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I'm in the process of installing head studs and grade C gaskets with the merchant automotive install kit. Myself and two friends had both heads off in under 5 hours Tuesday evening with no experience or directions. The heads are at the machine shop now and I will be putting it back together Saturday. I will get pics up later, just thought i would post a thread for anyone thinking if attempting this to ask questions and get pointers.
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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What are you planning on setting the lash to? .010 seems to make it run alot smoother imo
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wiring harness off the top of the engine.


In the process.


Fighting the passenger side up-pipe to manifold bolts, the other side was fairly easy.


Both heads off


Cylinder with clean spot on piston from coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What are you planning on setting the lash to? .010 seems to make it run alot smoother imo
That's probably what I'm going to go with. Thanks.
 

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I would do new injector cups and seals while its apart. Save yourself some hassle in the future..
 

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Someone mentioned that the rear studs on the driver's side prevent the head from going on, because of interference with the firewall. Best to stick those in the head and fold with clothpins then screw them in the block after the head is on.

Good luck
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Someone mentioned that the rear studs on the driver's side prevent the head from going on, because of interference with the firewall. Best to stick those in the head and fold with clothpins then screw them in the block after the head is on.

Good luck
That is true...

Stick stud in head with nut on it...then put the head down, problem solved :D

How i had to do mine, the back bottom was the only one I had to do this on.

Also, food for thought the 2 little round pieces, make sure those are out of the heads. Place them in block when you go set the heads on.
 

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I would do new injector cups and seals while its apart. Save yourself some hassle in the future..
No need to do new cups unless one is screwed up, they arent exactly cheap. After 160k, mine were fine and just pulled cleaned and resealed.
 

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yeah mine was a motherf*cker, i used a rubber mallet and beat the shit out of my fire wall, you cannot put any of the studs in the block or the head wont clear on the driverside.or get the last bottom stud in with out hittin the firewall, at least w/o patiece. my #7 piston was dry but had a 1/8" scour on the corner of it . yours looks pretty good
 

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No need to do new cups unless one is screwed up, they arent exactly cheap. After 160k, mine were fine and just pulled cleaned and resealed.
I wont do a head job on lb7s without em. 2 of the 6 lb7 headjobs had leaking cups that I have done. I understand your point... mines is its cheaper to do it now than it is later. That's what I am getting. Jmo
 

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I wont do a head job on lb7s without em. 2 of the 6 lb7 headjobs had leaking cups that I have done. I understand your point... mines is its cheaper to do it now than it is later. That's what I am getting. Jmo
Right. If you pull the heads, always best to at least remove, inspect and reseal.

i would never just say "yeah they were holding good before, I will leave em". Just asking for trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The machine shop is pulling the cups and resealing them right now and pressure testing the heads after, just talked to him because I wanted to start on it tonight and finish it Friday night after work . I have little binder clips I'm gonna use for the rear studs....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Gifts from the brown Santa!


 

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Good time to do your pump rub if you havent while you are waiting on the heads!! :)
 

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Good time to do your pump rub if you havent while you are waiting on the heads!! :)
Done did it! Heads are gonna be done tommorrow and me and a buddy are gonna pull an all-nighter putting it back together, hopefully its running by early Saturday morning. I don't play around! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just got the heads back, I highly recommend Baltimore Mack, they told me I should stud it with ARPs and that I got it a little hot. Super cool guys and I was out the door for $270, they said it would have normally been $360 but they gave me a deal!!!
 

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Sweet.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Should i retourque the studs after a heat cycle?
 

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Just follow their instructions. You dont have to retorque after a heat cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Mirror finish on the heads.


The machinist said he had to take .006 off both heads, id say 1800* is too hot. lol
 
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