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Thanks for being the guinea pig, I mean volunteering your truck for this. Will be interesting to see the numbers on the UOA. Once I get my new truck I'm going to seriously look into this modification and see if it will work on the new L5p's. Hopefully someone will have already tested it out to see.
Just go back to post #129 - I have a 2018 Duramax L5P . . . very simple upgrade and I believe well worth the small cost. You can buy the Donaldson filters for about $26 on Amazon.
 

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In New Hampshire it gets a little cold I have a cat oil filter on the motor lift pump car fuel filter blah blah... bigger oil filter no drain back valve or bypass blah blah I don’t think I have to worry about cold starts?? But it takes 5 seconds or so for the oil pressure gauge to respond.. I don’t drive the truck it sits all week is that something to be concerned with.... I know it’s not crazy cold here... but anything to worry about?
 

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This filter is twice the length as OEM and bigger diameter, it would be pretty risky installing this filter full of oil at the angle it sets on the cast housing.
The idea of a 15 micron oil filter is great, but the risk of having a disaster of possibly breaking off and loosing the engine, isn’t worth it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #167
It would be pretty risky installing this filter full of oil at the angle it sets on the cast housing.
The risk of having a disaster of possibly breaking off and loosing the engine, isn’t worth it for me.
This filter holds 2.5 quarts, and is unacceptable to to you.

The P550832 filter your'e in love with holds 2 quarts, and your totally fine with that, hanging off the same filter mounting pad.....

haha:haha:haha:haha:
 

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Thanks for the work. Now I have one question, does anyone want 6 fleetguard oil filters for the low price of shipping? That way I can change to the Donaldson on my next oil change.
 

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This filter is twice the length as OEM and bigger diameter, it would be pretty risky installing this filter full of oil at the angle it sets on the cast housing.
The idea of a 15 micron oil filter is great, but the risk of having a disaster of possibly breaking off and loosing the engine, isn’t worth it for me.
First off, let me start by saying that i have read things on this forum posted by you and bob that i have agreed with, and things i have not agreed with, so this post is about numbers and not fanboy status.


ok so lets do some math here because clearly no one else is and it shows.


oil has a density of 0.93 g/cm3 this is slightly less then water which is why oil floats on water. Water has a density of 1.00.

The mass of all things in the universe is a function of there density and the volume they occupy. 1 gallon of water weighs what 1 gallon of water weighs regardless of the shape that 1 gallon occupies so long as both gallons are on earth, and both gallons are liquid. Since engine oil is a liquid at any temperature were facing, and we are all hopefully driving on earth (i wonder about a hand full of members some days) mass and weight will be related.

Torque is defined as a force over a distance. If you have a 3' wrench, and you put 10 pounds on it, you are putting 30 ft lbs on whatever is at the center of the wrenches rotation (usually a nut or bolt). I think we are all familiar with this.

To calulate the actual torque of the filled filter on the housing you would use calculus to solve a fomula for the mass of each slice of oil filled filter times the distance from the housing all added together to give you a total torque. This is hard, so instead we will assume that all of the mass of the oil is at the point farthest away from the filter head. This will give us an incorrect value, however it will be incorrect in a way that favors failure as the actual values will be quite a bit less then the way we are about to calculate the load on the filter head.


First we need to know the weight of the oil, for that we need to know the volume of the oil. We will assume the filter is a perfect cylinder, despite the cap being hemispherical again, to make the math nice.

the formula for volume of a cylinder is pi*r^2*h (pi = 3.14) So the radius of the filter squared, times pi, times the height of the filter gives us the volume of the filter.

Lets say the filter is 2.5" in diameter, this is larger then it actually is, but that accounts for the metal being more dense then the oil, again, were heavily favoring the error in this towards the side of making the torque greater then the actual torque applied as safety factor.

I believe it was sad that the height of this filter was 10.7", lets call it a foot.

2.5*2.5*12*pi = 235.5 cubic inches.

1 cubic inch = 16.4 cubic cm

= 3862.2 cubic cm

Mass = volume * density = 3862.2 cm3 * 0.93 g/cm3 = 3591.7 grams

454 grams per pound = 7.91 pounds (again, this value is significantly inflated)

total distance from the head is 12"

torque = force over distance

Torque on head is at an absolute unrealistic maximum of 8 foot pounds.



can we all stop worrying about cracking the bottom of the engine off with an oil filter now?
 

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First off, let me start by saying that i have read things on this forum posted by you and bob that i have agreed with, and things i have not agreed with, so this post is about numbers and not fanboy status.


ok so lets do some math here because clearly no one else is and it shows.


oil has a density of 0.93 g/cm3 this is slightly less then water which is why oil floats on water. Water has a density of 1.00.

The mass of all things in the universe is a function of there density and the volume they occupy. 1 gallon of water weighs what 1 gallon of water weighs regardless of the shape that 1 gallon occupies so long as both gallons are on earth, and both gallons are liquid. Since engine oil is a liquid at any temperature were facing, and we are all hopefully driving on earth (i wonder about a hand full of members some days) mass and weight will be related.

Torque is defined as a force over a distance. If you have a 3' wrench, and you put 10 pounds on it, you are putting 30 ft lbs on whatever is at the center of the wrenches rotation (usually a nut or bolt). I think we are all familiar with this.

To calulate the actual torque of the filled filter on the housing you would use calculus to solve a fomula for the mass of each slice of oil filled filter times the distance from the housing all added together to give you a total torque. This is hard, so instead we will assume that all of the mass of the oil is at the point farthest away from the filter head. This will give us an incorrect value, however it will be incorrect in a way that favors failure as the actual values will be quite a bit less then the way we are about to calculate the load on the filter head.


First we need to know the weight of the oil, for that we need to know the volume of the oil. We will assume the filter is a perfect cylinder, despite the cap being hemispherical again, to make the math nice.

the formula for volume of a cylinder is pi*r^2*h (pi = 3.14) So the radius of the filter squared, times pi, times the height of the filter gives us the volume of the filter.

Lets say the filter is 2.5" in diameter, this is larger then it actually is, but that accounts for the metal being more dense then the oil, again, were heavily favoring the error in this towards the side of making the torque greater then the actual torque applied as safety factor.

I believe it was sad that the height of this filter was 10.7", lets call it a foot.

2.5*2.5*12*pi = 235.5 cubic inches.

1 cubic inch = 16.4 cubic cm

= 3862.2 cubic cm

Mass = volume * density = 3862.2 cm3 * 0.93 g/cm3 = 3591.7 grams

454 grams per pound = 7.91 pounds (again, this value is significantly inflated)

total distance from the head is 12"

torque = force over distance

Torque on head is at an absolute unrealistic maximum of 8 foot pounds.



can we all stop worrying about cracking the bottom of the engine off with an oil filter now?
I think we've found a replacement for Wizard
 

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Oh Hell J83 - you're going to have to redo your math to account for the various ANGLES that these filters can hang at - depending on the year of the engine! LOL Maybe I need to do a SolidWorks 3D model of the various angles and then do some FEA analysis runs and get this solved . . . okay, maybe not.

I think about the LAST thing that is going to break off on my truck is the filter . . . if I manage to somehow break that off, I'm already dead . . . . :)
 

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I think everyone has a limit with some fears having things to large, except for maybe 2 things, 2 on women and one on a man.
That large of a filter my concerns will never change, even the main service dude at Empire CAT thinks its great but he wouldn't install one on his vehicle based on its size and not a fan of changing to a 1" adapter, with the same fears, and they sell both CAT and Donaldson.
But they do have very good filtering, which is always a plus.

I've run the AC Delco PF2232 30 micron for 12 1/2+ years with no problems and I don't expect to have any issues with PF932/P550832 also having 30 micron rating.
 

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we need more microns.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #179
Our "Go to Guy" for any questions regarding Donaldson filtration......

Jeff Braun | Product Support Specialist | Phone: 1-800-374-1374 ext 4555| Fax 952-703-4652 | [email protected]
Engine Systems & Parts | Donaldson Engine Aftermarket Group | 2001 W 94th St | Bloomington, MN 55431 |
www.donaldson.com
 

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another prespective

I think everyone has a limit with some fears having things to large, except for maybe 2 things, 2 on women and one on a man.
That large of a filter my concerns will never change, even the main service dude at Empire CAT thinks its great but he wouldn't install one on his vehicle based on its size and not a fan of changing to a 1" adapter, with the same fears, and they sell both CAT and Donaldson.
But they do have very good filtering, which is always a plus.

I've run the AC Delco PF2232 30 micron for 12 1/2+ years with no problems and I don't expect to have any issues with PF932/P550832 also having 30 micron rating.

Ok this is my first post stating an opinion as I am not a diesel guy by profession or life long owner of diesels but yes of trucks. Just several years for my current truck which is LML thus my presence here. Owning a vintage car service and restoration shop for mainly British and Italian cars I think DRC's perspective is influenced not by physics or mechanical limits but today's "it could fail and we could get sued mentality". The engineering, mechanical leverage, physics and stress points on vintage systems FAR exceeds anything in a modern car. And they are still on the road today. In my experience from 1911 to present. Figuring out the mechanical engineering was brilliant back then with only a concern for reliability. This additional influence with an adopter would be considered a non event. The math is simple, it is safe, regardless of manufacturers claims related to others products or risk. To engineers of the days gone by it was best product and design not whose product and what are others saying.
 
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