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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm doing nozzels on my truck right now and was thinking about doing head studs and gaskets while I'm there. I'm wondering what the advantage of doing this would be. From what I've found by the time you need head studs and gaskets, you start bending rods. So if I don't want to bend rods, why do the head studs if there not needed? Any imput is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!
 

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That One Guy
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Head studs are good if you plan on going over 45 psi with an upgraded turbo. Also you will need C gaskets from the dealer with the studs. I would upgrade them you can never be too safe with your upgrades. Studs have more clamping force so personally thats why I would do them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't plan on doing a turbo upgrade so, I want to run 450hp at the wheels, so if I can do that safely on stock parts??? do I need the head studs and gaskets?? Thanks
 

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i would do them if your running a single charger over 40 jmo, you can do studs without pulling the heads. just swap them out one at a time, also you dont necessarily need to use grade c gaskets with studs. most of the time c's get used to lower compression just a hair to help save hardparts.
 

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if all you want is 450 get built trans, liftpump and good tuning and you will be there.
 

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Yep Nate knows his stuff and built trans, lift pump, and tuning will easily get you 450.
 

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^^^^^^^ Yessir
:GoodJob
 

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So I'm doing nozzels on my truck right now and was thinking about doing head studs and gaskets while I'm there. I'm wondering what the advantage of doing this would be. From what I've found by the time you need head studs and gaskets, you start bending rods. So if I don't want to bend rods, why do the head studs if there not needed? Any imput is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!
What year is the truck? I am just going through doin the head gasket and I would suggest it. I got the Banks Economind tuner and had no leaks. 6 months later, got a leak. Certain years have a known problem with the gaskets..
 

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how many miles? my gaskets started leaking at 243,000, so i had to pull mine. might do nozzles while im in there, but im studding mine as a precaution.
Mines has got 238,000 kms.what are the nozzles costing? I am going to do the downpipe. hope its worth the 350$..
 

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Quicker Then Brian!
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Mines has got 238,000 kms.what are the nozzles costing? I am going to do the downpipe. hope its worth the 350$..
just nozzles are 6-800. injectors on the other hand are another story.


if yours havent been done in a while i would do it while its all apart
 

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01's are most prone. If they're not leaking you can get by with replace one stud at a time. Unless your doin' heavy mods, C grade not neccesary.
 

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Mines has got 238,000 kms.what are the nozzles costing? I am going to do the downpipe. hope its worth the 350$..
$350? sounds too cheap. Does this person have a following of good results? I sent mine to George AKA Big Dipper, was around $750
 

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Yeah, brain fart on my behalf. oh, hey Phil.
 

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I think he was talking about the price of the down pipe.
You are correct!! Anyone familar with the RDL downpipe? Looks beefy but is this worth 350$?
 

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rick makes top notch stuff


however i was talking to a MBRP rep last week and he was telling me how they'll have their lb7 downpipe complete and ready for testing in about a week or so. so figure a couple months on that. but he also said he would be about 50 bucks cheaper then the RDL unit..
 

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Not to hijack the thread, but how could i tell if i had head studs installed? I believe i may have some but am not sure.
 

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pull a valve cover, pass side easier.
 

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rick makes top notch stuff


however i was talking to a MBRP rep last week and he was telling me how they'll have their lb7 downpipe complete and ready for testing in about a week or so. so figure a couple months on that. but he also said he would be about 50 bucks cheaper then the RDL unit..
For 50 bucks I'll go with the RDL.. It's looks real sweet..
 
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