When they say their from Windows that I have a warranty refund, I play along for several minutes then I tell them that I’ve kept them on the phone long enough to trace the call that my colleagues will be their in less than 30 seconds.They could have at least lied to you, like when the Indian telemarketers claim to be (insert really American sounding name here) calling from (Well known large American City)
If the fuel lines are getting weak that can happen no matter what pump you have .I wouldn’t put a FASS on a lawnmower, I had problems out of mine and they were no help. It’s supposed to be where if the pump quits, it will still suck fuel through it, not on mine, left me stranded in BFE Canada. Go with either a Airdog or a Fuelab.
I have searched but keep finding conflicting info and no real solid answers.
I am very likely purchasing a 15 LML on Monday. Will be ordering a lift pump before I even leave the dealer.
I have decided to go with Fass, so that takes the debate out of things haha.
But my area of conflict is what size. I'm stuck between the 95 and the 165. I see that is you run too large of a pump then you can have issues with it pushing fuel over the relief valve which is not good.
My plans for the truck are to get it on a weight loss program and some mild tunes. Nothing wild, just basically optimized stock tune.
So my question is, is the 95 GPH enough for my needs? Or will the 165 work fine even on an otherwise stock truck?
Thank you and I appreciate any input.
What protects the LP and filters, certainly not the driveline a couple inches away.No you would place the factory skid plate back over the fuel tank. That is just showing the routing.
If your concerned about changing filters there is a easy way with no spillage other than what's in the filters without ball valves.Self Priming! :wink2:
That said, if I were to do mine over Id seriously consider the Kennedy, with two ball valves on either end like on Hook's installation.
Mine is self priming. When I change the filters I tighten the WS/Filter and leave the FF 1/2 turn loose.If your concerned about changing filters there is a easy way with no spillage other than what's in the filters without ball valves.
Get your tank down to about 1/4, drive the front on blocks 6"blocks works, loosen the fuel cap to release the possible pressure, change the filters.
I prefill mine with fresh fuel, that fuel will get filtered when it hits the engine.
Cycle the key off and on (not starting the engine) several times listening to your pump, and the flow thru your return with the cap still off.
You might not have to prime the stock filter, I haven't had to yet, tighten the fuel cap then start your engines. :thumb
It wasn’t the fuel lines, whatever came apart in the pump stopped it up dead. As soon as I got the tools to unhook the FASS lines and put the factory lines back to the tank and then bleed the system, it started right up and made it the last 1000 miles to Alaska for me. I don’t know what broke bad enough to stop it from pulling fuel through it, but it did.If the fuel lines are getting weak that can happen no matter what pump you have .
What I’m suggesting is you don’t have to leave the filter loose allowing fuel to overflow, less mess and no loosing more fuel than what was in the filters before changing.Mine is self priming. When I change the filters I tighten the WS/Filter and leave the FF 1/2 turn loose.
Turn on the key and as soon as the fuel overflows the front filter I tighten it. Easy Peasy
I'll second that,,my fuse holder by the pump corroded out,,pump wasn't running for a few days I guess,truck started and ran fine.BTW to whomever thinks FASS is not a flow through. Ive pulled the fuse so it is not working and the truck drove just fine all day. So my experience is that mine is a Flow Thru design.