Wasn't sure if I was going to post this here or not but my oil cooler thread seemed to be quite popular so maybe this will help others who are looking to rebuild their Garrett VGT turbo on their Duramax.
I can only seem to post 10-pictures at a time so this will be a multi-post thread.
I had experienced an intermittent P2563 code and after determining my wiring, connectors and everything else was in proper order, I figured I had either vanes hanging up OR a seized unison ring in the turbo, however I was not experiencing the P003A code nor the reduced power or driveability issues that most people seem in conjunction with a P2563 code.
I purchased a rebuild kit with the 360-degree thrust washer as well as a stainless steel unison ring from KC Turbo. I have no relationship with them and feel the kit is similar to many others I found online.
While I was ordering parts I purchased a new GM hydraulic actuator solenoid as well as GM gaskets/seals and all new ARP exhaust fasteners. I try not to reuse exhaust fasteners when at all possible and I have had great results with ARP fasteners over the past 30+ years of using them in many stock and race applications.
Here the truck is racked with the passenger's front tire/wheel removed and inner fender for access.
A little tip or trick when removing barbed style connectors is using a small socket that is about the same size as the hole in the bracket, place the socket over the barb and push. It will push the barb right out of the bracket undamaged. One of my pet peeves is popping the hood on something and seeing damaged or destroyed barbs on connectors.
Once you push the socket over the barb simply push the connector off the bracket and there's no damage. This was the vane position sensor being removed using a 1/4" drive 1/4" shallow socket.
Progressing along by removing the serpentine belt and moving the A/C compressor over out of the way near the passenger side battery tray.
The next item seems to be controversial, the turbo heat shield. It will not come out in one piece with the cab in place. It is common practice among many to toss it in the garbage but I am not a fan of that option. I used my small pneumatic saw to cut through the narrowest section and in a straight line then remove in two pieces.
Easy peezy.
At this point go ahead and start removing the downpipe heat shield and downpipe. Then soak the exhaust fasteners with your favorite flavor of penetrant. I'm a Kroil fan so I soaked the exhaust fasteners before calling it a night.
Next using a 12-point 12mm socket start removing all of the fasteners for the passenger's side up-pipe. I then removed the upper and lower bolts on the driver's side up-pipe. Many people won't remove the entire driver's up-pipe but it's only three more fasteners and it makes the oil drain line access SO much easier for removal and especially for reassembly.
With both up-pipes removed it's time to unbolt the pedestal bolts at the turbo. Two are not to bad to get to but the driver's side front one is a bit more cumbersome and will require a 17mm swivel socket and extension reaching down between the center section and turbine housing.
More pictures to follow.....
I can only seem to post 10-pictures at a time so this will be a multi-post thread.
I had experienced an intermittent P2563 code and after determining my wiring, connectors and everything else was in proper order, I figured I had either vanes hanging up OR a seized unison ring in the turbo, however I was not experiencing the P003A code nor the reduced power or driveability issues that most people seem in conjunction with a P2563 code.
I purchased a rebuild kit with the 360-degree thrust washer as well as a stainless steel unison ring from KC Turbo. I have no relationship with them and feel the kit is similar to many others I found online.
While I was ordering parts I purchased a new GM hydraulic actuator solenoid as well as GM gaskets/seals and all new ARP exhaust fasteners. I try not to reuse exhaust fasteners when at all possible and I have had great results with ARP fasteners over the past 30+ years of using them in many stock and race applications.
Here the truck is racked with the passenger's front tire/wheel removed and inner fender for access.
A little tip or trick when removing barbed style connectors is using a small socket that is about the same size as the hole in the bracket, place the socket over the barb and push. It will push the barb right out of the bracket undamaged. One of my pet peeves is popping the hood on something and seeing damaged or destroyed barbs on connectors.
Once you push the socket over the barb simply push the connector off the bracket and there's no damage. This was the vane position sensor being removed using a 1/4" drive 1/4" shallow socket.
Progressing along by removing the serpentine belt and moving the A/C compressor over out of the way near the passenger side battery tray.
The next item seems to be controversial, the turbo heat shield. It will not come out in one piece with the cab in place. It is common practice among many to toss it in the garbage but I am not a fan of that option. I used my small pneumatic saw to cut through the narrowest section and in a straight line then remove in two pieces.
Easy peezy.
At this point go ahead and start removing the downpipe heat shield and downpipe. Then soak the exhaust fasteners with your favorite flavor of penetrant. I'm a Kroil fan so I soaked the exhaust fasteners before calling it a night.
Next using a 12-point 12mm socket start removing all of the fasteners for the passenger's side up-pipe. I then removed the upper and lower bolts on the driver's side up-pipe. Many people won't remove the entire driver's up-pipe but it's only three more fasteners and it makes the oil drain line access SO much easier for removal and especially for reassembly.
With both up-pipes removed it's time to unbolt the pedestal bolts at the turbo. Two are not to bad to get to but the driver's side front one is a bit more cumbersome and will require a 17mm swivel socket and extension reaching down between the center section and turbine housing.
More pictures to follow.....