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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter #1
1 Left headgasket
Grade A: 97309562
Grade B: 97389257
Grade C: 97389258

1 Right Headgasket
Grade A: 97309559
Grade B: 97309560
Grade C: 97309561

1 Set of ARP Headstuds: # 230-4201

Injector installation kit:
(2x)Internal Return line to head banjo seal: #97600925
(8x) Injector to return line banjo seal: #97228933
(8x) Injector copper washer: #97216082
(8x) Injector body Oring: #94011699
(8x) Injector line Oring: #94011701

1 tube of loctite Super Grey gasket maker

(16x) Injector cup oring: #94051259

(2x) External return line to head banjo seal (passenger front/ driver rear): #97600925

(1x) Fuel return line to fuel distribution block: #97250485

(2x) Coolant Ybridge to head gasket: #97223686

(1x) Heater pipe to Thermostat pipe Oring: #94011605

(1x) Upper radiator pipe Oring: #94011604

(1x) Lower Bypass pipe oring: #94011603

(1x) Upper bypass pipe: #94011602

(2x) Exhaust Manifold to Up pipe gasket: #97188685



Optional Stuff: (8x) Injector return line banjo bolt: #97228929 (Rec having a few extra, they strip easy)

(8x) Injector cup: #97188463

(3-4x) banjo seal (nice to have, used in various locations): #97600925

(1x) Turbo downpipe gasket: #97192619

(2x) Turbo pedestal to up pipe gasket: #97192618

(2x) Yrbidge gasket (highly recommend): #97251963

(2x) Exhaust manifold gasket (if manifold is removed): #98002804

(2x) lower valve Cover gasket (reusable): #97188896

(12x) hex head bolts to replace oe allen head lower valve cover bolts: ace hardware

(11x) hardened allen head bolts for upper valve cover (oe strip easy): ace hardware


Think that is everything.
John
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter #2
Listed a few extra Orings, Its too easy/cheap to change them while its apart. Not so easy if you put it back together and one leaks.

Ybridge gaskets are supposedly reusable, but I recommend changing them as well. I changed mine and even put a gasket maker on em to make sure.

Pretty sure i covered everything.
 

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if i can do injectors with motor mounted and cab on...how much harder is it to do head gaskets/studs?
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter #4
if i can do injectors with motor mounted and cab on...how much harder is it to do head gaskets/studs?
Its not too bad, I did mine in cab, most do.

Only stud you have to worry about is the far back/bottom stud on the driver side.

You will have to put the stud through the head with the nut on it, to retain it in the head. Otherwise, it won't clear the firewall when you try and put it in the head with the head on the block.
 

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Thanks! It'll be the first time the valve covers have been removed! Should be a fun weekend (s)

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using AutoGuide.com App
 

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so, getting ready to do some head gaskets and hopefully injector and possibly cup seals this weekend.
any idea if the actual gasket kit comes with injector/cup seals?
and any tips for extra sealant on which gasket/seals? or loctite on certian things aside from the obvious?
 

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didn't realize it was a sticky
 

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You have one part number listed for injector copper washers but I was under the impression that there were various thicknesses depending on what grade head gasket a guy went with...
 

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You have one part number listed for injector copper washers but I was under the impression that there were various thicknesses depending on what grade head gasket a guy went with...
I've never seen different thickness copper washers.
 

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Same head gasket along with lots of other gaskets. ?
 

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I did my head gaskets and took the front clip off. It was maybe a days work to remove the clip and made everything accessible. Also helped by showing 2 surface rust areas that need attention before getting worse that I wouldnt have found without removing the clip. I think I have a bad head rather than gasket failure. There was a bunch of pitting in the #2 cylinder head combustion area, around the valves and at the head gasket. So she got new heads, injectors, CP3, water pump, charge pipes, arp studs and valve cover bolts, turbo rebuild and wetzel wheel, down pipe and turbo horn. Cant wait to fire her up. Hope to have it done this weekend.
 

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I did my head gaskets and took the front clip off. It was maybe a days work to remove the clip and made everything accessible. Also helped by showing 2 surface rust areas that need attention before getting worse that I wouldnt have found without removing the clip. I think I have a bad head rather than gasket failure. There was a bunch of pitting in the #2 cylinder head combustion area, around the valves and at the head gasket. So she got new heads, injectors, CP3, water pump, charge pipes, arp studs and valve cover bolts, turbo rebuild and wetzel wheel, down pipe and turbo horn. Cant wait to fire her up. Hope to have it done this weekend.
This is my plan one day.

Except I have to remove a ranch hand first.

How much did all that run ya?
 

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Havnt done all the math but in my head in around $5000 in parts. And did the work my self. If you need a list with where to buy let me know. I did a lot is research to find the good deals and customer service.
 

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Havnt done all the math but in my head in around $5000 in parts. And did the work my self. If you need a list with where to buy let me know. I did a lot is research to find the good deals and customer service.
I ain't doing it yet. I think if I tore it down that far I would pray my heads were fine and replace injectors instead.

How many miles were you at
 

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I have 170k on mine. The injectors were done by GM at around 90k. The reason that I tore the engine down was because after a short drive I noticed that I was dumping a lot of anti-freeze and the upper radiator hose was rockhard even know the truck was still cold. So I took the top and apart to see if the head gaskets were bad. I didn't see any definite breaks or problems with the head gaskets. Upon inspection of the engine is when I noticed the problems with the head I believe I had a cracked head that was causing boost pressure to bleed over into the cooling system.so I had to get new heads regardless because of the issues with the one head.I got the heads at a pretty good price they were only $525 ea. The reason I did the injectors was because when you take them off all the rust and contamination from the high-pressure lines falls down into the inlet of the injector and fouls it up.The rest I did just because Murphy's Law would kick my ass two weeks later and something that I didn't replace wood break.I got the engine back together as it sits now hopefully I should have it running by Monday.
 
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