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LLY headgaskets, my progress with pics

134K views 160 replies 35 participants last post by  wh20crazy  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
My LLY headgasket pictures

Since I have yet to find pictures or a how to on doing it, here are photo's as I work on it, pictures to date are 6-7hrs worth of the work today, the hardest part is getting all the crap out of the way to just reach the dang heads. Ive had this truck for 5mo, and it has 130k miles on it. Previous rig I traded in on this was a F150 with a 5.4L gas motor, I had it 10 years, and it had 207K miles and counting, and only need a couple sets of tires, and an alternator in that amount of time............

Anyone know if you have to break the AC system off the firewall? Im pretty sure you may have to to clear the head, I cant even get the aft injector out with it in place. Also on the driver side, does the steering shaft have to come out?
 
#2 ·
You should be able to flex the A.C. lines far enough out of the way that you do not need to break the lines apart.. They will take alot more flexing then most would think..
 
#3 ·
i did just get it out of the way you may be able to get the head off but you already had to decharge the a.c system might as well do it just for the room
 
#4 ·
Why do you have to De-charge the A.C. system?:confused:
 
#5 ·
I didnt decharge the AC system, yet. I dont see how you can get the head off without taking the ac can off the firewall honestly, I cant even get the rear injector out as it hits it too. Any idea's?

And on the driver side, does the steering or brake booster have to come off?

Heading back at it in an hour.
 
#8 ·
I have to pull the rear injector to get the valve cover off, so I said F it and pulled the ac can off the firewall.. The driver side is the side that worries me, not alot of room there. Yes Im putting studs in, and no, Im not going to remove the cab, thats a whole other can of worms Im not interested in, nor do I have the means. Just going to get this job done, then trade it in on something else.
 
#9 ·
If you have a lift and wouldve pulled the cab you would be drinking beers waiting for the ARP studs to stretch. its a lot easier than the mess you deal with when trying to do them with teh cab on. But if you dont have a lift, then its out of the question.

May I ask why spend $650 on studs to push the truck down the road? stock bolts are like $160.
 
#25 ·
Probably a dumb question, but what do you need to do to pull the cab?

What all has be undone?
 
#11 ·
I dont have a lift.

The stock bolts didnt work the first time, why not put some cheap insurance in this time?
 
#12 ·
because your selling it. Its the next guys problem. its 500 bucks you dont need to spend, not to mention a lower resale value for most. A stock truck is worth more than a modded truck in a lot of areas. Not always true though.

The stock bolts do the job fine, its the headgaskets themselves that dont do the job. They changed them in 06
 
#19 ·
some lb7's do it too, my buddies 05' has 100k and its chipped and his hasn't blown yet my blew with 40k on it, its the gaskets that are junk mine was high egt's and heavy towing w/ a chip.
 
#22 ·
Neither did I, granted Ive only had it for 5500 miles, maybe the previous owner seen this coming and unloaded it. Im hoping it starts on fire and burns down so I can get insurance money out of it.
 
#21 ·
I would just pull the engine...you dont need a lift to do that, just a good engine hoist/crane
 
#31 ·
Most of them actually can be, except for the headgaskets obviously. But as long as the gaskets are in good shape and you torque to the proper specs, most can be reused.

Torque spec info for an '06, this the same for an '05? Im having trouble finding a manual, the gm dealer says its all online for them...

LBZ: 06 Fastener Tightening Specifications - Duramax Diesels Forum
The GM dealers torque specs are all online. I have the LB7 specs and Henry Posted the LBZ specs. Most of them appear to be similar to the LB7 so I wouldnt think the LLY would be much different.
 
#30 ·
#32 ·
Ok good to know.

These effin valve cover gaskets are 100 bux each, wow! Im going to have $600 in just gaskets.
 
#34 ·
Ok good to know.

These effin valve cover gaskets are 100 bux each, wow! Im going to have $600 in just gaskets.

Did you mess up the valve cover gaskets? if not reuse them and on the metal shim gasket use some clear sealer. I posted a price on what a kit is for a LLY with studs in the other thread. The specs with the LLY are the same as the LBZ thats why I have not posted it and its also the same for the LMM. I will check and see what they changed in the LML and post those next. We have it down to 3 hrs with the motor on the stand now.
 
#33 ·
you have how many hours to just get to the valve covers. do you really want to reuse the gaskets at this stage in the game. Be a bitch to put it all back together and have a damn oil leak somewhere. Good luck on the job your doin too, looks like a bitch.
 
#35 ·
I know you dont want to hear this but I would put a FPR in there while I am in there that far for $180 and I would also have the injectors bench tested. Its up to you what you want to do but just think if you get it back together and something goes out in 500 miles on you.
 
#36 ·
Might as well take advantage to having everything apart, you won't want to sell the truck when it's all said and done.
 
#37 ·
The metal valve cover gaskets I kinked, they stuck to the valve cover and I didnt notice, or know. I found a lesser expensive kit from S&K from Felpro, its a head kit, meaning no head gaskets, no head bolts, and its $350 for just all the gaskets. Head gaskets with my work discount is $98 each, ARP head studs I got at $580 shipped.

Rascal, where is the FPR at?

I honestly am going to put this thing up for sale as soon as its running, there is just too much to fail on these things, and GM clearly didnt have these things figured out, my buddies '09 cummins would be a cake walk to work on compared to this thing. I dont know, what else do I have to worry about now? Injectors? $$$$$ Trans? $$$$$ Glow plugs? $$$$$


I got the heads off today after work, Ill have pictures tomorrow, BOTH head gaskets were busted, pass side on the rear cylinder, driver side on the front cylinder.
 
#38 ·
The metal valve cover gaskets I kinked, they stuck to the valve cover and I didnt notice, or know. I found a lesser expensive kit from S&K from Felpro, its a head kit, meaning no head gaskets, no head bolts, and its $350 for just all the gaskets. Head gaskets with my work discount is $98 each, ARP head studs I got at $580 shipped.

Rascal, where is the FPR at?

I honestly am going to put this thing up for sale as soon as its running, there is just too much to fail on these things, and GM clearly didnt have these things figured out, my buddies '09 cummins would be a cake walk to work on compared to this thing. I dont know, what else do I have to worry about now? Injectors? $$$$$ Trans? $$$$$ Glow plugs? $$$$$


I got the heads off today after work, Ill have pictures tomorrow, BOTH head gaskets were busted, pass side on the rear cylinder, driver side on the front cylinder.

I sell most the guys a kit with all the o rings and gaskets injectors coppers and o ring, exhaust gaskets manifold gaskets,Gm gray sealer for the intake runners, grade C head gaskets ARP stud and can do the thin lower valve cover gasket shipped at 1180.00 and 1075.00 without the lower valve cover gaskets. I like using all OEM GM gaskets and seals I did not like some of the Felpro gaskets.


That '09 cummins will break parts just as easy and cost just as much to fix.But all there parts sell the same :drink
 
#39 ·
Fuel Pressure regulator. Its in the back of the CP3 pump. If your truck every randomly surged, every, you will want to repleace it now because it is a pain later. And what fipmf666 said they all break, if they designed them to go forever how would they sell you a new 50k dollar truck???