Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this months Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my truck about 9 years and have had the lower oil pan replaced several times. Its an 08, LMM 70K miles.
Oil pan gasket was replaced in 2012 by the original owner under warranty prior to me picking the truck up in another state, got home, it started leaking already. Local dealer replaced it under warranty, saying what a terrible job the other dealer did. Around 2016 it started to leak again, took it to a local diesel shop and they did it for me. Left it 2 days for them. Next year, started leaking again, would not warranty it because it was 16 months old, but only 1500 miles had been driven. So this year I decided to do it myself. I'm not the best mechanic, but figured I'd try. Dropped the pan, cleaned it really good, used AcDelco sealant, followed the proper torque specs and sequence. Cant say who did it, but one of the locating bolts pulled completely out with 1 turn of the wrench. Had to tap it with a US thread, but wast' leaking from that side. Truck sat for 2 weeks before I put oil in it, its stored in winters. Re arranged my garage, moved truck back into normal parking space, nothing showing. Drove it 35 miles yesterday and noticed a drip on my floor. I cannot see anywhere its leaking from. I took the flashlight and flipped it over so the light would shine directly where the drip came from.

I've read a lot of threads. Hoping its not the rear main, but location seems off and very small amount. Also saw a lot about the turbo return line? Leaking EGR plate, or possible valve cover gasket. I did see 1 thread that the dealer replaced the whole pan under warranty. That might be my next step, a PPE pan but not sure. Looking to see what others have experienced. Any input is appreciated.
1086573
1086574
1086575
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,370 Posts
I cannot see anywhere its leaking from. I took the flashlight and flipped it over so the light would shine directly where the drip came from.
It is critical that you find the actual leak before determining what the fix is. The pictures look pretty clean, nothing obvious, but you already know what. Keep in mind that those drips can often be from above the bottom of the engine, even on the top somewhere. Keep looking until you find the source of the drip.
 

·
Registered
2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
Joined
·
786 Posts
Cannot tell from photo exactly where the drop is from... I can't make out another 'drip' happening... but.... that oil is VERY dark for having just been changed... If it is a rear seal, there will be buildup which fresh oil can mix with as it runs down inside the bell housing... and you may have larger drops...

So, my $ is on the EGR stuff...

Thankfully your concrete is sealed... easy to wipe up..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
So, my $ is on the EGR stuff...
How would a drop of oil like that be made from something having gone through the combustion cycle? (i am assuming its not the coolant given that the OP stated he changed the oil pan gasket himself. I assume if you can do that, you can identify what is oil vs water/coolant).
 

·
Registered
2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
Joined
·
786 Posts
I'm not all knowing so i wont rule it out but the EGR is exhaust gas and coolant at the cooler. How would a drop of oil like that be made from something having gone through the combustion cycle? (i am assuming its not the coolant given that the OP stated he changed the oil pan gasket himself. I assume if you can do that, you can identify what is oil vs water/coolant).
If the engine was deleted, there could be a leak in that area or from rerouted hoses... such as PCV... even tho it looks like this truck has been very well cared for, I would start with the hoses.. which leads back to the EGR delete where things might not be sealing up very well. It is just a SWAG...
 

·
Registered
2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
Joined
·
786 Posts
When oil is blown all over, it is a good idea to clean up the engine very well. There is good stuff on the market these days...

Drive over to your local car wash... let the truck cool down well. Like go to lunch nearby and let it cool then drive a block or two to the car wash. Let it cool some more.. then apply the cleaner as directed.

Rinse really well. Drive really slow for a mile or so and reheck. Repeat.

But, looking really close at the pics on a bigger screen, if the oil is coming out of that small hole in the bellhousing by the engine, that is not the oil pan. That is engine or Transmission fluid. My guess would be engine due to the color.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,736 Posts
Quick way to check if its the rear main is to open the inspection plate on the bell housing and sweep your finger around. Should be dry as a popcorn fart. It would be puking oil out there if that seal was gone though i would think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi everyone, thanks for all the replys. Been away for a few days and haven't had time to look at anything. I'm certain its engine oil, it does not appear any coolant or any other fluids are in it. I do have a EGR blocker and a PCV re route. The pcv reroute drips oil once ever month and its thick oil. I ran some errands today and parked it, less than an hour later I saw the drip. I was able to get a photo of the drip, it still appears to be the oil pan. I'm at a loss... Part of me thinks there could be something wrong with the oil pan. I wonder when it was done at the dealer that did a bad job, if then damaged it somehow. But in all reality, that AcDelco sealant I used would have sealed up and dent or groove they could have made. I'm gonna have to check my reroute hoses and see. If I cant find anything I'll take it to the car wash and spend some time there.

1086880


Side note "Thankfully your concrete is sealed... easy to wipe up.." worth it, but expensive, had it professionally done with a clear coat. I did the DIY kit from HD on my old garage floor 15 years ago, held up great, was the last year they sold the actually epoxy for consumers. My brother did his garage with the same stuff but the new "safer" formula, followed the instructions and prep to a tee, lasted a year and looks like garbage. Will never do DIY epoxy again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
I think Cfell has the answer. Look along the inside of the right valve cover, take some paper towel and stuff it down hard with a screw driver, then pull it out and see if it has that very black oil on it. If it has, that black oil it coming from the EGR valve.
 

·
Registered
2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
Joined
·
786 Posts
Hi everyone, thanks for all the replys. Been away for a few days and haven't had time to look at anything. I'm certain its engine oil, it does not appear any coolant or any other fluids are in it. I do have a EGR blocker and a PCV re route. The pcv reroute drips oil once ever month and its thick oil. I ran some errands today and parked it, less than an hour later I saw the drip. I was able to get a photo of the drip, it still appears to be the oil pan. I'm at a loss... Part of me thinks there could be something wrong with the oil pan. I wonder when it was done at the dealer that did a bad job, if then damaged it somehow. But in all reality, that AcDelco sealant I used would have sealed up and dent or groove they could have made. I'm gonna have to check my reroute hoses and see. If I cant find anything I'll take it to the car wash and spend some time there.

View attachment 1086880

Side note "Thankfully your concrete is sealed... easy to wipe up.." worth it, but expensive, had it professionally done with a clear coat. I did the DIY kit from HD on my old garage floor 15 years ago, held up great, was the last year they sold the actually epoxy for consumers. My brother did his garage with the same stuff but the new "safer" formula, followed the instructions and prep to a tee, lasted a year and looks like garbage. Will never do DIY epoxy again.
looks like engine oil. From the pic it looks like the pan is warped... perhaps was overtightened. ...sorry about that...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Weather here in MI really has been cold. Still putting this on the back burner. Stupid question, but if it was the oil pan would it constantly drip. Haven't drove it in a week and its dry under there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, back at it again. The leak is getting worse. Trying to get this fixed soon. I bought some oil dye and black like on Amazon, actually worked really well. Only driven about 20 miles but already seeing dye. I looked at every angle and it appears its only coming from the pan. There is no sign its coming from above. I took some pictures, a little hard to see, but you can see the green lines where oil is. Not sure how its leaking. Almost looks like its leaking out of the pan between the paint and raw steel. Anyone ever heard of a defective pan? Thinking about going with the PPE pan and AC Delco sealant again, just expensive pan for nothing to see.
1088410
1088411
1088412
 

·
Registered
2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
Joined
·
786 Posts
How tight are the bolts? That looks like a pinched gasket.. where then tightening the gasket grabs the bolt and wrinkles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I tightened them to spec with a torque wrench. Pretty sure it was 90 in pounds. There is no gasket, even from the factory. That's the OEM recommend AC Delco sealant.
 

·
Registered
2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
Joined
·
786 Posts
Did it leak in same place? I don’t recall….

clean the area well and apply JB Weld over the whole area…? Or smear more of the special sealant over the area?

also… are you sure you aren’t building crankcase pressure?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,370 Posts
You always must make the area where you are applying the gasket maker to be ABSOLUTELY CLEAN, and preferably dressed before the final clean with some fine sandpaper or wire brush. You really can't get the pieces too clean. When I use a gasket maker/sealant, after applying the gasket maker, I let the gasket maker firm up for about 30 minutes or so. Then I tighten the bolts maybe finger pressure, just enough to push the gasket maker into any voids, make sure there is a little coming out everywhere, but I don't tighten to torque spec for another 30 minutes. Said another way, I take my time. If you put full pressure on the sealant, I think it makes it squish out too much and in the end, you fail to get a good, leak-free seal. Nothing scientific about my way, no one ever said to do it this way to me, it's just the way I do it and I've never had a leak. I know that Chevy engines the front by the timing chain is a place that is very hard to get them to seal, but they will seal if you do it this way.

You may have to spend some time under your truck when your engine is hot to find the source of the leak. I've done that a few times, but eventually it works. Another poster said he uses baby powder dusted in the area he suspects. When the oil leaks and drips it takes the baby powder with it and you can see the trail. I would think this is what you might try.
 

·
Registered
2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
Joined
·
786 Posts
You always must make the area where you are applying the gasket maker to be ABSOLUTELY CLEAN, and preferably dressed before the final clean with some fine sandpaper or wire brush. You really can't get the pieces too clean. When I use a gasket maker/sealant, after applying the gasket maker, I let the gasket maker firm up for about 30 minutes or so. Then I tighten the bolts maybe finger pressure, just enough to push the gasket maker into any voids, make sure there is a little coming out everywhere, but I don't tighten to torque spec for another 30 minutes. Said another way, I take my time. If you put full pressure on the sealant, I think it makes it squish out too much and in the end, you fail to get a good, leak-free seal. Nothing scientific about my way, no one ever said to do it this way to me, it's just the way I do it and I've never had a leak. I know that Chevy engines the front by the timing chain is a place that is very hard to get them to seal, but they will seal if you do it this way.

You may have to spend some time under your truck when your engine is hot to find the source of the leak. I've done that a few times, but eventually it works. Another poster said he uses baby powder dusted in the area he suspects. When the oil leaks and drips it takes the baby powder with it and you can see the trail. I would think this is what you might try.
awesome points!
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top