First thing I would suggest is getting it towed home or to a shop, then pulling the regulator/fca to see if it’s full of metal. If so, it’s time to dove into the fuel system because of a cp4 failure
That explains why I couldn't find it haha. I read some people have had this problem with aftermarket fuel filters. I currently have a wix filter on and it's past due to be changed so I'm trying that tomorrow. After that I'm calling the mechanic because I don't have the skills for that.Your truck doesn’t have a ficm, it’s controlled by the ecm on your truck
Go here // on edit//TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) for All Years, Makes and ModelsThe only code that stuck around is p128e.
If the primer bulb is hard then it’s not lack of fuel because of the filter. It likely wouldn’t have a hard primer if it was the filter. It’s unusual to have an air leak between the filter head and injection pumpThat explains why I couldn't find it haha. I read some people have had this problem with aftermarket fuel filters. I currently have a wix filter on and it's past due to be changed so I'm trying that tomorrow. After that I'm calling the mechanic because I don't have the skills for that.
When the bleeder broke I pumped it to see if air would come out and I did have bubbles come up. Now the bleeder is replaced and the pump is very soft. I'm trying to find a mobile mechanic here in San Diego that can check it out. But I'm starting to plan for the worst.If the primer bulb is hard then it’s not lack of fuel because of the filter. It likely wouldn’t have a hard primer if it was the filter. It’s unusual to have an air leak between the filter head and injection pump
I did make sure to replace the o-ring the old one broke off with it still attached. I looked at the fuses that were labeled "fuel anything" but beyond that I'm pretty useless knowledge wise. I didn't find anything blown under the hood and I didn't see anything that would controI engine stuff in the cab. I also rotated the two fuel relays to see if that would do anything. I'm replacing the filter tonight then priming for probably 25 minutes if it's anything like when I ran out of fuel. I have a multimeter if you could give me a heads up on where to check I would greatly appreciate it.I hope you replaced the o-ring under the bleeder screw. If it fell out and you didn't know it was there, it may still be missing. Did you do the fuse check you mentioned earlier? Easy to do with a test light and will take less than 15 minutes.
Mobile mechanic, if he has some experience with the Duramax, might be the best thing to do.
It became due last week so I was planning on replacing this week when I had some time. The threads I have looked at make checking the valve look like a pain in the neck. Is there a simple way to remove it without taking all of my coolant lines off? I'm in a parking lot owned by the city and I don't feel like getting a ticket for spillage haha.So once you crank the motor the filter primer will be soft.
I go with the recommendation that the mprop metering valve should be removed and check for any metal debris. If anything is found, well the infamous CP4 saga has come for your truck.
Stretching out the factory filter changes is not a good idea (unless running a lift pump system with additional filters).
Matt is correct BUT... any residual contamination, you get to buy everything twice...Rob is right, more than just a conversion… although if it is done THOROUGHLY, the tank can be cleaned and probably a new sending unit to replace the pickup and level sensor