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how does this compare to the kodiac mouth piece? i went with the kodiac back when the lbz was on back order earlier this year. i still wonder how the lbz and the kodiac compare.
 

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thank for them info im waiting on the lbz mouthpiece to get here so i can make the swap hopefully next week
 

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Killerbee, there are very few flowbenches capable of pulling the numbers you describe. They exist within the OEMs, but not many in the aftermarket.

A quick calculation suggests that I would need a bench with at least 45hp to flow at 700 cfm and a deltaP of 4 psig, that's beyond my financial reach.

People often extrapolate the data by multiplying the flow numbers by the square root of the pressure ratio.
Very interesting. I guess it makes some sense now. We have seen up to 40 HP improvement with larger air flow numbers.
 

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I just ordered the IOH kit from KillerBee. I don't have any problems with my truck, but it bothers me the way it is.

I know IAT and restriction are bad as I have a Kenne Bell blower on my mustang. SCT puts out a good book on tuning if your really interested in this kind of stuff.
 

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Here is something interesting that I found with my 04 LLY: I did the whole '06 air filter swap from the GM TSB including reprogramming the ECU but instead of attaching the new filter to the cut LLY mouthpeice, I installed the whole newer intake, most of which I bought used (but brand new delco filter). I cut the inner fenderwell and installed all the rubber seals and pieces mentioned in the TSB. While doing it, I discovered the old air filter sensor is more sensitive than the newer one. With the new filter installed, the old sensor will trigger to the first or sometimes the second step, but the new one won't. I took the cover off the new filter housing and it didn't trigger, so I'm thinking an even larger opening in the fender well. As far as helping stop overheating while towing up a grade, it doesn't help with boosted power.
 

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I thought the filter minders were the same part #, maybe not.

The fender openings will trip the FM into the yellow, if a good seal is made. At 40 lb/min, it will move off green. But the (relatively) small amount of restriction will not make a big dent in induction heat production.
 

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Here's some more info: Old part # 15073765. It has a black background and grey (or maybe dirty white) rubber reset button. New # 15207732. It has a blue background with a blue rubber reset button. Thanks Killerbee... I was wondering about any effect the restriction would have. I hogged out my fenderwell as much as possible to fit the new filter but it doesn't seem to be enough... it still tripped into the "yellow" as you say. The deal with the different filter minders is obvious... by improving the mouthpiece and going with a larger MAF housing (not sure if it was needed) GM, in effect, moved the restriction to the next "weak link"... the available cold air supply to the air filter (an area Killerbee has done such a great job in researching... WOW!). It looks like they covered the problem by simply going with a stiffer filter reminder. I don't have anything better than an old Mightyvac at my shop to test them with, but it appears there is at least a 2 in.hg. difference at the point where the indicater first touches the red. You can also feel the difference just by sucking either one with your mouth.
 

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The older filter minder was typically 15 IWC (inches water column) into red.

Position differences can often be the reason for stiffer springs in filter minders. You will get a different vacuum reading at every location inside an airbox, for example. The oem tends to try to find a site that has negligible dynamic impact, where static pressure is 90% of the influence.

It is not intuitive for most people to see that the minder only gives indications for restrictions (pressure drops) that are upstream. All restrictions on the other side, turbo side, are not picked up. IOW, if you were to relocate the filter minder for the most "informative" and enlightening reading, you would want it nearest the compressor blades as possible in a position that carefully measures only static pressure. This is where a magnehelic becomes most useful. While the FM measures up to 15 IWC, I have pulled 150 IWC near the blades with the magnehelic (stock LLY mouthpiece). There is 28 IWC per psi, so you can do the math.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The restriction indicator is intended to be a diagnostic device for filter health. You can certainly use it in other locations, but that is not what the factory intended.

A properly designed air induction system should produce no more than 10 In-H2O restriction on a naturally aspirated engine, turbocharged engines can tolerate more, but the 10 In-H2O target is still proper for a high output engine. That target is for the entire system up to the throttle or turbo inlet, not just the filter element. 20-25 In-H2O of restriction is the maximum amount of restriction you want across a dirty element, I would change it prior to that, the Filterminder is there in case you forget to service it.

I have no reason to doubt Killerbee's observation of a very high restriction after the stock LLY mouthpiece, the Design Release Engineer for the LLY air induction system should be re-assigned to dipstick calibrations!
 

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Unfortunately, the filter minder also indicates other restrictions, upstream of the element (atmospheric side), where applicable. In the TCAI, for example, half of the reading comes from box openings. It is the cost of IAT dampening in my case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
That's true. Any restrictions upstream of the element should be negligible if possible. I understand that you're also doing thermal management so there is a trade-off with restriction in that case.
 

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I want to do this mod, but not sure if I will. Can you guys look at my sig and tell me if I need to do other upgrades prior. I'm not looking for a 10 second truck and I am not going to stack any tunes either. Is it worth it?
 

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Absolutely worth it, don't wait, do it now. Read the rest of the threads on this mod and you will be convinced if you are not.
 

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I want to do this mod, but not sure if I will. Can you guys look at my sig and tell me if I need to do other upgrades prior. I'm not looking for a 10 second truck and I am not going to stack any tunes either. Is it worth it?
I would think with your mods you want to do it. Others have reported lower EGT temps with the MP.
 

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I would think with your mods you want to do it. Others have reported lower EGT temps with the MP.
Sold!!!! Next on the list. I appreciate your advice.
 

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does any one have the part # for the LBZ mouthpiece and where is the cheapes place to buy it
 
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