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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if I'm in the right spot on the forum but anyways. I'm thinking about finding a used LB7 block to do a mild build. My trans is good for 700 so I want to stay under that. I'm thinking some lbz rods and some new lb7 Mahle pistons so what's all involved with that setup. I know the pistons need to be machined to be shorter but do the lbz rods work with the lb7 crank and do they match up with the lb7 pistons or is there machining involved there too. Not sure if its even worth messing with the heads. Then probably go with an s366 single or maybe an s475 twin over stock setup with 40 over sticks. Not sure if I will need dual cp3's or not either. Is there anything the crank needs. I'm also going to use the stock cam I think. It will be balanced of course. I've never dug into a diesel much other than a couple head gaskets jobs on an 8640 JD and I can put a Windsor with Cleveland heads together in my sleep cause that's what I use in my mud truck. So I don't want to get the "if you need to ask these questions than you shouldn't do the build" comments. I am plenty capable of the job I just need help with the setup that would be best. I know there are lots of questions here and I've been researching this for an hr and I figured it would be easier to ask you guys.


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Studs, gaskets.
Keyed crank and cam
Cut lb7 pistons
IMHO Carrillo rods but lbz's might cut it. Just over building is worth it IMO. Itd suck to bend a rod and have to tear back into it.
S366 or s475 like you said(if you are going to do pulls go with the 366 if not twins IMO)
30 or 40 overs
Stock cp3 with lbz reg and 165gph pum
Stock heads

Should be able to put you at / around 700whp.
 

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I have been looking at doing the same thing. their is alot of choices out there. please keep me posted on what you decide. Have you looked in to the package they offer at ppe.
 

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Oh yeah and theres price differences for injector sizes. 1-30% is one price then after that it jumps up. 30% overs would suit you so id save the $ of going bigger unless you plan on it in the future
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ya I planned on studs of course and I already have the ad2 165 and I know what your saying about the rods biggids but they are so damn spendy haha. And I won't be pulling just a dd and tow a little. Also I've heard the keyed cam and crank stuff but haven't searched it on what it is. But the stock crank should be fine right? Everything else you listed sounds about like what I've researched


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright I've read all kinds of "LBZ Rods" threads and everyone says buy aftermarket. But I really don't want to spend that much because I want to build this motor to drop in my ccsb and then do a real build with carrillo rods and all the goodies with the LB7 that's in it and drop that in a reg cab to take to the strip and for a really nice street truck. So in all seriousness I will not be over 700 hp and I won't be running it at 650 hp all the time (650 is what I want it to make) cause I mean really who drives around on a 650 tune. I just got my tunes from rob and I got the 230 hp tune and I dd on my 120 all the time cause that's plenty so I don't really plan on abusing it but if some little bastard in a ricer wants race I want that 650 (or some cumapart wants to race). This is basically going to be a budget build for my dd. Could use some more input on this idea and if you have an lb7 short block laying around I may be interested.
 

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I personally would go with 60% injectors as you can run lower PW and that means less timing on the motor to help live. Stock crank you will be fine as well as stock cam but like stated key both. If its just a DD and street/tow rig I would go with twins that would also help prolong the life of the motor. Good tuning goes a long ways and 600 is more power then you think. As for rods that is a toss up some have made real good power off of stock bottom end LBZ rods and stock LB7 pistons. Some stock LBZ's have bent rods. I would just build one mean motor and be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ya but I want to build 2 lol. One mild and one bigger build. And I would have rob do my tuning cause I will be more comfortable with his tuning and I agree with doing twins. But building one big motor isn't really the plan cause I literally just put that trans in a 1,000 miles ago. From what I've read the the lbz rods will for sure hold 600 so I think I'd be okay. Like I said I won't be on that tune very much but it's nice to know its there. I'd really like to hit 650-700 but I would more than likely be satisfied with 600 and the quick spool of twins. And I'm not going to risk pushing my lb7 rods that far. The main reason for the new motor is because I don't know what the truck did in its previous life but their was a hole in the box from a stack and it had and edge juice w/ attitude so I want a fresh motor for my new trans cause I plan on keeping my cc for a really long time.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And everyone says lbz rods are 15% better so if lb7 is 550 max then lbz should be 630. And yes I'm aware that they can still bend at 600. Even a good rod can bend under its hp limit. Just because something says it can take it doesnt mean it will everytime sometimes you get a bad part IMO. Any other input?


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I made 678hp and 1408tq on my stock bottom end with 60% injectors and a S366 lol. Would I do it again no! You are on the right track with your build. If you want to save some money the 40% injectors will be more then plenty for a twins setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I've done a lot of researching the forums and here's my plan.
LB7 block and crank
Lbz rods
Lb7 pistons delipped and coated
Keyed cam and crank
Arp rod bolts, main bolts, and head studs
Lb7 heads stock
40 over sticks
Twins. Probably s475 over stock not sure I need one that big though. Probably could get buy on a s366 over stock.
Lb7 intake that's stock unless someone says otherwise
Y bridge
Stock cp3
Going to stay around 600 hp and stay under 1200 tq. And I plan on bringing the fuel in on top. Tuning will be done by rob because I'm not comfortable tuning it myself.
Obviously I will still be running my ad2 mbrp dp and 5 in straight back exhaust.
I don't think I missed anything...
I need to do more research on whether I want pistons with reliefs or not. Not sure on what is best.
And I haven't done much research on what it takes to fit the lbz rod on the lb7 piston and I'm assuming you use the lbz rod bearings.
IMO I don't see why this motor wouldn't last me a long time as I would run on like a 500 hp tune daily and the 600 on special occasions. My thoughts are that if you drive like a f'ing idiot then ya the rods will bend. You can buy good parts and if you're a moron you can wreck anything that's just how life is. Be conservative with tuning and when you use them and I think you can run this setup for a really long time with no issues. The key to this setup from what I have read is keep the torque down and bring the fuel in on top.
Anybody disagree with me? I'm hoping to get at least 100k out of this engine.




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S366 over small is way too small. Your stock charger is about 64mm and a S366 is 66mm. You'll be just fine with a S475 over stock. Stock LB7 pistons cut and coated will be just fine no need for valve reliefs if your running a stock cam. You could even run cut uncoated pistons or even straight stock pistons with twins. Your EGT's will be nice and low and that's what kills pistons early.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I planned on new pistons because I'm not sure if the sb I will get will have good ones in it or not so I'm budgeting in new ones. Btw thanks for your help on helping me make my decision on what to do.


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Keep your eyes open for a used set. I sold my names used set months ago for like $300 shipped and they had 140k on them and still looked nice and clean. I would have used them in my build but got a package deal on used c&c pistons and cam.

No problem I did a budget build last year so I know all the little things. You might want to do a dampener and BD flex plate. I've seen a messed up flex plate on a couple bigger hp stock motors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Does anyone know where I'd find new stock lbz rods and how much. I don't want aftermarket garbage either. Thanks


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh ya I had planned on a fluid dampner but thanks for the tip on the flexplate


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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What did your budget build consist of Wisconsinhick1?
C&C LB7 pistons, stage 1 cam, flex plate, keyed crank, s475, P&P heads, 100% injectors, dual mod cp3's..... That's all I can think of now.
 

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Why put the money into a build if your only going for 600 HP? You could do twins, LBZ Regulator, and 60 overs with Robs tuning, and I bet your stock bottom end holds up just fine at 600hp. Then if a rod bends, do your mild build. But there is a good chance your motor will last quite a while at 600hp with Robs tuning. Head studs might be a good idea for the twins, but youcan throw them in when you replace the injectors... one at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ya after I got to pricing it all out it was going to cost a little more than I had planned which my plan was just buy a part at a time but now I'm looking more at doing exactly what you said. I just don't want to add too much and have it let go and then have to drive the old 92 Honda accord with 250k on her until I can afford to rebuild the motor. I was just seeing what everyone's thoughts are on it I wasn't totally set on the build just wanted some different opinions was all.


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