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LB7 Injector replacement - Failed Copper Washer

9.2K views 26 replies 10 participants last post by  jolod68610  
#1 ·
So I had been having some issues with my lb7, and finally decided to tear into it and re-do the injectors. Issues were:

  • Throttle jumping around slightly under light load
  • Hard start when engine hot - had to keep cranking with pedal to the floor and almost wouldn't start at all
  • Loud clattering coming from driver's side of engine
  • Slightly rough idle, like a cylinder wasn't firing
  • Oil started to overflow (this is what finally made me start this project)
First of all, let me say regarding whoever designed the LB7 with injectors under the valve covers, that I would like to install those injectors someplace on him that he probably wouldn't like very much. That would be easier than putting them back in that blasted engine.

Anyway, on the first day I got all the crap out of the way and exposed the valve covers except for the driver's side with the fuel lines...I had to get a fuel line disconnect tool. So I took the passenger side off and got the injectors pulled with some effort. One thing I noticed was how much rusty sludge was filling the injector inlet. I assume that all fell in there from my hard lines after removing them (couldn't have run at all if that was in there with the lines connected). They were completely plugged. This shows the importance of replacing those hard lines. Had some crusty looking tips on the injectors from this side.
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The driver's side was a nightmare. I swear, whoever did this last time didn't know the difference between in-lbs and ft-lbs. Those valve cover bolts were torqued down like head bolts. I was bending my 3/8 drive ratchet with extendable handle trying to remove them. I managed to, with a lot of patience, a prayer over each bolt, and every trick I could think of, get all of them out but two. Those two rounded off. Luckily they were in a position where I could drill the heads with a drill bit slightly larger than their shaft, until the heads popped off. The bolts up by the firewall were not torqued as hard, and a ball end hex bit socket worked its magic on those.
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Finally got the valve covers off and started to pull the injectors. Of course, the hardest one to get at (up by the firewall) appeared to have a failed copper washer. The injector shaft was burned and crusty all the way up, and even the o-ring was broken. That injector was nearly impossible to pull out because of the crusty shaft.

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So I am thinking of just replacing the injector cup on the crusty injector, and leave the rest. I had no coolant issues. Even the crusty one didn't pull out the cup. Thoughts?
 

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#2 ·
If it were me, I would pull each one and thoroughly clean each one and see what they look like after that. If they don't clean up well, or don't fully clean the sealing surface, then replace it/them.
 
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#3 ·
I had a 94 Ford IDI (7.3) engine that I did injectors on once. Ford has a tool to ream out the surface in the head the injector seals against (IDI navistar engines don't use injector cups) - which worked great on 7 out of 8 of the bores. Naturally I couldn't get the tool in the passenger side bore by the firewall without removing the AC evaporator... So I did my best to clean the bore out and put the new injector and copper washer in, and hoped for the best.

After about two months and a few hundred miles, the engine developed a terrible knock. I tried everything I could think of, before swapping a 6.9 IDI engine in.

When the old 7.3 engine was out of the truck and on the ground, I decided I'd swap the 'new' injectors over... low and behold the last injector on the passenger side would NOT come out with any amount of effort... Finally said to hell with it and built a slide hammer with an old injector line and managed to get it out, and it was caked up with carbon just like what you have.

Turns out the engine was not toast - but that burned up injector was causing all kinds of problems.

Moral of this story - I'd change the cup out and be damned sure every other bore is perfect :)
 
#5 ·
Wow where does all that rusty stuff come from on the fuel inlet. Looks like that thing is in desperate need of some TLC.
 
#6 ·
I am assuming that just fell in there as soon as I disconnected the hard line. There was corrosion up under the screw-on cap where it meets the tube. The inside of the line and the seal cone area were clean, but disconnecting the line let that stuff fall in there. Almost every injector had that pile of sludge in there after I pulled off the upper valve cover. I am replacing all lines with new ones.
 
#7 ·
That is rust and corrosion from the fitting/nut on the high pressure line that connects to the injector. The LB7 lines seem to do that HORRIBLY compared to LLY and later engines. If the lines have been on any length of time, they will drop that gunk down in the injector inlet when they are taken off
 
#9 ·
There was a post within the last month (maybe even 2 weeks) about cleaning the injector cup. Lots of pictures. Do a search and find that thread.
 
#11 ·
Man, those are ugly. Looks like more than one issue to me. The carboned up tips probably come from the leaking injector which is dumping raw fuel into the cylinder. The gunked up inlet port is probably from water leaking through the connection where the high pressure lines screw onto the injector. I was told to silicone the tops so that water cannot leak past the caps. The gunk around the shaft of the injector could be a leaking cup, or could also be from the water leaking down the high pressure fuel lines. The lines are much cheaper to replace these days, so do not hesitate to replace them. Whata mess. Good luck. I've done mine twice so far and only had to deal with one carboned up injector which makes it hard to pull out of the cup. My truck was smoking at idle.
 
#12 ·
Thanks. I am definitely replacing all the hard lines, and plan on doing the silicone around the cups. I thought my truck ran surprisingly well despite all this. Only one injector had a bad balance rate. That crusty one definitely lost it's copper washer seal, and I am sure that one was making the awful clattering noise on the driver's side. All the other cups are very clean inside. Truck hummed nicely down the highway, and didn't smoke really at all. No coolant use either.
 
#13 ·
X2 on Lincoln Diesel above. Be sure to go with the OEM injectors that have been modified to meet the Warranty requirements for GM. I used remans the first time and they only lasted about 40000 before number 7 started leaking and caused my engine to smoke at idle. Lincoln Diesel should spell all of that out for you. As I recall, they also carry the high pressure lines. One other little suggestion, be very careful with your return lines. I accidentally put a very small bend in one when removing, and could not get it to line up after that. After spending hours I finally purchased a new one. It looks like no big deal, and I thought no sweat, I'll just straighten it. Didn't happen.
 
#15 ·
After you mentioned that about your return lines, I inspected mine closer. I noticed this. Apparently only half the banjo bolt washer was in there? This is on the end banjo bolt right by the failed copper washer injector. I don't see the other half of it anywhere on the head. Wouldn't that have been leaking fuel into the head?
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#16 ·
It probably is in there somewhere or fell off on the floor. It would have been a leak into the oil for sure
 
#17 ·
Leaking fuel into the oil is a pretty safe bet. Give everything in the fuel system a good inspection. It could have easily ended up down in the oil pan if it broke up small enough. Coppers pretty soft, don't think it will cause you an issue, but that's not good. Hopefully it will come out with an oil change or wedge in some harmless location.
 
#19 ·
So I thought I would post some pictures of the cup seat in case anyone is interested. The cup seat was a little dirty, so I cleaned it up. Then I shoved the camera into the cylinder and looked at the top of my piston. Looks like some oil or fuel pooled on there, I will vacuum that out before sealing the new cup in there.
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#20 ·
I thought I would finish out this thread. Wow, what a difference new injectors makes!
  • My engine is a lot quieter, especially under load
  • No more throttle surge under load
  • Idle much smoother
  • Oil pressure is much better
  • Engine starts even when warm, easily
  • Did I mention it is quieter?
I also re-did all my battery cables, the entire AC system, the entire glow plug system, the engine block heater and thermostats, rubber fuel lines, and anything else I could clean up and re seal while I was in there. Blasted and painted the valve covers and upper radiator pipe too. Only problem is I have no idea where this bracket that I blasted and painted came from. Anyone know?
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#21 ·
It bolts on to the ficm bracket, but don't worry about it because mine has been gone for over a decade and pretty much all of them that I've worked on in the last ten years has been missing when I get in there too. It will be fine without it
 
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#24 ·
Looking good!
 
#26 ·
So I just couldn't resist posting one more update. After all this work (replacing injectors, glow plugs, glow plug controller, battery cables, block heater, entire AC system, and a bunch of other stuff), I took the family on a vacation out to South Dakota with the Duramax. After about 2000 miles on this trip, the oil and coolant were still both full, and separate 👍. The truck ran flawlessly, through the mountains, through the Badlands, through Custer State Park, to Crazy Horse and Mount Rushmore. I even squeezed it through the Needle's Eye on Needles Highway in the mountains. I really see the value of a diesel when driving in the mountains. That Duramax goes right up the steep grades without down shifting. I did even realize how difficult those grades are until I started passing gassers with my window rolled down and heard their engines screaming. Hopefully this truck has a lot of life left in it 😁.
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