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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm losing coolant somewhere in the truck I have a 13 lml I deleted my egr so all I have is a blocker plate on intake I have a 5 in straight pipe all the way back and ez lynk I added coolant about two months ago and now I'm back to the same level I was before how do you pressure test these units ? Signs of blown head gaskets ? The truck shows no loss in power or struggling


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Taking the Long Way Home
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Your probably didn't get all the air out after the egr removal, you have to allow for the capacity of coolant lost when you pulled the egr out.
There's a top off procedure which I'll post for you when you static fill after working in the lml coolant system


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Filling Procedure

Caution: The procedure below must be followed. Improper coolant level could result in a low or high coolant level condition, causing engine damage.

Note: If a complete engine block was drained, the recommended fill is by (Vac-N-Fill).



Note: Use a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL antifreeze and clean, drinkable water.

Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture.

Note: Do not let the coolant level go above the seam in the bottle until step 13.

Slowly continue filling as the level goes down.
Note: The cap remains off until step 15.

With radiator cap off, start the engine.

Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Engine should reach an operating temperature of 90°C (194°F) and the upper radiator hose should be HOT.

Continue to run the engine at 2,000-2,500 for 5 more minutes.

Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes, as you slowly add more coolant to the system.

Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 rpm for another 5 minutes.

With the engine in idle, add more coolant until it reaches the top of the bottle.

Slowly continue to add coolant so it goes into the overflow side of the bottle until it reaches 1/3 of the capacity.

Install radiator cap.

Run the engine at 2500 rpm for 3 minutes.

Shut off engine and remove key.



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Discussion Starter #4
Hopefully this works lol I mean like I said the truck isn't acting up what so ever I'm just losing it somewhere


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I seriously doubt you popped a head gasket, if you did, for one your coolant tank would overflow from the pressure while driving, the radiator hose would stay like a rock when cold.
If you smell a hint of a freeze , then look at the radiator tank on the passenger side for any weepage.

Look at the block heater, and above the starter on the block by the bell housing is a known spot to seep.
Check the heater core hoses and the supply and return to the turbo, those are your only leak points that re accessible, others include freeze out plugs, and worse case leaking head gasket outside of the cylinder wall, the latter is highly unlikely.


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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I really could t find a leak I refilled it running normal operating temp this was after a drive just like 5 min ago I filled it just like the instructions said but I got this



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It's worth a try but I chased loosing coolant for a year before I found it slowly weaping from my water pump. 22k on a 2015.
 

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I really could t find a leak I refilled it running normal operating temp this was after a drive just like 5 min ago I filled it just like the instructions said but I got this



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What's wrong that's fine, both sides are not supposed to be full .


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Discussion Starter #9
Well the fender side is completely empty and the engine side is way over the line


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The left side of the tank is called the surge tank, when your coolant pressure goes over 20 psi the excess pressure surges to the left side.
The right side stays like that or a tad lower and the left over in the left side is reclaimed by the system.



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Idk man maybe I'm crying over spilled milk lol


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It's not crying over spilt milk, it's called being cautious over your 60k truck


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I didn't realize it was the cap that controlled left to right flow based on pressure. I thought an overpressure scenario was just vented to ambient, but of course your explanation makes more sense.
 

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Ok does anyone know of a pressure testing kit for these units ?


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Cost ya a Washington and some change, Stanton makes a kit, then you'll need the adapter.


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Fwiw... I just tightened me lower rad hose where it goes into the engine.i think???(hopefully)!!!!. I found mine.it is also a 13 LML..

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I have a 2011 lml Duramax diesel with a low coolant light I fill the coolant bottle full and drive it for a day and then The coolant light comes on again coolant bottle is low can anybody help
 

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I have 2011 I've changed lower radiator hose, thermostats ,surge tank ,cap still chasing same problem losing water truck runs great temperature guage goes up to 240 first thing in the morning then runs 210 all day now heater will not blow hot any idea's help needed
 
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