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What else could you possibly want?
Self Priming! :wink2:

That said, if I were to do mine over Id seriously consider the Kennedy, with two ball valves on either end like on Hook's installation.
 

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@;
They could have at least lied to you, like when the Indian telemarketers claim to be (insert really American sounding name here) calling from (Well known large American City)
When they say their from Windows that I have a warranty refund, I play along for several minutes then I tell them that I’ve kept them on the phone long enough to trace the call that my colleagues will be their in less than 30 seconds.
I’ll hear a F U then the phone goes dead. >:)

If the call is from the IRS, I say what a coincidence I work for the IRS, :surprise: another F U then the call goes dead. >:)

Locally we get calls several times a week from the same guy always calling for different organizations every time, calls me by name saying he’s taking donations, I just hang up.
He hasn’t accepted the fact that we know he’s a scammer.
 

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I wouldn’t put a FASS on a lawnmower, I had problems out of mine and they were no help. It’s supposed to be where if the pump quits, it will still suck fuel through it, not on mine, left me stranded in BFE Canada. Go with either a Airdog or a Fuelab.
If the fuel lines are getting weak that can happen no matter what pump you have .
 

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I have searched but keep finding conflicting info and no real solid answers.

I am very likely purchasing a 15 LML on Monday. Will be ordering a lift pump before I even leave the dealer.

I have decided to go with Fass, so that takes the debate out of things haha.

But my area of conflict is what size. I'm stuck between the 95 and the 165. I see that is you run too large of a pump then you can have issues with it pushing fuel over the relief valve which is not good.

My plans for the truck are to get it on a weight loss program and some mild tunes. Nothing wild, just basically optimized stock tune.

So my question is, is the 95 GPH enough for my needs? Or will the 165 work fine even on an otherwise stock truck?

Thank you and I appreciate any input.


the smallest size they make is the one you need.
 

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No you would place the factory skid plate back over the fuel tank. That is just showing the routing.
What protects the LP and filters, certainly not the driveline a couple inches away.
That was a pretty lame location for the LP install, hopefully for your sake you don't install everything the way he did.'uhNo
Its obvious your going this route no matter what anyone suggests, best of luck.
Above the bottom of the frame and far away from the driveline.
 

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Self Priming! :wink2:

That said, if I were to do mine over Id seriously consider the Kennedy, with two ball valves on either end like on Hook's installation.
If your concerned about changing filters there is a easy way with no spillage other than what's in the filters without ball valves.
Get your tank down to about 1/4, drive the front on blocks 6"blocks works, loosen the fuel cap to release the possible pressure, change the filters.
I prefill mine with fresh fuel, that fuel will get filtered when it hits the engine.
Cycle the key off and on (not starting the engine) several times listening to your pump, and the flow thru your return with the cap still off.
You might not have to prime the stock filter, I haven't had to yet, tighten the fuel cap then start your engines. :thumb
 

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If your concerned about changing filters there is a easy way with no spillage other than what's in the filters without ball valves.
Get your tank down to about 1/4, drive the front on blocks 6"blocks works, loosen the fuel cap to release the possible pressure, change the filters.
I prefill mine with fresh fuel, that fuel will get filtered when it hits the engine.
Cycle the key off and on (not starting the engine) several times listening to your pump, and the flow thru your return with the cap still off.
You might not have to prime the stock filter, I haven't had to yet, tighten the fuel cap then start your engines. :thumb
Mine is self priming. When I change the filters I tighten the WS/Filter and leave the FF 1/2 turn loose.

Turn on the key and as soon as the fuel overflows the front filter I tighten it. Easy Peasy

You can tell when the WS is full because the sound changes as soon as the fuel gets to the pump gears.

BTW to whomever thinks FASS is not a flow through. Ive pulled the fuse so it is not working and the truck drove just fine all day. So my experience is that mine is a Flow Thru design.
 

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If the fuel lines are getting weak that can happen no matter what pump you have .
It wasn’t the fuel lines, whatever came apart in the pump stopped it up dead. As soon as I got the tools to unhook the FASS lines and put the factory lines back to the tank and then bleed the system, it started right up and made it the last 1000 miles to Alaska for me. I don’t know what broke bad enough to stop it from pulling fuel through it, but it did.
 

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Mine is self priming. When I change the filters I tighten the WS/Filter and leave the FF 1/2 turn loose.

Turn on the key and as soon as the fuel overflows the front filter I tighten it. Easy Peasy
What I’m suggesting is you don’t have to leave the filter loose allowing fuel to overflow, less mess and no loosing more fuel than what was in the filters before changing.
Another bonus is NO loss of fuel syphoning out while your swapping out the fuel filters.
Even easier Peasy :wink2:

BTW I’m pretty sure all of them are self priming.
At least maybe some of the less experienced people might be interested in how to without loosing fuel w/o having a shutoff valve.

I’ve shut mine off for days and my truck still ran, but it’s possible if it broke in the closed position a person might have issues.'dunno;
 

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Seems when I was looking into this a company has come out with a drop in lift pump. That way you don't have anything else external to install. Any experience with these?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Seems when I was looking into this a company has come out with a drop in lift pump. That way you don't have anything else external to install. Any experience with these?

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Are you referring to fleece?
 

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After changing my in-tank fuel pump on my MH last week, I don’t think I would ever consider doing that, unless it’s the only option like it is with the newer Dmaxs.
In fact I was considering going with a high output external but the in-tank was dead and not allowing fuel to be supplied to the engine so it needed to be removed.
 

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BTW to whomever thinks FASS is not a flow through. Ive pulled the fuse so it is not working and the truck drove just fine all day. So my experience is that mine is a Flow Thru design.
I'll second that,,my fuse holder by the pump corroded out,,pump wasn't running for a few days I guess,truck started and ran fine.
 

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It wasn’t the fuel lines, whatever came apart in the pump stopped it up dead....
Your case isn't rare. Many have posted the same thing.
 

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I use to think the same, working and loosing power would be the same as if it breaks.
Not so much anymore, I figure you have a 50-50 chance that if it breaks while in the closed position pulling fuel, possibly ending the chance of the flow thru idea.

A simple way to know that you have power to your LP and it’s running, tap into the power for a LED light.
Green - is when the LP is on and running
Amber - is a 5 psi low warning that’s connected directly to the LP, that just quickly flickers at start up, if it stays on then either the tank is low not pulling fuel or the LP filters need changing.
 

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I have had the Airdog !! 100 on my 2015 3500HD for almost 3 years now with no issues at all. I hear a slight whirring noise when the key is moved to "On" but not any time else. I've changed out the filters once. A good deal and the fuel lines hook up to existing nipples and fuel line ends. I mounted the pump to the piece of steel plate that hangs in front of the tank, so they are well protected. I would buy another Airdog. BTW, I'm running PPEI tune that ups my HP by up to 180 more. 180 smokes, but the 150 tune doesn't and the AirDog seems to push enough fuel for that. Sorry the photo isn't very detailed.
 

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95gpm way enough. The 165 is for 1k racing. And as far as the noise, I can barely hear mine even standing outside of the truck 3 ft away
 
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