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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for an early to mid 2000 burban. Is there specific year to avoid? What years had the notorious "piston slap" motors? I would not be apposed to the last of the 5.7 vortechs since these were pretty reliable form what I have read so far.. I don't mind high mileage as long as its not 200,000. It needs to be a reliable road capable vehicle. Anyone willing to give me a rundown I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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Only things I've ever had to do outside normal wear on the 5.3 trucks/burbs was rebuild the 4L60E transmissions after 100K-200K miles, replace encoder motors in the 4X4s and replace fuel pumps. Water pumps are almost a guarantee around the 100K mark as well but I kinda consider those normal wear.

I wouldn't worry with the piston slap thing. As much as I hated it, it never came down to something crazy like a rebuild. Just annoying in sound when cold. I know lots of guys that buy high mileage burbs for very cheap and they are great trucks. I wouldn't hesitate after a thorough check of what is needed vs the right price.

Keep the oil changed regularly in a 5.3 and it is very dependable. Not the strongest thing in the world but it'll get stuff done and not bad mpg.
 

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My parents bought one new in 2001. Year 2002. White LT 4x4 W/autoride. I have done all the repairs and maintenance on it.

Water pump/idler/thermostat/belt around 120k miles
Front brakes at like 90k
Diff fluids every 50k
Trans fluid & filter at 100k
Rear brakes at 150k
Passenger front door lock actuator around 150k.
Intake mani fold gaskets around 120k. (Common and there is an updated part)

Other than tires & oil changes, that's it! Been a great truck.




Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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We have an 02 Tahoe which has the same driveline as a burban, and around 45000 miles it started the piston slap, it now has 150000 on it and still going strong. Just annoying when its cold.

Sent from my SPH-D710
 

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If you go a little newer like 06-07 stay away from the first year they did the flex fuel motor I know of four different people in my local area that had nothing but problems with them.
 

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I've got an 01 2500 with the 8.1L that has just shy of 200k and I run it from indiana to Florida constantly Leaving for Miami on Monday in it Love the thing. Would get another one any day of the week
 

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Couldn't see mileage on it but I would jump all over it. Check everything out good like all the usual items. Fuel economy won't be great by any means. Best out of mine is 13 mpg Could always swap a Duramax into it:)
 

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My dad has a 2000 Burban with 320,000 on it. slings a little oil from worn out seals but other then that still fires up and runs great! if needed i would drive it anywhere and not be worried.
 

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The 5.3 are MUCH more reliable then the 5.7 and much more options. I have 200k+ on my gasser and it's running strong.

Water pumps WILL fail, transmission WILL eventually fail, etc... These are just wear components, but it's worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
couldn't see mileage on it but i would jump all over it. Check everything out good like all the usual items. Fuel economy won't be great by any means. Best out of mine is 13 mpg could always swap a duramax into it:)
197,000
 

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The 5.3 are MUCH more reliable then the 5.7 and much more options. I have 200k+ on my gasser and it's running strong.

Water pumps WILL fail, transmission WILL eventually fail, etc... These are just wear components, but it's worth it.
I hear a lot of mixed reviews that the 5.7 TB injection were some of the best, then I hear the 5.7 vortech is the best. I guess a lot of it is opinion. Maybe ill opt for the 5.3 simply due to fuel mileage.
 

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The piston slap is no big deal. The 5.3 uses a guart of oil about every 2000 miles- normal.

The 6.0 is a great motor- more power- uses more fuel.

Avalon
 

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4L60's are good transmissions if treated right. Change the fluid before the fluid gets dirty. Do not shift into reverse when rolling forward or forward when rolling backwards. That is the major killer. Come to complete stop, then shift.

5.3s also like to rev and when pulling trailers, it is easy for the torque convertor to come unlocked and stay unlocked which causes tons of heat. The lack of lowend power also causes the transmission to hunt for gears. A conscious driver that manually downshifts when towing and shifts while stopped will keep these transmissions a non-issue.
 

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I'm looking around for a 2500 suburban, probably a 6.0 but open to suggestions. Since this thread is a few years old I figured id check and see if there is any other advice on what to look out for. Just need a decent family vehicle, that can tow a little something when needed, cars, lumber, nothing too crazy. Reliability would be more important to me. Hopefully it will get an LBZ in the future.
 
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