pulling it off and a full wipe down with Brakekleen? The soot obviously maintains some type of abrasion due to its composition, but i dont feel that the light "scarring" for lack of a better term caused by a wipe down would be anything detrimental in the big picture, no? Even though the piping may be "clean" there will still be soot recycled through the system. However, maybe it can help from pulling extra buildup through? Or would the buildup help collect and reduce the amount pulled in? Many things to think about

Good idle point. I got my truck used at shy of 13k and i believe 9xx hours. Could be a big reason. I also have not been using my truck as much as I have historically, due to the current worldly state of affairs - on pace for 7k this year . My commute to work on my way in is 20min at 3 miles (welcome to north Jersey) coming home takes maybe 6min. With the temps dropping in to the teens to single digits, i warm up the truck for almost 10 minutes before i move. I dont like to move the truck if the coolant or oil ("temp") is under 100. That being said, if i don't hit high idle, it can add up to 10 min before i move. Thats approx an hour per week with 24 miles alone
I dont think that modern diesels really need to be idled to warm like the old days...

unless its REALLY cold and you are using 15wxx oil.. I think its far healthier to get in.. give it 30 seconds while you get your belt on and set the radio.. and drive off slowly using moderate throttle until temps come up...

as for the EGR.... I am thinking of a plugged or highly reduced EGR cooler more than the valve itself..
 

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Well, all emotions aside, my sensor was cleaner than all the others on here with a total of roughly 29k on the truck. I bought the truck in August of 2019 and installed the spacer in August of 2020. I just really thought it would save me from any of the issues with getting a code. There is another thread Bsimster started where we both got hit with a code and limp mode.
The monkey wrench in all this is that we both have Derringers. Could that have done anything? I dunno...

Long story short, it will keep the MAP sensor cleaner, but you still can't ignore the sensor like I thought I could. Sorry to talk out both sides of my mouth, but I'm just being up front so that your expectations will be set lower than mine were...

Thank you for the insight. I do not have the derringer, I may put the banks throttle monster thing on (haven't decided yet). I believe I will install the spacer and still check/clean every 2 oil changes. It will give me something to do... :)
 

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POST MAP CLEAN UPDATE:
So, as above I did the work. Just returned from 33 mile trip... just to burn diesel/REGEN was just happening before cleaning.

good choice for Holy Saturday.. nice alone time to reflect.
  • switch ON, let gauges cycle...good voltage, stable
  • start seemed quicker, fewer cycles before start.
  • let it idle while belting, radio, phone connect shows on DIC. .. gauges synced ok. ... etc about 20 Seconds
  • oil pressure about 110
  • put in drive, let engine load up. Smoother idle..
  • 1/2 mile low speed to highway then 65mph for 5 miles then 55 for 10. Fuel mileage way down. 11MPG. As stated above, truck had started REGEN when I shutdown to clean the MAP.
  • hit interstate and up to 75 MPH for 12 miles.. still low, about 12MPG.
  • at 25-27 miles, the MPG started creeping up.. as I rolled home, last 5 or so was up to 16 and 17 MPG @ 60MPH...

I mention above as the mileage hit during REGEN was far more than expected or experienced in past memory...

While the truck does run different,.. More accurate, smoother throttle response.. not something anyone else would notice, except someone regularly drove and paid attention to that specifically.

SOAPBOX MODE ON
With this buildup we find, I am concerned about chunks being ingested.

i wonder, how might this impact the longevity of the system(s)?

While “saving the planet “... pfft..NOT by limiting, but by otherwise disposing of the “soot”, which I think is typical government double-speak, there is no part of the MATH which includes “wounding of the planet”..???? By the faulty system pollution, rebuild of systems with parts which must be manufactured, delivered, and so many just thrown in the trash. And recycling... how much does dealer recycle and recover $$$ (another hidden profit)

SOAPBOX MODE SUSPEND

I will drive the truck as normal for the next couple tank fulls and try to remember to post info..
 

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POST MAP CLEAN UPDATE:
So, as above I did the work. Just returned from 33 mile trip... just to burn diesel/REGEN was just happening before cleaning.

good choice for Holy Saturday.. nice alone time to reflect.
  • switch ON, let gauges cycle...good voltage, stable
  • start seemed quicker, fewer cycles before start.
  • let it idle while belting, radio, phone connect shows on DIC. .. gauges synced ok. ... etc about 20 Seconds
  • oil pressure about 110
  • put in drive, let engine load up. Smoother idle..
  • 1/2 mile low speed to highway then 65mph for 5 miles then 55 for 10. Fuel mileage way down. 11MPG. As stated above, truck had started REGEN when I shutdown to clean the MAP.
  • hit interstate and up to 75 MPH for 12 miles.. still low, about 12MPG.
  • at 25-27 miles, the MPG started creeping up.. as I rolled home, last 5 or so was up to 16 and 17 MPG @ 60MPH...

I mention above as the mileage hit during REGEN was far more than expected or experienced in past memory...

While the truck does run different,.. More accurate, smoother throttle response.. not something anyone else would notice, except someone regularly drove and paid attention to that specifically.

SOAPBOX MODE ON
With this buildup we find, I am concerned about chunks being ingested.

i wonder, how might this impact the longevity of the system(s)?

While “saving the planet “... pfft..NOT by limiting, but by otherwise disposing of the “soot”, which I think is typical government double-speak, there is no part of the MATH which includes “wounding of the planet”..???? By the faulty system pollution, rebuild of systems with parts which must be manufactured, delivered, and so many just thrown in the trash. And recycling... how much does dealer recycle and recover $$$ (another hidden profit)

SOAPBOX MODE SUSPEND

I will drive the truck as normal for the next couple tank fulls and try to remember to post info..
you disconnect both batts when you did yours?

might need to settle in and rebuild fuel map and DEF dosing data...

plus it did a REGEN.

i just got my truck back from the dealer AGIAN for coolant.. this time low coolant warning but the tank was full so they replaced the tank thinking bad sender..

they either cleared codes.. and there were none.. or disconnected both batts to get at the tank and that cleared the ECM...

but I was at 98% normalized regen when I picked it up... and driving on the highway was expecting it to REGEN when it hit 100% which it normally does.. this time it didnt.. everything was up to temp, at highway speed full tank of gas.. every parameter was met...

pulled over and shut the truck off... started it back up ... and it immediately went into regen.. and it seemed like it took a tad longer as well.. but it was kinda cold and I got stuck on some 45mph sections stuck behind someone going slow so hard for the truck to keep the DPF heat up...

get a couple tanks through her.. I am sure it will drive better...

my REGENS have always taken about 22 minutes I didnt time this one.. might just be in your head...
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
How do you get the hours for these trucks?
Scroll through the info pages on your dash, its one of the views on there. If you dont find it, go to settings/options and you have to select to turn it on - may be turned off
 

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How do you get the hours for these trucks?
engine hours can be pulled up in the DIC... go to settings and turn it on

for idle hours you need a scan tool.. and you can also see if it agrees to body module hours as well if you are buying it used and want to see if its been monkeyed with
 

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Just an FYI I just cleaned the MAP on my 2017 with 95K miles. It was completely caked with carbon and soot. Not just soft stuff but actual hard chunks of carbon. Took a while blasting with maf cleaner and I actually had to use a small pick to pick out a couple hard chunks imbedded inside the sensor. Having done it I will likely now do it every 30K instead of 100K. And I will have the pleasant thought that thanks to the EGR all that soot and carbon is being pushed back through my engine.
 

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howdy Deucedriver..
Agreed on all your points. The system runs very warm when REGEN occurring and has that special odor.

yeah, I think it did REGEN

I did remove both battery negative cables. This stuff works with smoke and mirrors.. once you let the smoke out or break the mirror, you are done. Old, unbreakable habit... machines I worked around could do a Frankenstein RE animation scene on a person.. 480 volts at 600 hz .. and chilled water.. bug zapper...

I spaced out about the remapping.. did some smooth throttle ups.. once temp came off the peg I rolled up to 2000RPM and let it do it’s thing to 65MPH. 5 miles then dropped to 55 on another road having go neutral throttle setting up for tight turns.
 

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It is suggested to disconnect the batteries if you disconnect the sensor from the harness. I've also read enough of the factory service manual to say there is a decent chance a code will be thrown if you leave the batteries connected.
Yes, some guys on here get lucky enough and it doesn't throw a code. Some don't...
You've been warned...
5E34ECB4-8065-4205-90FD-344ADEF5D464.png
 
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I might just go out and give the ol 2010 a hug this morning :)

haha never thought about that deuce good read this morning. "EGR - where the engine sht's in its own mouth" ! I'll use that one for sure.
 

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Awesome! Yes, I see where you can remove the MAP from the manifold without disconnect... lift off then add spacer.

your advice to DISCONNECT the batteries is absolutely on point. When disconnecting ANY wire which may contact an electronic board like a BCM or ECM should have all power removed.
 

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@2019LTZ ,
I believe there is miscommunication going on there. To install the S&B MAP spacer kit, you do not "have to" disconnect the MAP sensor from it's engine harness. It is certainly possible to install the spacer and sensor without disconnecting the sensor.

Yes, there are people on here who have disconnected the MAP without disconnecting the batteries, and have not gotten a code.

It is a matter of timing, if you manage to leave your doors open or closed long enough, and the computer goes to sleep, then you're going to be ok. If the computer is awake, then you're going to get a code. Yes, the computer in our trucks is awake, and on even with no key in the ignition at times.

For the purposes of this particular thread, we're talking about completely removing the sensor from the engine, so you should disconnect your batteries before doing so. At the end of the day, it's a free country, but between the Banks instructions, and my ACDelco factory service manual, battery disconnection is strongly advised.
 

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I finally have time and will be doing mine tonight.

I will be disconnecting the batteries because I will be unplugging the sensor from the truck during the cleaning.
 

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Update.. 50k clean then check at 52222k
1087364
 

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So, I have 135k on my truck. I have no clue if the TMAP has ever been cleaned or replaced because I bought it at 122k miles last year.

I'm thinking it may be in my best interest to just order a new TMAP sensor and install it to get back to square 1 with it instead of going through the effort of cleaning one that has been in the truck for a lot of miles already.
 

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Well, not a bad idea. I have a new spare at the ready. In today's environment though, I would still keep and clean that old TMAP sensor. Never know when the next part shortage will hit.
If you're going on a long road trip, not a bad idea to keep the spare in the truck somewhere...
 
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