So I had been having some issues with my lb7, and finally decided to tear into it and re-do the injectors. Issues were:
Anyway, on the first day I got all the crap out of the way and exposed the valve covers except for the driver's side with the fuel lines...I had to get a fuel line disconnect tool. So I took the passenger side off and got the injectors pulled with some effort. One thing I noticed was how much rusty sludge was filling the injector inlet. I assume that all fell in there from my hard lines after removing them (couldn't have run at all if that was in there with the lines connected). They were completely plugged. This shows the importance of replacing those hard lines. Had some crusty looking tips on the injectors from this side.
The driver's side was a nightmare. I swear, whoever did this last time didn't know the difference between in-lbs and ft-lbs. Those valve cover bolts were torqued down like head bolts. I was bending my 3/8 drive ratchet with extendable handle trying to remove them. I managed to, with a lot of patience, a prayer over each bolt, and every trick I could think of, get all of them out but two. Those two rounded off. Luckily they were in a position where I could drill the heads with a drill bit slightly larger than their shaft, until the heads popped off. The bolts up by the firewall were not torqued as hard, and a ball end hex bit socket worked its magic on those.
Finally got the valve covers off and started to pull the injectors. Of course, the hardest one to get at (up by the firewall) appeared to have a failed copper washer. The injector shaft was burned and crusty all the way up, and even the o-ring was broken. That injector was nearly impossible to pull out because of the crusty shaft.
So I am thinking of just replacing the injector cup on the crusty injector, and leave the rest. I had no coolant issues. Even the crusty one didn't pull out the cup. Thoughts?
- Throttle jumping around slightly under light load
- Hard start when engine hot - had to keep cranking with pedal to the floor and almost wouldn't start at all
- Loud clattering coming from driver's side of engine
- Slightly rough idle, like a cylinder wasn't firing
- Oil started to overflow (this is what finally made me start this project)
Anyway, on the first day I got all the crap out of the way and exposed the valve covers except for the driver's side with the fuel lines...I had to get a fuel line disconnect tool. So I took the passenger side off and got the injectors pulled with some effort. One thing I noticed was how much rusty sludge was filling the injector inlet. I assume that all fell in there from my hard lines after removing them (couldn't have run at all if that was in there with the lines connected). They were completely plugged. This shows the importance of replacing those hard lines. Had some crusty looking tips on the injectors from this side.
The driver's side was a nightmare. I swear, whoever did this last time didn't know the difference between in-lbs and ft-lbs. Those valve cover bolts were torqued down like head bolts. I was bending my 3/8 drive ratchet with extendable handle trying to remove them. I managed to, with a lot of patience, a prayer over each bolt, and every trick I could think of, get all of them out but two. Those two rounded off. Luckily they were in a position where I could drill the heads with a drill bit slightly larger than their shaft, until the heads popped off. The bolts up by the firewall were not torqued as hard, and a ball end hex bit socket worked its magic on those.
Finally got the valve covers off and started to pull the injectors. Of course, the hardest one to get at (up by the firewall) appeared to have a failed copper washer. The injector shaft was burned and crusty all the way up, and even the o-ring was broken. That injector was nearly impossible to pull out because of the crusty shaft.
So I am thinking of just replacing the injector cup on the crusty injector, and leave the rest. I had no coolant issues. Even the crusty one didn't pull out the cup. Thoughts?