[Durtynuby]

Hi I am new to the forum and new to diesel trucks. I just bout a 2003 Silverado and would like to add a lift pump. I see tons of threads with tons of suggestions but I still would like some input. This is what I want.
1. I want a lift pump that does not require a sump.
2. I want a lift pump that dies not have 1/4 tank issues.
3. I want a lift pump that has filters.
4. I would like a set up that is easy to install and maintain ( I know that is subjective.)

It seems like there are tons of opinions. I plan on keeping this truck with a 100% stock tune. This is being done to protect injectors and CP3. I want this truck to be as dependable as possible. Thanks for your help.

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/diy-tech-discussion/806281-my-lift-pump-kit.html
:howdy

 

[Durtynuby]

Thank you for your reply. It is so hard to tell what to use. And being 100% new to this it makes it really confusing. I was looking at the Kennedy setup and then I read posts saying they are cheap aquarium pumps then they say AD or FASS or nothing then I read they all have 1/4 tank issues and all install sumps and its still an issue. I think I am liking the Kennedy setup. I may just have to stop reading. I know I don't want to drill any holes in my tank call me a wimp but that does not sound right for a DD. JK sent me a email kind of explaining how his setup works. I like the fact it is low pressure and good volume. Thanks again.

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

I read posts saying they are cheap aquarium pumps

Haters, justifying their spending 2-3x on a fire hydrant pump.

Cheap? Meh.
I've bought pumps for the goldfish that were 10% of the JK pump.

It IS....a magnetically coupled (no bearing to wear) centrifugal pump.
The design is used the world over in a variety of applications/industries....because it runs forever, problem free.

And....it's also what is used for a cheap aquarium, because it's reliable and runs trouble free for years, not killing your fish while you're away.

Your goal with adding a LP, is for positive pressure moving forward. The CP is looking for volume, not psi.
A small pump plumbed in to the supply line is all that's needed.
Add a small aux filter head pre-pump, for a FWS filter, and you're GTG.

 

[Durtynuby]

Let me see if I have your set up correct. You are coming from the tank to the water filter, out of the water filter to the sediment filter out of the sediment filter to your OEM filter? What is the purpose of the oil PSI switch? Sorry to pick your brain but I 100% want to do this right. I'm not the kind of guy who just does stuff. I will plan this out as much as possible to make sure things go correctly.

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

In my kit DIY, the flow is FWS -> PUMP -> Secondary particulate filter -> Tertiary stock filter.
I only service the 1st two, if they're doing their job, the 3rd (stock) should never get full.

But you don't need 3 filters.
A FWS before the LP, makes your stock filter now a secondary filter. The 1st will take care of any water and filter any big stuff (10µm), extending the life of the stock filter up front.

You'll have clean fuel, water free and a positive pressure pushing forward (eliminating any potential vacuum leaks along the way). And, under psi, the stock filter will utilize the full media area, instead of the void left under vacuum.
Which will also help to extend the life further.

When you order the JK deluxe kit, it comes with a mounting plate suitable to pair up two pumps on the same mount. Since you only need a single pump, that open space on the nice SS pump mount is the perfect spot to add an aux fuel filter head.

I modified the SS mount, extending it's length, for the 2nd filter mount.
More $$ for that mod, but it allows me easy access in changing both (and not messing with the stock filter), for 'bout $28/set. (which is about the price of a new TP3018 stock filter alone)

But the single filter add is perfectly fine and much easier to do, at less $$ in parts and SS welding.

 

[NHfireDmax]

I had the FASS installed on my 2013. noisy but functional with filter and water separator . And yeah, I ran it dry once but was less than 1/8 tank... so be smart...

Also it gelled up last winter in a cold snap, so I added the heater but never installed it before I sold the truck...

 

[AaronOregon]

I've had this kit on three trucks now. Has been flawless and rock solid.

Duramax Fuel Filter Kit

 

[68Ss]

I've had this kit on three trucks now. Has been flawless and rock solid.

Duramax Fuel Filter Kit

Do you add any shut offs for filter changes or use the kit as is? Looks pretty straight forward.

 

[Ron Nielson]

Do you add any shut offs for filter changes or use the kit as is? Looks pretty straight forward.

DEFINITELY add fuel shutoffs to both sides.

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

I've had this kit on three trucks now. Has been flawless and rock solid.

I don't care for their 'fibs' about filtration, in an attempt to sell their product. :|
Sell it on what it is and does. Not on pushing fear of the stock filter's (wrong) specs.

And, not a fan of spicing into the hard lines for the LP, although it does save time/agony in not having to mess with the connection back up at the tank.

Removing the flex line from the fuel module, down to the start of the hard line forward, does away with a common leak source, sucking air on an aged fuel system.

Most LP kits do away with that (prone to leak) flex quick connect line, and in the process, solve an issue that made the owner want to add a LP in the 1st place.

 

[Toolbox58]

In my kit DIY, the flow is FWS -> PUMP -> Secondary particulate filter -> Tertiary stock filter.
I only service the 1st two, if they're doing their job, the 3rd (stock) should never get full.

But you don't need 3 filters.
A FWS before the LP, makes your stock filter now a secondary filter. The 1st will take care of any water and filter any big stuff (10µm), extending the life of the stock filter up front.

You'll have clean fuel, water free and a positive pressure pushing forward (eliminating any potential vacuum leaks along the way). And, under psi, the stock filter will utilize the full media area, instead of the void left under vacuum.
Which will also help to extend the life further.

When you order the JK deluxe kit, it comes with a mounting plate suitable to pair up two pumps on the same mount. Since you only need a single pump, that open space on the nice SS pump mount is the perfect spot to add an aux fuel filter head.

I modified the SS mount, extending it's length, for the 2nd filter mount.
More $$ for that mod, but it allows me easy access in changing both (and not messing with the stock filter), for 'bout $28/set. (which is about the price of a new TP3018 stock filter alone)

But the single filter add is perfectly fine and much easier to do, at less $$ in parts and SS welding.

Have to agree 100%. I’ve ran the single Kennedy lift pump on my 2007, since about 10,000 miles. My truck has almost 200,000 miles on it now. It’s ran flawlessly along with an auxiliary CAT filter. Couldn’t say enough good things about it. Just ordered one for my 2015.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[AaronOregon]

I don't care for their 'fibs' about filtration, in an attempt to sell their product. :|
Sell it on what it is and does. Not on pushing fear of the stock filter's (wrong) specs.

Don't really care what you think about it. You can have your opinion like everyone else. I was just simply stating that I've had it on three trucks and it flat out works. It's also $300 cheaper than Fass or Airdog.

 

[AaronOregon]

Do you add any shut offs for filter changes or use the kit as is? Looks pretty straight forward.

Don't need them. I just pinch off the rear line when changing filters. Takes all of 60 seconds to change filters.

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

Don't really care what you think about it. You can have your opinion like everyone else. I was just simply stating that I've had it on three trucks and it flat out works. It's also $300 cheaper than Fass or Airdog.

And you're entitled to your opinion too.
Just reel in the bitchy a bit. oke[1]:

It uses the same (long life) pump design as the JK, with two added Baldwin FB1311 filter mounts.
They've been around for a while, making improvements (most likely from my input) to the kit along the way.
The price is good for what it includes. Although, as a 'kit', I don't think it's inclusive of everything needed for a complete install.

Things that the JK Deluxe kit has included for the install, but could also be obtained easily if the OP wanted to assemble his own kit (see post 2) and save $$.

Buyers venturing in to adding a LP on their HD, fall into mostly two categories;
1. Preemptive maintenance to protect what they have and hopefully increase longevity of their truck. (OP's desire)

2. They're chasing a fuel supply problem and looking for a remedy.
This ^ too falls into the OP's 4 stated goals for a LP choice.
Future Maintenance.

One of the 6 things that can cause or contribute to the dreaded P0087 FUEL LIMP, is the aforementioned supply line at the tank.
Another is it's twin at the front of the hard line (the added positive pressure with the added LP can help to rule it out as a collapse point).

After a LP install (that involves replacing that feed line), the reviews light up the 5-star ratings, as the 'fix' to their years long dilemma of a fuel limp when pulling their load.

When many times, it was replacing that line that was the fix.
The LP was just an added bonus.

Don't need them. I just pinch off the rear line when changing filters. Takes all of 60 seconds to change filters.

C'mon now.....a mini ball valve is only $9. :teehee

60 second claim....that's pushin' it a bit don't ya think?
90 is closer. :laugh:

 

[AlisoBob]

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/...scussion/714985-kennedy-pump-install-lml.html

This is my install on a LML, but the basics will work for any Dmax.

You can search this site clear back to page one.... and you'll never find a thread with an issue with a Kennedy pump.

You bolt the thing on... and it's done.

It's the only one to consider.

 

[Durtynuby]

I'm going to drain my oil in the next few days and send it in for analysis to make sure there are no injector issues. I have not drove it enough to see if its making oil. There are no other injector symptoms ie. smoke, hard starts. So I'm going to order a Edge CTS2 (unless someone has better suggestions ) and get the oil checked. From my reading, injector clues are either balance rates, hard starts, smoke or making oil. I would rather have the oil analyzed than drive it and wait to actually see it making oil. I do get a whiff of diesel when I check the oil. I did drive it home about 100 miles and it seems there was no increase but it my not be gushing. I'm also surprised at how the oil looks. Every diesel I have ever seen has BLACK oil instantly but after my trip home this oil looks brand new. I'm worried that the color my be from leaking diesel. Thanks for all the advice so far. I'm in this for the long haul.

 

[Super]

I had the FASS installed on my 2013. noisy but functional with filter and water separator . And yeah, I ran it dry once but was less than 1/8 tank... so be smart...

Also it gelled up last winter in a cold snap, so I added the heater but never installed it before I sold the truck...

I’ve always wondered about the noisy sound, I just hear a little hum at very best, an on other trucks I’ve had a pump on it hasn’t got much louder with a bigger pump, maybe it’s my def ears but a very slight hum isn’t noisy

And the fass probably didn’t gel up on its own sake, put a little additive in there an it works wonders

 

[journeyman291]

Just had a FASS installed on my 07. I have no idea why anyone complains about the noise. Turn the ignition on and I have get out of the truck to barely hear it without the engine running! Get the 95gpm unit and forget it. Go to YOUTUBE or FASS website for some videos.

 

[Big Daddy Yum Yum]

i have the fass it does make a faint hum noise but once you crank the truck you can no longer hear it.