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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
LMM stalled, no fuel to motor change filter? **update with pics**

2010 LMM
58,000 miles

Changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago, probably few hundred miles at most on truck since the new filter. Racor filter, brand new out of the plastic, bought from a known vendor on the site. I bought two at the same time and used the first one for 20,000 miles before I put the current one on.

Added 20 gallons of fuel into 1/3 full 50 gallon tank a couple days ago. I never buy no name fuel, and bought this last load from a frequently visited BP station. Have a titan tank, installed last year. Added a small bottle of grey bottle diesel kleen, as I usually do on every third fill up.

Drove it all day today, about 100 miles between three different trips to locations, shut off and started up again.

Truck was running fine all day. Was driving down the road, coming home from last trip, had been 30minutes and about 20 miles since it was started, and I lose power like someone disconnected gas pedal, a few seconds later it stalls. DIC says "Change Fuel Filter".

No other warnings, no "water in fuel" or anything like that...

I coast onto side street and crank it. No fire, just cranks and cranks.

I open the bleeder screw and prime it thinking it lost prime for some reason, two pumps and it sprays out the bleeder screw. Close the screw and Crank it over and after a few seconds it starts. Runs for 15 seconds and stalls.

Repeat the pump and it starts again, but this time it runs for 20 seconds and stalls.

I tried the bleed and start again, but nothing. I had it towed back home (fortunately wasnt far from home).

Spoke to mechanic friend who suggested possibly a bad filter? Or maybe I pinched the gasket when I installed it?

If I pinched it, wouldnt I have problems from the first time I tried to start it if it was sucking in air?

I picked up a house brand filter from a local chain auto parts place and will change it in the morning.

Update

So I changed the filter, primed it and after cranking over for about 15 seconds, it fired up and idled fine. I let it idle for about 10 minutes, then took it for a drive. Everything seems fine.

I am going to cut open the old filter and see if I can located the problem, if it was a bunch of crap in the line, or a bad element or something. The gaskets were in place and the filter was still tight when I unscrewed it. The gaskets didnt have any flat spots or cuts. The filter head surface was clean and smooth.

I am hoping I didnt get a load of bad fuel with a bunch of sediment in it or something, but just incase I will be sure to have a spare filter in the truck with me along with enough tools to change it out from now on...

***UPDATE #2***

A day and 10 miles later, the truck stalls again. I open the bleeder and prime the filter. It fires up and I drive it a quarter mile and it stalls again (fortunately his time I was pulling in my driveway).

The DIC says "change filter" like it ithe first time.

I cut open the first filter. This is 2 weeks old and only a few hundred miles.

Inner filter




Outer filter









So is this what a clogged filter looks like? Should it be that black after two weeks and maybe 25 gallons of fuel?

Or is that normal and I have a fuel line collapsing problem?



Thanks for the suggestions, I am going to look into a lift pump, make life easier to change fuel filters if nothing else...
 

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Do you have a lift pump on it? If not you may want to get one. Also check your fuel line going to the fuel filter, it may have a soft spot on it and collapsing the fuel line. Good luck with getting it running.
 

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TSB Buletin Silverado Fuel lines



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:



A dealer may need to perform a repair on the rubber portion of the fuel supply (suction) lines. The rubber section of the line could become kinked or collapse. Fuel lines that kink or collapse may induce a fuel system restriction (high vacuum gauge readings) or DTCs P0087, P0093, and/or P1093 to set.
If a technician was to suspect the rubber portion of the fuel feed line collapsing or kinking, replacement of only the rubber line is acceptable.
Recommendation/Instructions:

Complete the steps below to repair the rubber section of fuel supply line:

Carefully cut, split, and remove the OEM crimp from both ends of the flexible hose. These crimps can be cut with a small cut-off wheel. Split the crimp into two pieces (use your discretion on first cut location, then cut directly across from, or 180 degrees from first cut). Special care must be taken not to damage the flare on the end of the steel pipe that will be reused.
Remove the OEM crimps and flexible portion of hose from the existing supply line.
If replacing the rubber section of the supply line, a 1/2 ID hose meeting SAE specification 100R3 is suggested. Dealers may be able to find a local supplier for this hose, or can contact the manufacturer Parker Hannifin. The replacement hose would be a 1/2" diameter Parker part number 601-8 or H017-8. To find a local distributor the Parker website can be accessed at Parker Engineering Your Success Motion Control Technology
Use worm type hose clamps (use double clamps on each end) to attach the replacement hose to the existing pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Uodate in OP
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update with pics in op
 

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had the same problem, drove me nuts. change the o rings in the fuel filter primer pump. $25, 2 hours. happened to me at 73000 mi. no problem at all after 5000+ mi. told one of my subs to do it who had same issues. no probs since, and he had taken it to the shop before , spend a few hundred $, and it was still not fixed.-- should have sent him a bill

evidently for me, when towing, and it got hot under the hood, o rings lost seal. but around town never got hot enough under hood. it was sporatic.

Hey for $25 o ring kit, a whole lot less expensive and easier than other options. good luck
 

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Yeah I agree with Stuart2 I had same issue and was the damn filter head seals $25 from Autozone and have not looked back.. I also tried Bio in there once and boy did that mess up filter. But that cleared after change.
 

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Bio cleaned your fuel solids sludge throughout the fuel system.
Then the filter did it's job, catching all the crap dissolved loose.

Cleans up your injectors too....and lubricity levels higher than any additive can achieve. It's not a bad thing to run it regularly...regular use won't end the filter life early, as before.
 

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I have no idea what the problem actually is, but I'd bet that a lift pump with additional filtration will solve it. You can make your own to save money, or buy a very nice pre-made setup, makes no difference, just get the lift pump.
 

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I have no idea what the problem actually is, but I'd bet that a lift pump with additional filtration will solve it. You can make your own to save money, or buy a very nice pre-made setup, makes no difference, just get the lift pump.
x2. I bought the FASS 95.

I went one further though. I removed the factory filter base and all its related O Rings. I replaced it with a Nicktane Filter Plate Adapter. This allowed me to install an UHE Cat Filter (306-9199) filter where the factory filter was located. You have to have a lift pump to use this setup though because the Nicktane Plate Adapter has no provision to prime it other than a bleed screw at the top.
 
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