This was mine with 312k on the clock. My intake was about a inch thick all the way around, i don't even see how mine could make a pound of boost let alone breathe. My MAP was completely blocked off don't know how it was even reading. Thank god i got rid of the EGR.

 

What do you clean that crap off with? My truck is at 200,000kms, or about 125,000 miles. My EGR was caked with that stuff when we took it off.

 

Take all the intake parts to the machine shop. They will clean them up nicely for you. Even the valve covers too if you want.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Berryman's carb cleaner, and a putty knife. Melts it right off.

 

I was reading the instructions that came with the ARP studs and it says to follow the manufacture torque sequence to 125ft lbs. Should I go 60-90-125 for the studs and do I need to let them sit 24 hours, back them off and do it again? I was also wondering about the small upper bolts because the instructions never mentioned a sequence for them.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

I think you'd be just fine with that torque sequence but just be sure to go around them all at the end and double check they are all at a minimum of 125 ft-lbs. Seems like leaving it 24 hrs is a bit overkill......ideally you drive it for a week (heat cycling) and retorque them all again, but the most crucial part is really surface prep. The smaller ones are just secondary (ie they seal low pressure areas) so it's not as critical for the torque on those bolts (just double check those when you do the others).

 

Just got my heads back from the machine shop. He said the valve train was still in good shape but put new seals in and said the heads didn't need to be resurfaced, so my question is will it still be ok to use the grade c head gaskets if they weren't resurfaced?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

I actually prefer not to surface them if you can help it.......give them a quick once over with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper (use WD40 as a lubricant) to make sure there's not old gasket material left before install.

 

I can't imagine you will notice any difference. Run em.

 

Most run grade c because there thicker which means lope compression, not a whole lot but the lower the better

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

It's only like .015 diff. Might cost you 1 or 2 horse power but with new head gaskets the thing will run like new!

 

I torqued my studs 60-90-125 with the supplied arp ultra torque lube one time and started putting things back together. I followed arp's instructions to the T and they say nothing about letting them sit or re torquing. I may go back to re-torque once the weather warms up just for peace of mind, but from what I see, most don't. Your call.

 

Does this look ok to bolt it back together?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Looks good, you don't have to get the stains out. Just the gasket n junk on the surface. Clean em up good and get it back on the road

Stock 03

 

Finally back from out of state so now I can put it together. I have a question about the arp studs. Am I supposed to coat the end of the studs that go into the block with ultra torque fastener assembly lubricant?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Yes. I coated all the threads. I even coated both sides of the washers and the base of the nuts. Basically any surface that sees friction. Use an acid brush to keep things neat. Remember to blow out the threaded holes in the block with a good shot of compressed air before installing the studs.

 

Thanks, I wasn't sure because the instructions say to use thread sealer if the cylinder head studs protrude into a water jacket and doesn't say anything about using the ARP ultra torque fastener assembly lubricant.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Got the right side head on.
Also replaced all the glow plugs and the FPR since everything is apart.

 

Looking good. What did you use to clean the block surfac? Looks like it turned out awesome.

 

I used 600 grit sandpaper and WD40 just like GM says. Took about 1 hour per side to get it looking like that.

 

man what a job. I see why they are 3-5k to be done, your doing good jay, she should run pretty freaking good!

 

Looking good, i wish GM would have made the driver side as easy as the passenger side

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Finally was able to work on it most of the day today. Put the other head on, got the valve train in and set the lash set to .012.

 

Anyone know where these brackets go?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Well after all that I know why the dealer wanted 5k for the job. I got it all back together and it started right up with 30 seconds of cranking. It runs very good and is so much quieter than before. Seems like it has more power and the throttle response is better too.

Also bought a late christmas present for myself that will get installed this weekend.